Freelander 1 Brake pipe/line question

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Kalahari_Pete

Member
Posts
39
Location
Evesham
Failed MOT for rusty brake pipes. As follows...

  • Nearside Front Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
  • Front Brake pipe excessively corroded to nearside rear (1.1.11 (c))
  • Front Brake pipe excessively corroded to offside rear (1.1.11 (c))
  • Nearside Rear Brake hose ferrule excessively corroded (1.1.12 (f) (i))
  • Offside Rear Brake hose ferrule excessively corroded (1.1.12 (f) (i))
Advisories.....

  • Nearside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
  • Offside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
  • Nearside Front Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrule (1.1.12 (f) (i))
  • Offside Front Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrule (1.1.12 (f) (i))
My question to you guys is do I have to replace the whole pipe on the long front to rear ones or can I just chop out the rusty sections and add in new cunifer pipe? Is it allowed to mix cunifer with the original steel pipes?
Looks like a nightmare job to make and fit complete pipes lying on your back on the ground. Trying to make the job easier if I can. Never made brake pipes before.
All advice greatly appreciated. Cheers.
 
Have a read of this that I prepared to prevent people getting it dangerously wrong!!

A brake pipe fitting is not universal.

Not a bad job, buy a bender tool and the right fittings. Take your time, copy old sections.
Use proper joiner sleeves with the correct fittings if not changing the whole pipe.
Budget for new hoses and rear wheel cylinders too as the pipes usually won't unscrew.

Good luck!!
 
I agree with Andy. Use the correct tools, and do the job properly.
I replaced the whole lot on mine, from the ABS modulator, all the way to all 4 corners. It took me a whole day, but it was well worth the time. I replaced all the hoses at the same time, as it just made sense to do it correctly.
 
andyfreelandy said:
That'll do the SAE flares but not the DIN.
If you read my thread in the link all will be revealed including the different profiles of tool, fitting and flares.
Click to expand...
Are the four lines from the ABS modulator to the wheels all SAE fittings or are some of them DIN fittings? I only have an SAE flaring tool. Don't want to buy a DIN flaring tool if I don't need one. Cheers. Great thread BTW
 
Nodge68 said:
I agree with Andy. Use the correct tools, and do the job properly.
I replaced the whole lot on mine, from the ABS modulator, all the way to all 4 corners. It took me a whole day, but it was well worth the time. I replaced all the hoses at the same time, as it just made sense to do it correctly.
Click to expand...
One day only? WOW I will be pleased if I can do one corner per day. I have bought all 4 hoses. I think I'll have to cut the pipes off the wheel cylinders and remove the cylinders to try and remove the unions and bleed nipples.If that fails I'll have to replace the cylinders i guess.
Did you do yours on a lift or axle stands?
 
Kalahari_Pete said:
Are the four lines from the ABS modulator to the wheels all SAE fittings or are some of them DIN fittings?
Click to expand...

The Freelander uses DIN single flare and SAE double flare throughout.
From memory connections to hoses are SAE double flare and the rest to abs modulator and wheel cylinders etc are DIN single.

It will be obvious on disassembly or by inspection of the new component.

Buy a few replacement clips as they can break if you are not careful. Silicon spray and gentle levering whilst holding the clip open is the technique.

If the fuel tank cradle needs changing it is easier to do the brake pipes while this is off. You'll need to drop the rear subframe for that though.
 
Another vote for replacing them all, with cunifer.

I'm finishing the same job on my D1 at the mo, and yes, it's a ballache in some ways, but less hassle than repeated advisories on the MOT .... and the resultant patchwork of joints under the car :rolleyes:
 
andyfreelandy said:
The Freelander uses DIN single flare and SAE double flare throughout.
From memory connections to hoses are SAE double flare and the rest to abs modulator and wheel cylinders etc are DIN single.

It will be obvious on disassembly or by inspection of the new component.

Buy a few replacement clips as they can break if you are not careful. Silicon spray and gentle levering whilst holding the clip open is the technique.

If the fuel tank cradle needs changing it is easier to do the brake pipes while this is off. You'll need to drop the rear subframe for that though.
Click to expand...
What clips are you talking about? Where can I buy some? Cheers.
 
I think I've still got a pair of genuine solid pipes that fit from the cylinder to the flexi.

They were bought for a 2004 that I no longer own.

If you think they might be of use PM me...
 
Disco1BFG said:
Another vote for replacing them all, with cunifer.

I'm finishing the same job on my D1 at the mo, and yes, it's a ballache in some ways, but less hassle than repeated advisories on the MOT .... and the resultant patchwork of joints under the car :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
NeilTD4 said:
I think I've still got a pair of genuine solid pipes that fit from the cylinder to the flexi.

They were bought for a 2004 that I no longer own.

If you think they might be of use PM me...
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'll send you a PM if I need them.
 
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