Freelander 1 Broke car doing simpliest clutch diy :( help please!

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irish109

Member
Posts
38
Hi Folks,
Feeling pretty numptyish and could really do with some help.
So I got my freelander 2 weeks ago. It just passed the NCT (irish mot) and was running fine.
I decided that I wanted to change tyres, chase a clunking noise and change the master slave clutch system.
Well, I ordered tyres and got a guy to fit them and that went perfect.
I changed the diff mounts and that made no real difference.
But my problem was when I tried to change the clutch hydraulics. I'll explain in detail, please let me know if you recognise a mistake.

So. Ordered my bearmach kit FTC5196R for my 2001 hardtop + bearmach bracket.
I took off slave. Rod was corroded at the mid to end point, figured that was my issue. I then took of the master by rotating it. I did spend a few minutes trying to extract before realiseing I needed to remove from the pedal. So I did that and took it out fine and set aside.

I took out the bearmach kit and inserted the master. It took a while to line up, but when it did I went into the footwell to connect to the pedal. From here I noticed that the pushrod had fallen out completely. On closer inspection the master seemed a bit wet around the seal so I thought sir could have gotten in. I figured a faulty part but could still assemble so I connected the new bracket and slave and it seemed to work except there was no pressure in the pedal. I pushed it to the floor and it didnt return.

At this point I wanted to replace with the origional but I thought id clean up some of the corrosion on the slave. I sanded and wd40'd etc but the rod was still very stiff going back into the slave and when I forced it the seal gave way and some fluid came out. I refixed the seal but when it was all connected, there was still no pressure and the pedel went straight to the floor without coming back at all?

So car is fubared for last 5 days stuck in the driveway. Bearmack very kindly sent me a new unit FTC5196R which I took great care with (took a while to come from UK to Ireland). I hung the master from a door for an hour to make sure there was no air in the slave or system. I put everything together so gently and tried it again and same as.... pedal went to the floor without resistance and would not come back.

Please plaese, can anyone tell me what I did wrong and look at the photos for any clues. My wife wants to sell it for a nissan now :(
@Nodge68 any tips please?
 

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Small update. I decided to go and pump the pedal to see it it was air. I felt the ""tiniest"" resistance and full pedal push. Had me thinking that perhaps again it is not fully seated, off by 10mm or so.
I had another closer inspection in the footwell and the pushrod has only come out again of the bearmach part..... is this normal? Is there another part I should be using? Bearmach actually did check my vin and confirm but this is really bizzarre?
 

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Small update. I decided to go and pump the pedal to see it it was air. I felt the ""tiniest"" resistance and full pedal push. Had me thinking that perhaps again it is not fully seated, off by 10mm or so.
I had another closer inspection in the footwell and the pushrod has only come out again of the bearmach part..... is this normal? Is there another part I should be using? Bearmach actually did check my vin and confirm but this is really bizzarre?
irish109 said:
Hi Folks,
Feeling pretty numptyish and could really do with some help.
So I got my freelander 2 weeks ago. It just passed the NCT (irish mot) and was running fine.
I decided that I wanted to change tyres, chase a clunking noise and change the master slave clutch system.
Well, I ordered tyres and got a guy to fit them and that went perfect.
I changed the diff mounts and that made no real difference.
But my problem was when I tried to change the clutch hydraulics. I'll explain in detail, please let me know if you recognise a mistake.

So. Ordered my bearmach kit FTC5196R for my 2001 hardtop + bearmach bracket.
I took off slave. Rod was corroded at the mid to end point, figured that was my issue. I then took of the master by rotating it. I did spend a few minutes trying to extract before realiseing I needed to remove from the pedal. So I did that and took it out fine and set aside.

I took out the bearmach kit and inserted the master. It took a while to line up, but when it did I went into the footwell to connect to the pedal. From here I noticed that the pushrod had fallen out completely. On closer inspection the master seemed a bit wet around the seal so I thought sir could have gotten in. I figured a faulty part but could still assemble so I connected the new bracket and slave and it seemed to work except there was no pressure in the pedal. I pushed it to the floor and it didnt return.

At this point I wanted to replace with the origional but I thought id clean up some of the corrosion on the slave. I sanded and wd40'd etc but the rod was still very stiff going back into the slave and when I forced it the seal gave way and some fluid came out. I refixed the seal but when it was all connected, there was still no pressure and the pedel went straight to the floor without coming back at all?

