can anyone shed light on oil leak

hi guys well ive spent 5 weeks stripped my landy down referb gearbox off ascrofts lots of new bits refurbed other things .and im gutted i fitted a new 25 quid rear engine oil seal and rear starter housing gasket with clutch off had it running ok no leaks now i put it on the road today its leaking quite abit ? im lost

allan downes said:

hi guys well ive spent 5 weeks stripped my landy down referb gearbox off ascrofts lots of new bits refurbed other things .and im gutted i fitted a new 25 quid rear engine oil seal and rear starter housing gasket with clutch off had it running ok no leaks now i put it on the road today its leaking quite abit ? im lost

Click to expand...

rear main leaking ?

yes rear crank oil seal sorry lol bit well stressed

Have you got a link to exactly what seal you fitted?

i contacted bearmach asked for a genuine one it came in a landrover genuine box but i had my doubts if it was a genuine it was 25 pounds

Was it rubber or a sort or the new style seal ring? if new type type ring did you grease it when fitting?
Did you use the supplied seal installer to allow the lip over the crank nose without damaging it.

If it was 25 quid it is most likely the later type seal and weirdly they must be fitted dry, this is a common mistake made by many as they oil/grease them.

I have also had one of the newer type come loose in the flywheel housing, that really ****ed me off, all that work for a bloody seal, the new one got loctited into the housing,

Jesus, what a performance. My old landy leaks from everywhere but I find it seems to stop when it runs out of oil. No need to worry about seals then.

Col

It's a well known barsteward to get right on 300 tdi. A mate had his motor out three times before it got sorted,it is not the crank seal itself that is normal'y the problem but the gasket and the T seals. Fit quality replacement with RTV sealer.

tottot said:

It's a well known barsteward to get right on 300 tdi. A mate had his motor out three times before it got sorted,it is not the crank seal itself that is normal'y the problem but the gasket and the T seals. Fit quality replacement with RTV sealer.

Click to expand...

I put the sealant on everything seal wise, Its over the top but I hate the thought of having to do those fiddly jobs twice, lol I even put it on the main gearbox oil plug!!

used it for work today when driving it or like enging running hardly any oil leaks but when you switch off a half a hand full and drips come out of hole it flywheel housing should i get a dowty seal

Is that a metric half handful or imperial? Whatever it is, it's worse than my old series and I thought that was bad. Thanks, you've made my day.

Col

allan downes said:

used it for work today when driving it or like enging running hardly any oil leaks but when you switch off a half a hand full and drips come out of hole it flywheel housing should i get a dowty seal

Click to expand...

Dowty seal totally different thing altogether.

i used one on my last disco 200 few years back so that would be good then to use a dowty seal

allan downes said:

i used one on my last disco 200 few years back so that would be good then to use a dowty seal

Click to expand...

I could be wrong here but a dowty seal is a generic name for a hydraulic line seal consisting of a steel ring with a bonded internal rubber seal.

ive been doing some homework and it seems the genuine rear crank seal is not to be removed from the plastic cone and it is to go on dry and when you start up just run it on tick over for 5 mins at tick over for to bed in ive ordered a new seal with turner engineering 45 quid ouch but i do not want to do this again ,ill put some piccies up soon it seems quite a few people have done this aswell

Iirc the plastic cone is also the installation guide to stop you catching the seal on the crank.