Disco 4 (LR4) Can anybody check Gap IID for me please?

My wife's Disco 4 didn't have a heated steering wheel and she is jealous of the one in my L322. Also, she suffers with really poor circulation and her fingers are those of a dead woman most of the time!

To the point then, I bought her a heated wheel from a Disco 4, cleaned it all swapped the piano black trim covers from her wheel over, bought a new slip ring with the port for the heater element and fitted it. There is a fuse in F20 which is live, the wiring has power all the way to the wheel but it won't turn on... Bugger!

Now before I get cross with the person that sold me the wheel promising it worked, do I need to code the car to say it has a heated wheel? If any of you lovely people have Gap IID and a Discovery 4, would you mind having a look and seeing if there is an option to code a heated wheel please? Or of course, if you just know that I need to, that will be fine also.

Cheers all

Yes I would expect you have to tell the car it has a heated steering wheel fitted. Change to the ccf is normal if you alter anything on these.
Problem is gap tool is vin locked I can't remember if you can or cannot make changes to ccf without an unlock code I'm sure you can't. Iv had to get unlock code for each of my cars.

Hi, no need for coding, it should work if everything is OK confirmed by the guy who did it https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/heated-steering-wheel-lr4.352435/

I checked the diagram(2015 D4) and logically no coding can be involved as long as there is power on the yellow wire to pin 1 of the heater module(that's directly connected to F20 through the clock spring) and pin 2 is a direct ground so IMO all that module needs to heat up the steering wheel is a command from the switchpack, according to the diagram that heater module has no interface with any unit controlled by diagnostics... but that's just my deduction, i have no personal exprience with the D4

https://disco3.co.uk/forum/heated-steering-wheel-184144.html?highlight=Heated+steering+wheel+ccf
This mite explain it

It seems we have a mix of answers here but I am leaning towards no-coding as from what I have seen, there is a live and earth into the wheel and the switch pack is directly connected to the relay etc that all lives inside the steering wheel. To me, it seems that it takes power (supplied by the two wires on the clock spring that I've already proved are working) you turn on the switch and it flicks the relay to power the heater elements. Feeling like I've been sold a dud really. Bugger!

Appreciate the responses and effort to explain it all, thank you all very much.

You can test a heated wheel with a multimeter.. someone's done it on YouTube.. basically a heater element and a thermistor

Got a reply from the seller stating that it worked fine in his Disco and he only changed it for a piano black wheel. Obviously he wasn't going to reply with "Oh no mate, it's knackered but thanks for the cash".

I did meter resistance on the heater elements and I'm pleased to say ti wasn't open circuit. I also tested continuity on the switch ribbon cable and that was all good too. I want to lean towards it being a switch issue and there are a lot of posts if you search the web where people say it simply no longer switches on. I'm fairly sure that if I study the board I'll be able to see the tracks from the switch and jumper them to they to prove it. And let's be honest, I can swap the wheel out on the car in a matter of minutes and then bench test the heating side of it all. I guess that will be a job for the weekend.

I'll look up the YT video, thanks Kermit_rr

Hi @Blob

been following with interest , I’ve been reading through many of the workshop manuals etc I’ve got , have u got any further since ur last post plse, hope none of this comes across in trying to teach u how to suck eggs

My retrofit was a bit different fitting a D4 wheel into my D3 , indeed understand it can be really frustrating and can make a vicar swear, lol ,

hopefully with the others here I may also be able to share info in order to get it working

indeed with regards to CCF files, if a heated steering wheel has never been fitted module will need to be turned on , however one may have been fitted in the past and turned on then , so when another heated wheel is fitted there’s normally no need to do it again, unless a brand new module has been fitted , that’s where when reading posts on various other forums u sometimes get where some did and others didn’t have to update there CCF , the CCF files on the gap iid is under HVAC ventilation

took a screen shot for u where it shows the CCF menu

may I ask a few questions plse

does the heated steering wheel switch illuminate , was the small loom enclosed inside some sponge like material , has it then been plugged into the clock spring and module

When Turning on ur sidelights does the heated steering wheel switch illuminate plse

what year is ur disco

did u take a note of the year of the steering wheel , there will be a small label

We may need to kindly ask for part numbers from the various items plse as we can then cross match it , think is was 2012 when the canbus speed changed causing some modules not to work on pre / post systems , hopefully it won’t be needed but can check them if we need to

apologises I’m waffling, lol

fingers crossed between all of us we can help by going through it step by step

Also forgot to ask , have u got any of the following plse , diagnostics or a test light , see you’ve got a multimeter

if u haven’t got diagnostics , from island 4x4 in kent , I think they sell a gap iid for around £440.00

Plus see ur not to far away

biketeacherdave said:

Yes I would expect you have to tell the car it has a heated steering wheel fitted. Change to the ccf is normal if you alter anything on these.
Problem is gap tool is vin locked I can't remember if you can or cannot make changes to ccf without an unlock code I'm sure you can't. Iv had to get unlock code for each of my cars.