So car is fubared for last 5 days stuck in the driveway. Bearmack very kindly sent me a new unit FTC5196R which I took great care with (took a while to come from UK to Ireland). I hung the master from a door for an hour to make sure there was no air in the slave or system. I put everything together so gently and tried it again and same as.... pedal went to the floor without resistance and would not come back.

Please plaese, can anyone tell me what I did wrong and look at the photos for any clues. My wife wants to sell it for a nissan now :(
@Nodge68 any tips please?
Click to expand...
 
So.... despite giving the VIN to bearmach I think they got it wrong.
On their site FTC5196R is for chassis to YA000001 mine is 1A311xxx
I think I need part number stc000160 / stc000180 / stc000120 which is for cars from 1A000001
You wouldnt mind... but after the first part failed I did give her my vin and she did check but on bearmach site it says stc000120 is only for cars from 1A326957 ??? like how random is that number...

ANyway, does anyone know if this is really my issue or something else... is there really such a difference in the parts?
 
Another update. Forced it into gear with engine off and clutch and brake fully depressed. Engine runs normally but when u lift off brake car moves. If u lift off clutch car jumps forward. Impossible to change gear when running. Also, got stuck in reverse. Couldn't get out of gear for over an hour. Was blocking driveway, so had to push / force it out.
Got it back to neutral back to my house.

So. It seems this kit is only engaging clutch 30%.
2 new bearmach kits don't seem to work( will correct part make any difference)
With slave out, clutch linkage to bell gousing only move forward and back 1 inch without any resistance in any direction.

Any ideas?
 
You should start at gearbox end when refitting master/slave cylinder but keep the master above the slave at all times
Did you free up the clutch arm before fitting
You also need part ending 160 it's the later model you need 180 will not fit
 
Last edited:
DCUNNINGHAM said:
You should start at gearbox end when refitting master/slave cylinder but keep the master above the slave at all times
Did you free up the clutch arm before fitting
You also need part ending 160 it's the later model you need 180 will not fit
Click to expand...

Ok... So FTC5196R is 180 I guess. What do you mean by will not fit? Is the fitment issue like the problem I'm describing? Trying hard now to see the difference between the two. I read once the only difference was the length of pipe but not certain on that.

I tried to free up the clutch arm but I'm not sure what a free one looks like or feels and didn't want to do damage. All I know is it worked perfect before.

Thanks
 
irish109 said:
Ok... So FTC5196R is 180 I guess. What do you mean by will not fit? Is the fitment issue like the problem I'm describing? Trying hard now to see the difference between the two. I read once the only difference was the length of pipe but not certain on that.

I tried to free up the clutch arm but I'm not sure what a free one looks like or feels and didn't want to do damage. All I know is it worked perfect before.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I honestly don't know what the difference is but when I bought mine I was told the 180 code is for the early model up to year 2000
The clutch arm should move back and forth with your fingers i used a mixture of wd40 / engine oil / and plus gas spray then just put a piece of small tube over the clutch arm and kept moving it back and forth till it was free
 
As mentioned in the other thread, I no longer trust Bearmach parts. Try a local supplier or Rimmers for OEM. I worked for hours with my original clutch to adjust the length of the rod that fits to the pedal. I treated it very roughly and when refitted it worked a treat so they should be pretty robust.
 
Ya I came to the same conclusion and will order.
While I wait I want to know what the diff is between 160 and 180. Will it cause the issues I have or have I damaged something else, I hope it's not the pedal or clutch itself :(
 
Alibro said:
As mentioned in the other thread, I no longer trust Bearmach parts. Try a local supplier or Rimmers for OEM. I worked for hours with my original clutch to adjust the length of the rod that fits to the pedal. I treated it very roughly and when refitted it worked a treat so they should be pretty robust.
Click to expand...
Thought bearmach was good... I'll go oem after this.
I had thought to lenghten the rod... Or put a spacer in the master cylinder rod receiver, as the rod is always separated. I'm thinking 15mm???
 
irish109 said:
Thought bearmach was good... I'll go oem after this.
I had thought to lenghten the rod... Or put a spacer in the master cylinder rod receiver, as the rod is always separated. I'm thinking 15mm???
Click to expand...
You can't split anything or it's knackered
I can't understand how your rod keeps coming out of master
When you put it through the bulk head connect the rod before locking the master in place but don't forget start at the gearbox first
 
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