Brake lights at rear won't go off

Just completed the modulator fix by replacing the whole modulator with a known good one. However the rear brake lights are staying on and this is inhibiting other things like the EAS. Car had been immobile 2 months so battery had drained. It was charged overnight before being refitted. However after the whole swap and bleed process its dropped to 12.1V and car won't start. So I will have the battery checked cell by cell but meanwhile any idea why the lights stay on? I know things go strange when volts are low but I haven't heard of this.

Edit. Checked Rave and plugged in the hawkeye. Rave says Brake Switch 1 (normally open), Brake Switch 2 (normally closed). Hawkeye is finding the opposite.

What are the brake switches and where please? I don't remember doing much with the wiring (other than the harness to the abs modulator) so is it possible I switched them around?

Any info re these mysterious brake switches would be most welcome!

Cheers fellas.

The brake switches are mounted on the pedal box under the dashboard and are at the top of the brake pedal itself....

One switch I believe is for the lights, the other for Crusie Control shutoff and (if yours is petty) it will have the CC Vacumm Vent on it too!

Spot on Saint, thank you. Funny thing is after the modulator change the pedal doesn't seem to touch the switch. Its almost like the connecting rod between it and the master cylinder/modulator is shorter. Part number's the same STC2788 and as far as I can tell I've fitted it correctly so its odd. For the time being have solved it by gluing a 1cm thick square of rubber to the end of the switch to extend it slightly and everything seems to work.

Also I'm wondering if I should bleed the clutch, because its a manual and it shares the fluid with the braking system. Obviously I very meticulously bled the brakes after the transplant but clutch is very low to the floor. Does rise a little after half an hour or so driving. Does that indicate bleeding required or something else?

rasheed said:

Spot on Saint, thank you. Funny thing is after the modulator change the pedal doesn't seem to touch the switch. Its almost like the connecting rod between it and the master cylinder/modulator is shorter. Part number's the same STC2788 and as far as I can tell I've fitted it correctly so its odd. For the time being have solved it by gluing a 1cm thick square of rubber to the end of the switch to extend it slightly and everything seems to work.

Also I'm wondering if I should bleed the clutch, because its a manual and it shares the fluid with the braking system. Obviously I very meticulously bled the brakes after the transplant but clutch is very low to the floor. Does rise a little after half an hour or so driving. Does that indicate bleeding required or something else?

Click to expand...

The plunger on the switch self adjusts when you fit it. You need to remove the switch pull the plunger out to it's full extent (carefully) then refit the switch holding pedal down as far as you can. Contact with the brake pedal as you let it back will push the plunger back in and self adjust it.

Wammers, the things you don't know will fit on a stamp. :clap2:


(bet that goes in your sig! )

Go on then, why's the clutch down in the dumps?

rasheed said:

Wammers, the things you don't know will fit on a stamp. :clap2:


(bet that goes in your sig! )

Go on then, why's the clutch down in the dumps?

Click to expand...

It's definitely a contender. As for clutch air in it i would think. Get someone to stand on it then open bleeder. Do this a few times it should fire any air out. Or you could reverse bleed it with a syringe. Or one of the vac bleeders they use for motorbikes would do it.