Click to expand...

hi mate

is this what u was looking for ref what u can and can’t do with the gap iid


Full diagnostic capabilities (free of charge on any supported vehicles for the IIDTool BT)

• Fault read / clear
• Live values
• Control outputs
• Service / test functions (this includes service interval reset)

Advanced programming functions (additional license I think it around £60

• Suspension height modification (this can be quite handy for your customers on specific situations)
• ECU Flash
• Car Configuration File editing
• Component and system calibration (steering angle sensor calibration etc)
• Advanced functions including backup / restore, save profiles - vehicle system settings and configurations are read and stored as a backup file for a restore function, various changes

gstuart said:

Hi @Blob


took a screen shot for u where it shows the CCF menu

may I ask a few questions plse

does the heated steering wheel switch illuminate , was the small loom enclosed inside some sponge like material , has it then been plugged into the clock spring and module

When Turning on ur sidelights does the heated steering wheel switch illuminate plse

what year is ur disco

did u take a note of the year of the steering wheel , there will be a small label

We may need to kindly ask for part numbers from the various items plse as we can then cross match it , think is was 2012 when the canbus speed changed causing some modules not to work on pre / post systems , hopefully it won’t be needed but can check them if we need to

apologises I’m waffling, lol

fingers crossed between all of us we can help by going through it step by step

Click to expand...

Stuart, this is exactly what I was after, thanks so much for taking the time.

To answer a few,
I do have diagnostics but not Gap. I'm intending to buy Gap IID as we currently have the Disco 4 and two L322s (don't ask!).

To the issue at hand, Claire's cold fingers and to answer your specifics"
The heated steering wheel switch illuminates with the sidelights on (green only, never turns on and goes amber)
The car is a 62 plate (registered December 12) and one owner before us, totally original.
Never previously had a heated wheel fitted
I had to order a clock spring with the port of the heated wheel and yes, the original connector was still wrapped in sponge.
I didn't take a note of the steering wheel label but I could whip the airbag out and have a look.

If it's a case that I need to order the Gap IID then that's fine, I'll do it. I'd be happy to pay someone a few quid to turn on the option for me but that's only if they have a pro subscription else as you suggest, it £60-80 per car I think.

Island 4x4 are about 10 minutes from me but I stopped using them when they stopped allowing customers into the shop. They went mail order only and that's just a ridiculous PITA for 3 miles away, there are cheaper alternatives if you're buying online. I expect that sounds bitter and it's not meant that way but if the business model becomes impersonal, then I'll just go for the cheapest impersonal service I can find.

I'll keep you all updated.

Blob said:

Stuart, this is exactly what I was after, thanks so much for taking the time.

To answer a few,
I do have diagnostics but not Gap. I'm intending to buy Gap IID as we currently have the Disco 4 and two L322s (don't ask!).

To the issue at hand, Claire's cold fingers and to answer your specifics"
The heated steering wheel switch illuminates with the sidelights on (green only, never turns on and goes amber)
The car is a 62 plate (registered December 12) and one owner before us, totally original.
Never previously had a heated wheel fitted
I had to order a clock spring with the port of the heated wheel and yes, the original connector was still wrapped in sponge.
I didn't take a note of the steering wheel label but I could whip the airbag out and have a look.

If it's a case that I need to order the Gap IID then that's fine, I'll do it. I'd be happy to pay someone a few quid to turn on the option for me but that's only if they have a pro subscription else as you suggest, it £60-80 per car I think.

Island 4x4 are about 10 minutes from me but I stopped using them when they stopped allowing customers into the shop. They went mail order only and that's just a ridiculous PITA for 3 miles away, there are cheaper alternatives if you're buying online. I expect that sounds bitter and it's not meant that way but if the business model becomes impersonal, then I'll just go for the cheapest impersonal service I can find.

I'll keep you all updated.

