Central locking issue.

When we first got our Discovery the central locking worked fine, the only issue being that the drivers door key barrel appears to be u/s.
Unfortunately now the drivers door won't lock using the key fob so the alarm sounds if you try and lock it.
If you're sitting inside and manually lock and unlock the door all the other locks lock and unlock as expected.
Any ideas as I don't really want to be leaving it unlocked overnight.

Crystal time again unless u can tell us exactly what is happening.

What system do u have ? as the D1 has two depending on model year.
You are u saying the drivers doesn't lock with the fob, so the others do then?
Is the locking actuator moving, is the door pin going down and then rising (bouncing) back up?

N reg D1 with the two button fob.
The other doors all lock with the door pins going down when using the fob, the drivers door refuses to do so.
I'll have to check the bouncing thing as problem only flared up this morning for my wife.

I'm guessing the door actuator isn't working from the fob, if so is it a pain to replace and is there anything else with the same part?

U maybe in luck and the only issue is a slight adjustment required of the actuator.

So remove the door card slightly slacken the four screws on the mounting plate and move the plate one way or the other to readjust, only a few millimetres required its a fine line between working and not working, use your fob each time (lock-unlock) in between moving the plate until u to get it right.

Or just a bit of lube to the lock or operating rods.

Thanks for that, I'll try that when I get home.
Hopefully it just needs some tlc. The first time it happened I got my wife to operate the door lock using the lock pin inside and then locking it with the fob afterwards worked.
Unfortunately the next time it didn't work.

Even if it is the actuator, these are easy to switch over - I changed all of mine over a few years ago, and keep a couple spare in the garage - just in case....these are what I get....

2 x 2 Wire Door Motor Solenoid Central locking motor | eBay

Marvellous, for that price I might just get a couple just in case even if I can get it working.

Drivers door is the Master the others are the Slaves

Can't remember if I just used the normal 2 wire for my drives and just spliced it into the loom to save buying a master one???

Annoyingly just got home and it works fine. I'll have a look on Saturday when I have a bit more time.

StuRox said:

Can't remember if I just used the normal 2 wire for my drives and just spliced it into the loom to save buying a master one???

Click to expand...

For the 300 series there's a micro switch in the master-actuator and has 5 wires so supplies the alternate lock unlock pulses to the slaves.

must of fitted a master one then

natdawson said:

Annoyingly just got home and it works fine. I'll have a look on Saturday when I have a bit more time.

Click to expand...

Typical Land Rover

I had my rear passenger door doing the same thing, so all I did is stick the WD40s spray tube down the side of the door pin and gave what ever was below a splash, it's been ok ever since, must be 4 or 5 years ago now

I had to adjust the my disco drivers actuator once that must have be 10 years or more ago, and same with my old RR, that was before Forums, so how did I found out what was wrong just remove the door card and look-see, always the best way... simples .

Before trying all the above,squirt some wd40 down inside the lock from the push button thingy on top of the door. Keep spraying untill it starts dripping out the bottom of the door. Do all of them.

Ok for now I'll spray a load of WD-40 in as suggested and hopefully that might be enough to sort it out.
Once I source a new barrel lock and key for the drivers door I'll have a proper poke around as I'll be taking the door card off then anyway.

Thanks for your help chaps.

The plot thickens, well sort of anyway. I've noticed that the rear door pin bounces when using the fob to lock it, it's fine if you lock it manually though.
Is this a case of needing some adjustment or wd-40 or does it need something more than that?

Bounces as in when locked via the fob the pin drops to lock but promptly rises to unlock?
If so adjustment of the actuator mounting plate is all that's required.

The key has a direct contact with the lock that's why it still works, your lucky as the barrels can seize due to lack of use.

Lucky my CL is ok as my back door key only goes in half way so never ever been able to lock with the key, the lock barrel maybe wrong and doesn't match the key profile who knows, I should have taken it back when I had the chance

Yep goes down then pops back up again. Bizarrely the passenger door barrel is fine, rear door a bit rubbish but the drivers door is totally seized up if I use the key, I would have thought that would be the best one of the lot.
I should be getting a replacement barrel in a day or two so I'll go round then and adjust any that bounce.