Body work corrosion.

Me again for myself this time. I have 2000 dhse and the front passanger door has a few bubbles of piant/corrosion on it. Whats the best way of treating this. What products could i use to repair the door, thanking you again Bazz.:tea:

paint?

Bit of corrosion on a landy? Never heard such a thing

Treat the areas with etch primer , and then some rust stop primer .. the wurth ruststop is a good product. your better off, getting it done properly, if you have a tidy rangerover.

1Spin, was going to get it done when i had the front bumper rplaced and painted but the body shop in Leeds said it had to be all resprayed because of the colour. Arses were'nt interested, so thought i might give it a go myself. Will look out for the products at the local motor factors in Wakefield next week. Thanks again, Bazz.

They were just looking for the work. Best thing to do might be to pick up one on the unamed internet auction site from a breaker, chances are someone somewhere will have your colour. Just the shell should be cheap.

This way you can do any repairs to your newly acquired one while it's off the vehicle and not rush the preparation and paint job. When ready it should be a simple swap of the furniture and messing about with the alignment. If you have the time and money why not just send the door to the paint shop. Thy will give you bollx about colour blending and doing it on the vehicle to avoid scratches when fitting but in my experience they just want more money out of you. Besides which with good t-Cut and polish and sealant you can get the colours matching yourself as below....(sorry everyone again!)

Then flog your old corroded one to someone else looking to replace a door.

Get your colours from a Land Rover Specialist on the internet not halfords etc as they may not be a great match.

From a sprayers point of view its far better to blend a whole door or bumper than to try and blend a patch. Far less noticeable due to fading ect

1spin said:

Treat the areas with etch primer , and then some rust stop primer .. the wurth ruststop is a good product. your better off, getting it done properly, if you have a tidy rangerover.

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Stop rust won't help, the door panels are alloy are they not?

As above but where the the alloy meets the metal strengthening parts you will get corrosion, as metal rots alloy over time , apperntly range rover wings and doors are zinc plated for extra protection.

Thanks for your time gents, going to look at getting the door fixed at a local bodyshop depending on the price as it is a nice motor. Bazz.

defender300td1 said:

As above but where the the alloy meets the metal strengthening parts you will get corrosion, as metal rots alloy over time , apperntly range rover wings and doors are zinc plated for extra protection.

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I'm going to be very pedantic now....

It is actually Electrolytic Corrosion between the two dissimilar metals when they get wet/damp.

The water acts like an electrolyte and this cause the two metals to generate a tiny electrical current (similar to when you put two different metals into a lemon - you get voltage) and this electrical charge corrodes the softer alloy panels....

Ships use sacrifical Silver Anodes bolted to the hull due to the same effect - the softer Anode gets corrded away protecting the steel/iron hull plates

In aerospace Engineering we use something we have nicknamed 'Yak-****' - it is a yellow paste that is applied to the mating surfaces in construction, this Yak-**** acts as an insulator between the two metals....

Saint.V8 said:

I'm going to be very pedantic now....

It is actually Electrolytic Corrosion between the two dissimilar metals when they get wet/damp.

The water acts like an electrolyte and this cause the two metals to generate a tiny electrical current (similar to when you put two different metals into a lemon - you get voltage) and this electrical charge corrodes the softer alloy panels....

Ships use sacrifical Silver Anodes bolted to the hull due to the same effect - the softer Anode gets corrded away protecting the steel/iron hull plates

In aerospace Engineering we use something we have nicknamed 'Yak-****' - it is a yellow paste that is applied to the mating surfaces in construction, this Yak-**** acts as an insulator between the two metals....

Click to expand...

Zinc

Datatek said:

Zinc

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I got out pedantic'd by the Master....

All I knew it was a silver colour!!

Saint.V8 said:

I got out pedantic'd by the Master....

All I knew it was a silver colour!!

Click to expand...

Did a lot of work on boat electronics

Saint.V8 said:

I'm going to be very pedantic now....

It is actually Electrolytic Corrosion between the two dissimilar metals when they get wet/damp.

The water acts like an electrolyte and this cause the two metals to generate a tiny electrical current (similar to when you put two different metals into a lemon - you get voltage) and this electrical charge corrodes the softer alloy panels....

Ships use sacrifical Silver Anodes bolted to the hull due to the same effect - the softer Anode gets corrded away protecting the steel/iron hull plates

In aerospace Engineering we use something we have nicknamed 'Yak-****' - it is a yellow paste that is applied to the mating surfaces in construction, this Yak-**** acts as an insulator between the two metals....

Click to expand...

yes saint lol that's the long winded version , although this is not aerospace quality lol look at all defenders they always rot around seat belt fixings rear tub fixings and so on don't think landrovers is as worried compared to plane building . electrolysis is the correct name I think.

Datatek said:

Did a lot of work on boat electronics

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I've met someone who manufacturers them in a faraway land. Have we sufficient material and interest for a new sub-forum?

G~

Get it fixed properly before it gets worse. If you want to just stop the rust from getting worse, strip the paint of and coat it in por15 (US) then put paint over that. I don't know if you guys have that or similar product in the UK.