Click to expand...

hi

ur so very welcome , always a team effort between all of us , many thks for the answers , that’s a shame island only now sell via the internet

u sound like many of us having multiple landies, lol, indeed getting a gap iid is the best way to go seeing they can be used on other models with the £60 fee per extra motor

plus ur be able to program keys which is well worth it considering the cost from dealers

alas at the end of the day there may be other issues but with the gap ur be able to read all the fault codes, plus ur know there correct as some cheap scanners can give u false readings

many thks ref part numbers etc , u should see a small black module under the air bag that one end of the clock spring other into the small ecu

There’s also a scanner called an Autel ap200 , white one, enclosed the link , also have one and extremely handy to keep in ur glove box , there only around £60, not sure if they can turn the heated CCF on, but really handy having one regardless

https://www.autelsale.co.uk/wholesale/autel-ap200-bt-obd2-scanner.html

Think ur next step will be to confirm 100% if the clock spring is turned on or not before going any further , either using the gap iid or Autel ap200 , could even buy an Autel for each motor if u wanted to lol, , can add other vins,

thks again for the details and allows us to build a picture of ur D4 and go further if so required

hope that helps u and plse let us know how u get on

Gap tool for sale here
https://disco3.co.uk/forum/sale-gap-iid-tool-203273.html

I don't think you can go any further until you have it, as an owner of any modern landy you really do need it.
Iv currently got x4 landies ....again don't ask.
With impending ulez expansion my L322 will have to go as will the wife's D3.

Iv unlocked the gap to all 4 cars it's an amazing bit of kit. Just recently had to reset the sas on our newest D3 .

I have the iCarSoft max that I paid around £400 for, it can do a lot of diagnostic and service, injector coding, battery, EPB etc. but can't write CCF for LR. It was the best all-rounder that I could justify with my fleet. The clock spring is passing power through the connector for the steering wheel heater and the loom is all there in the steering wheel with the little black box that connects to the heater elements etc, there aren't any spare connectors on the switch pack either, it's fully populated.

@biketeacherdave is that your Gap tool? I'm not registered on that forum so I'd have to go through that. While £340 isn't a bad price, it's probably not that great if I add £30 to change owner and then (I'm guessing) another £80 to add my VIN, I may as well just buy new with a warranty? Unless I am missing something. If the owner change includes wiping the VINs and allows me to add mine, I guess it's a bit cheaper then?

No not mine just for sale on another forum I'm on for our D3s. You can get all the info on the gap Web site re costs of transfer and vin unlock.

biketeacherdave said:

No not mine just for sale on another forum I'm on for our D3s. You can get all the info on the gap Web site re costs of transfer and vin unlock.

Click to expand...

£30 to transfer, £50 for a warranty and it's almost the cost of a new one.
I've just ordered a new one from Island 4x4. They are 3.5 miles away and sending with Fedex so I could have had it today but will have to wait for it to lap the courier system first as they no longer have a shop.

I'll update as soon as I've got it and programmed the car.

Thanks all

That’s great you’ve ordered the iid , please always make sure your car battery is kept fully charged particularly when using the gap iid

after you've got it connected , do a full diagnostics scan, , then email the list to yourself / print it out , ,clear everything , do another scan , then plse let us know if any come back

then let us know regarding the steering wheel plse ,many thks

Got the IID - still no joy.
I have options of Heated Steering Wheel 1 or two? Tried both and neither of them work.
Thought I'd try and enable the DRL function too - Nope, that doesn't work either (well, not on standard anyway). I can get them to work in Canadian form but I don't want that. If I enable 'Standard' then the diagnostic says they are shorted or open. My assumption was that it would turn on the LED side lights and they operate perfectly.

To preempt any questions, the IID tool is registered, activated and locked to the VIN of the Discovery. I can get into the Config and it suggests that updates are successful, when I go back in, I can see the changes so the config must be there.

I'd like to enable the DRL function on my 2010 L322 but I'm a bit loathed to buy another VIN unlock for a further £80 as currently, I'm over £700 into a heated steering wheel that is exactly as cold as the old one . Alright, I have an IID tool that is the lion's share of that money however, it currently does nothing more for me than my iCarsoft Max so I'm going to allow myself an hour of being disappointed (and probably a large G&T) then I'll get over it and tomorrow is another day.

What a great shame , also see that your logged into the gap iid tool so all of that is correct , know it’s a lot of money but the gap iid will do all suspension calibration and a lot more

personally the next step would be to get as much information off the steering wheel, ecu, etc also the wiring loom once removed use a multimeter set to ohms , can then check the loom is ok by putting ur multimeter on each ends of the loom and therefore ensuring there’s no breaks on the loom

once again sorry to hear of the agro as indeed ur trying to do a wonderful caring thing for ur beloved , massive respect mate and will help all I can to try our best to get it working

did u get any fault codes plse

so once we have all the information including any dates please I’ll go through all of them for u to see if there’s anything that stands out , it does seem there was a canbus speed change where some ecu modules wouldn’t work with a particular year

Indeed understand it can be very frustrating , the gap iid will pay for itself very quickly seeing it’s a good £150 charge that garages make to just plug diagnostics in

in the mean time I’ll also search through all the part numbers etc I have ready for when u get the numbers , years etc , off ur steering wheel, clock spring , ecu , also thinking about it I think I saw where u had already tested every loom, with with a multimeter, apologises if you already done that , hopefully the wiring looms have part numbers on them as there’s a year change on them as well