Castor corrected arms

Just a quick question. I have a 300 disco and it now has a 4" lift with the standard front arms. As you can imagine the steering is massively vague and it drives poo. Another problem I've noticed is the front springs are twisting. I intend on fitting castor corrected arms i'm just looking for advice on whether I should get 3 or 6 degree ones?

Cheers for any help.

google is your friend, usually anything over 3" is 6 degrees and upto 3" is 3 degrees,

Paulmitchell1984 said:

google is your friend, usually anything over 3" is 6 degrees and upto 3" is 3 degrees,

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Cheers, I did try google but it didn't really give me any definitive answers.

6degree

Thanks for the replies guys. What would be the draw backs of putting 3 degree on instead of 6? My reason being I don't really want an excessive angle on the front prop as I know that can't be too good for it.

Just fit the 6. And then a wide angle prop. You'll need a prop anyways to make it proper. Either that or go backwards and fit 2" lift instead

If you're sure it's 4" the you need 6 degrees of correction really

Although tbh 4" lift is a tad queer, the better option is 2" in the suspension and 2" in the body, thus achieving same clearance but saving the handling and also retaining your droop travel to some extent

If you're early days in the game if say body lift now and then it's over and done with

Never body lifted mine and I'm happy with it because it's nice and low for tight lanes but it is a slight squeeze in the arches with 33s on!

essentially only putting 3deg arms on would be the same as running a 2" lift with standard arms so although better than what you have its a bit of a false economy!

I agree with mr noisy... if you really wanna go 4" then splitting it between suspension and body lift is the way to go but I've done the same and squeezed my tyres under a 2" lift for the tight lanes!

Hmm, I wish I'd asked advice before I did this.

The way I've done it is a 2" suspension lift and 2" spacer blocks underneath. I've done it as correctly as I can, I've put a 200 flange and wide angle prop on the rear, cranked arms, a double carden front prop. The reason is partly because I like the lifted look and partly for clearance, I'm running 285/75/16 special tracks.

I'll get the 6 degree ones and see how it goes.

If the steering itself is vague, have you checked all of your bushes, steering box, steering column and track rod ends for play?

What do you mean by springs twisting?

The lower spring seats are not parallel to the upper spring seats, due to the lift.

Very surprised you need 4" on 285/75/16

I'm on 33x13.5x15 and just squeezing in on a 2.5ish" lift only.

More cutting required and lower the suspension IMHO.

Boris113 said:

If the steering itself is vague, have you checked all of your bushes, steering box, steering column and track rod ends for play?

What do you mean by springs twisting?

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I have checked pretty much everything, it drove perfectly before I started buggering with it . I've replaced pretty much every bush I've taken off with either standard (arm's to chassis) or poly (axle ends).

And the spring twisting is exactly what the man below describes, as the seats no longer sit correct in relation to the upper parts, however I suspect this'll be corrected with the proper arms.

Mr Noisy said:

The lower spring seats are not parallel to the upper spring seats, due to the lift.

Very surprised you need 4" on 285/75/16

I'm on 33x13.5x15 and just squeezing in on a 2.5ish" lift only.

More cutting required and lower the suspension IMHO.

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I don't suppose a 4" lift is totally necessary but it looks good .

I've ordered a set of 6 degree arms, if that doesn't improve things then I may take the spacer blocks out. To be honest, I wish I'd stuck to a 2" lift and saved myself a grand...

Arms will defo sort your spring problem out and many others also