Brakes and body caps

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Fatrover

Fatrover

Well-Known Member
Posts
914
Location
Argyll, Scotland
Greetings RR enthusiasts! Have had my recently adquired '95 classic into the local mechanics for a look over and a service and luckily no problems apart from corrosion on the brake pipes which are swollwn and will need replacing. Strangely, the local mech didnt want to replace them telling me it was a difficult job which he thought was too hard for him. Very strange. Therefore, I might have to go to a Stealer which I dont want to do 'cos the nearest ones 100 miles away + the cost. Anyone know why the brake pipe replacement is allegedly so difficult and is has anyone had a similar experience and also is it going to cost loads of loot. Finally, I replaced the rear bumper on the classic and know there's a wee gap where the new bumper ends and the tail gate which used to be covered by some sort of rubber thing- is this necessary ans what are peoples views on those stupid plastic bodycaps at the rear. Am thinking of leaving them off!
 
Thats what I thought. The mech was going on about how the classic rr's have full time ABS which is difficult to bleed blah blah and how the system is a nightmare to bleed blah blah i think he cant be fcuked with it which is odd as I am perfectly willing to pay to have it sorted! Sadly I dont have the facilities or time to do it meself.
 
full time abs? abs only kicks in when the brakes are used and in any case it releases the brakes not applies them. and also if they are that bad why not just charge more! he could have made a killing!!

i would go seek a better garage as he doesnt seem very brave!
 
My thoughts too! I am surprised as I am happy to pay for it to be done, I didnt follow all the blah about ABS and complicated braking systems, I didnt think it was all that complex. trouble is, where I live theres no other garage for miles! And another strange thing- it went straight through the MOT 3 weeks ago wiyh only one advisory for a leaking power steering pump (no dramas).Hmmmm
 
When I had the old Vogue, it failed on corroded rear brake pipe. decided if one was gone, the others were not far behind. Removed all the steel pipes and took them to the local Motor Factors and they knocked up a set of copper ones, reccomend taking the old pipes because the end fittings differ and the new fittings cannot be taken off once the pipe ends are swaged, without cutting the swaged end off. Used my small hand bender and they fitted perfectly. Bled the system as per the Haynes-didn't have Rave in those days-which was easy and trouble free-used a pressure bleeder. Result-a set of solid pipes which will last the life of the car. Can't believe that manufacturers of pricey motors fit sh*te steel pipes instead of copper.
Get yourself a gallon of fluid and go for it, there's no rocket science-just work to the book.
 
I replaced the pipes on my Classic, mostly it's a reasonably straight forward job. Making the connections to the master cylinder (ABS Booster block thingy) was a bit fiddly. Had some fun with the flexible hoses though, the nuts were seized, in the end I had to cut them off with an angle grinder. Bleeding the brakes was a challenge but using a pressure bleeder helps.

Quite why a garage would not want to do it is beyond me. I did mine on me drive, so there you are, it is IMHO a DIY job but do give yourself about 2 days to do it!! If you go for it yourself, I would suggest actually removing the master cylinder. I left mine in place but having replaced that beastie a couple of months ago I know how easy it is to remove it which gives much better acess for dealing with brake pipes etc.

Almost forgot, the rubber thing across the back bumper, don't think it is important but what you can do is salvage the old one. You should be able to unbolt if from the original bumber but if the studs have rotted out simply cut them off thee metal fixing strip then clean the rubber bit and set it aside. The metal strip will need to be cleaned, rub it down and remove all corrosion. Next drill out the crusty old studs, make sure you get the holes in the right place and give yourself a little clearance.

Next, countersink the holes you drilled. (just use a BIG drill bit - carefully) Then spray everything with at least 2 or 3 coats of black Hammerite smooth - satin finish. Put rubber in place, secure metal strip to bumper using counter sunk machine screws and the job's a good 'un. Worked fine on my Classic anyway.
 
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Thanks Kev, grand advice. I hoofed the old bumper into the skip at work, the rubber thing was all split and manky so no good. Think might leave it off and those stupid plastic body caps too!
 
Well, well........took the P38 for the MOT today, everything ok but gave me an Advisory ticket on slightly corroded brake pipes across rear axle. Bought two coils of 3/16" O.D. copper tube from Craddocks and I will replace all the crap original steel pipes on the car-nice little project for when I get home!!!

Question for you diehards..can someone with a P38 check the O.D. of the brake pipes at the master cylinder end with a micrometer to ensure that they are in fact 3/16" (0.187") as I don't have access to one.

Stealer wants £38 each for a short brake pipe-paid £32 for enough copper to do the whole car and still have a fair bit left.;):behindsofa:
 
ive got mine to do yet before june,asi noticed the 2 rear ones have corrosion,so i am going to do the lot,one dry weekend.in the meantime just bought a rovacom lite can,t wait to get it and have a play
 
Thanks Brnocz, I intend using the old fittings, just want confirmation of the pipe size, contact in the trade tells me it's 3/16"
Good on ya Andy..did you buy the one off Ebay?? When you get logged on to the Blackbox forum I am "johneastleach". If you want any info etc.-either gimme a shout on here or the BBox forum
 
that was the one mate,i thought if i bought that i could build it up as and when money allow,as soon as i get it,i,ll have a look on the forum,i will have to learn how to use it
 
Hi Guys...Yes, I have the flaring tool and the hand bender from my machine building days.
Andy, I think, from memory, you have the standard BECM module included, so for starters, make sure you have the server no.-it's on the "Rovacomlite" box and probably consists of four nos. Send a mail to BBS advising change of ownership and requesting a login to the forum. Once you have the details, login and go in to downloads then download Vehicle Server v1.23a on to the laptop/PC you wish to use. Plug the OBDII lead in, ignition on then go through the read settings menu initially and more importantly, remember to make a note of existing settings before going mad with changing things.
 
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