Castor correction

Hi Guys and Gals
Yes a topic already covered no doubt, castor correction.
Rangerover classic 1978 3.5V8
2” lift on it already, drives like a pig as it doesn’t centre. Told it’s because it needs castor correction.
The question
Do I simply buy a full correction kit changing the bushes, or
Do I buy the castor corrected radius arms? thank you in advance
Nick

I would check all the other geometry first. If the panhard rod is standard, then the axle will probably be off-centre. Has the tracking been adjusted properly as well?

Not sure, but I assume 2" isn't that much when you think about how much articulation the suspension has from standard.

Is the tracking something like .06°?
Literally just and only just towing out.
A good steering damper kit also once the basics are covered. How about the hockey stick and panard rod bushes ?

I second all that, check all the basics first. I had a 80/81 classic I used for comps with at least a 2 inch lift, had no problems on the road at all.

Thanks guys
Great help, it was because a mechanic mate looked at it and said ‘that must drive like a pig with the angle of your axle’ I said it didn’t centre when driving and his answer was to correct the castor angle. all the parts are new and quality, haven’t checked tracking but she doesn’t wander.
The upgrade I wanted to do so it was more the question, news arms or just castor correction bushes
Cheers

Before I spent more money, I'd get the alignment sorted. Most I have done in the past I have set to zero, so parallel. The book value is 1.2mm to 2.4mm toe out. If this isn't right then it will track all over the place.

Another point worth mentioning is that poor tracking and returning to centre can be caused by someone over adjusting the steering box (screwing the adjusting screw in too tightly) to try to take out back lash. It is an easy mistake to make if you haven't done it before.

According to my 1987-1993 RAVE, normal castor should be 3deg & Toe-Out = 1.2 to 2.44mm. See screenshot.

The Castor should only affect self-centre, but if it's also wandering about, then definitely get tracking sorted first.

You should be able to calculate the castor error from the length of the radius arms & spring lift.

Thank you for all the info.
Yes it’s only self centre, everything else is spot on.
So castor correction bushes being cheaper is that the smart choice to see if it cures the problem

As long as they don't rotate while driving. You could always drop the other end of the radius arms by 2" as well. Then you have a 2" lift with normal castor !!

Muddy goose said:

Thank you for all the info.
Yes it’s only self centre, everything else is spot on.
So castor correction bushes being cheaper is that the smart choice to see if it cures the problem

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The only problems with the caster correct Bush is it closer to one side than the other in its casing. Also the fitting has to be spot on. If your going to off-road it, fitting the corrected arms is the way to go. Not cheap but offroading isn't.

Mark Piercy said:

The only problems with the caster correct Bush is it closer to one side than the other in its casing. Also the fitting has to be spot on. If your going to off-road it, fitting the corrected arms is the way to go. Not cheap but offroading isn't.

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Thanks mate that’s what I wanted to know

pwood999 said:

As long as they don't rotate while driving. You could always drop the other end of the radius arms by 2" as well. Then you have a 2" lift with normal castor !!

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Probably above my paid grade

pwood999 said:

As long as they don't rotate while driving. You could always drop the other end of the radius arms by 2" as well. Then you have a 2" lift with normal castor !!

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That is a very effective way to do it as the arms are kept at a flatter angle..

There is a set of caster correction front radius arms on faceach market place in Braintree for £100

Not sure about RRC but they arent dissimilar, with P38s you can get away with 2’’ with hardly any hassle. It’s when you start to go above that things get technical. Id be looking at about over 3’’ before I’d start worrying about castor correction. More likely existing radius arm bushes are shot or as the gents have mentioned something already there needing adjustment.

I've had a Disco 1 V8 on a 2" lift, no other mods, no problems at all. I had a RRC V8 with a 2" lift, no other mods, no problems. I currently have a 90 200Tdi as a a daily with a 2" lift, no problems at all. In fact with Discoverer STT Pro the 90 corners as though it's on rails with very little body roll.

frog hopper said:

I've had a Disco 1 V8 on a 2" lift, no other mods, no problems at all. I had a RRC V8 with a 2" lift, no other mods, no problems. I currently have a 90 200Tdi as a a daily with a 2" lift, no problems at all. In fact with Discoverer STT Pro the 90 corners as though it's on rails with very little body roll.

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Damn, I didn't know you were into your offroading machines. Data did tell me you did à touch of panel scratching...

Mark Piercy said:

Damn, I didn't know you were into your offroading machines. Data did tell me you did à touch of panel scratching...
View attachment 241577

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Used to do a lot of RTV trials in the UK, one a month for perhaps 8 years at club level, and then there were the Nationals, the Mendips and the Baskerville challenge. All good fun, for not a lot of money. Also drove a lot of green lanes in Gloucestershire and Wiltshire plus others.

frog hopper said:

Used to do a lot of RTV trials in the UK, one a month for perhaps 8 years at club level, and then there were the Nationals, the Mendips and the Baskerville challenge. All good fun, for not a lot of money. Also drove a lot of green lanes in Gloucestershire and Wiltshire plus others.

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We've got two weekends in Aug coming up, just did a stint near Paris.. A couple of lessons learnt there in the old tyre department but great fun.
http://www.landmag.fr/évènement/perigordland-2021/
This is our next one.