Breakdown loss of total power

Bought the L322 few months back on way home it broke down 4 times just stopped. Left it 5 minutes it restarted. Looked on Internet and suggested rear fuel pump. Changed rear fuel pump and fuel filter and all seemed well for a month or so. Until today wife went out in it had problems with stereo cutting out and then nothing until half hour later driving along just lost all power. And it wouldn't start display said hdc inactive and air suspension inactive and it wouldn't start on the key would turn over but not start. Mechanic came out to see if he could start with a jump pack but no go. Took off fuel line and turned over and lots of fuel pumped out so not a fuel issue.

Any ideas ????

:beer2::confused2:op2:

Only common denominator was at the time had satnav and stereo running together and have had intermittent power issues to stereo

Where did they disconnect the fuel line, by the pump or up by the fuel rail?

If by the fuel rail, then try removing an injector and using a bottle check the injectors are injecting....hate to quote from Wheeler Dealers, but Edd China shows how to do that test...look on youtube.

If the injectors are injecting, time to check the glow plugs...but the M57 should atleast struggle into life without the plugs heating....

If they are fine and you are getting fuel, the only thing left is lack of compression or the engine isnt turningover fast enough.

If they are not injecting, yet you have fuel to the fuel rail, it could be a CPS fault not telling the ECU the engine is cranking, or another electrical fault.

Diagnostics would then be my next thought...

Also check the Turbo hoses, they have a tendancy to fall off on the L322... This can cause a drastic lack of power and the ECU to go into limp home mode with no more than 30mph acheivable!

Considering you had power issues, i would be checking all the earth points and connectors for security too.

Take a good look in the rear n/s quarter mfor water ingress, this can cause satnav and radioissues.

All the evidence points to a electrical issue. I would start with battery connections and then look at earth points and straps and fuse box connections.

Taximan2011 said:

Bought the L322 few months back on way home it broke down 4 times just stopped. Left it 5 minutes it restarted. Looked on Internet and suggested rear fuel pump. Changed rear fuel pump and fuel filter and all seemed well for a month or so. Until today wife went out in it had problems with stereo cutting out and then nothing until half hour later driving along just lost all power. And it wouldn't start display said hdc inactive and air suspension inactive and it wouldn't start on the key would turn over but not start. Mechanic came out to see if he could start with a jump pack but no go. Took off fuel line and turned over and lots of fuel pumped out so not a fuel issue.

Any ideas ????

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When we rescued an LDV with the same problems it turned out to be the ignition switch ... the wire connections at the back of the switch had become 'loose' and had arced - giving intermittent lectrickery , then later total failure on the M20 ...

Dippypud said:

When we rescued an LDV with the same problems it turned out to be the ignition switch ... the wire connections at the back of the switch had become 'loose' and had arced - giving intermittent lectrickery , then later total failure on the M20 ...

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As above and also check the alternator output, it may be intermittant.

Thanks guys I'm off to workshop now see what can be figured out

7 faults on diagnostics,
(1) 13573 - Glow Duration Control Unit Faulty...
(2) 7680 - CAN Messages
(3) 4704 - PRE Feed Pressure Below Operating Pressure
(4) 2550 - Unknown
(5) 1280 - Speed Signal CAN Fault
(6) 4688 - Electric Fuel Pump Open Circuit
(7) 13589 - A/C Compressor Shut Off Open Circuit.

Cleared all Faults and the car fired straight up.

Any clues on any of the fault codes ??

Taximan2011 said:

7 faults on diagnostics,
(1) 13573 - Glow Duration Control Unit Faulty...
(2) 7680 - CAN Messages
(3) 4704 - PRE Feed Pressure Below Operating Pressure
(4) 2550 - Unknown
(5) 1280 - Speed Signal CAN Fault
(6) 4688 - Electric Fuel Pump Open Circuit
(7) 13589 - A/C Compressor Shut Off Open Circuit.

Click to expand...

Taximan2011 said:

Cleared all Faults and the car fired straight up.

Any clues on any of the fault codes ??

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Some of those will come up on starting if the battery is a bit low, but feed pressure low and fuel pump open circuit would be the ones I'd look at.
The CAN bus can apparantly get clogged up with phantom faults.
Only guessing so don't take it as gospel.

As Saint said. Check rear near side quarter for rain water. Also under spare wheel. Mines just started to leak and I get all the same symptoms. Wet CanBus connectors cause havoc.

The numbers are genuine BMW specific fault codes. The only 2 that look like starting linked are as you say low pressure and fuel pump open circuit but with fuel coming from pump by fuel filter when turning over surely they are old faults stored.

Taximan2011 said:

The numbers are genuine BMW specific fault codes. The only 2 that look like starting linked are as you say low pressure and fuel pump open circuit but with fuel coming from pump by fuel filter when turning over surely they are old faults stored.

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That is often the case, but why did it stop?

Does the L322 have the same problem with fuse boxes as the P38?

ovalandrover said:

Does the L322 have the same problem with fuse boxes as the P38?

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Nope

Datatek said:

That is often the case, but why did it stop?

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Are there 14000 possible fault codes?

Taximan2011 said:

Any clues on any of the fault codes ??

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Two of the codes, (if you add up the individual numbers ) are identical totals @ 26...... spooky

Picked up car from garage on Tuesday no fault codes. Wife drive it yesterday when she started it came up with pre heating on the dash she took it back to garage who put it back on his Bosch test kit and a glow plug fault has now come up. Are these faults connected. And if its glow plugs why did it stop the other day and why wouldn't it start if engine was already hot

I would be looking to check the fuel rail pressure as suggested by the previous fault flagged. It's not unknown for the engine driven high pressure pump to get tired.