Big end shells

Defender 110 200 tdi
Has anyone changed big end shell bearings from underneath with sump removed. Haynes advises against it, but I can't see any problems in doing so. Or am I missing something???????

big ends can be changed quite easily from underneath just make sure notches fit properly

the crank is a heavy bugger so just loosen the m off a wee bit then replace on at a time

andy mcd said:

the crank is a heavy bugger so just loosen the m off a wee bit then replace on at a time

Click to expand...

Whats that in english?

The OP was asking about the big ends - do you know which bit of the engine that is?

For the OP yes it can be done although if the crank is worn changing the shells is pretty short term fix.

whats up dont you speak scottish ??

If you are working under neath it and lossen the caps to much and the crank drops it is really heavy to replace without damaging the shells. There is that better.

It all depends on the wear on the crank when you change the shells. I replaced them on an escort van and got 60K out of it before i sold it. So it can be a long term fix just depends

Thanks all,
I think what may be under discussion here is do I need to drop the crank off to replace big end bearings? Obviously would have to if I was replacing main bearings as well.

Satch

I do not think the posters here know the difference between mains and big ends.

In answer to you...... For big ends no you need do nothing with the crank except turn it!

the problem with 200 tdi will be ladder frame which cant be removed without removing gear box from engine

Ay dear there's some funny info flying around in here today

The Defender version of the 200tdi engine and the Discovery version of the 200tdi engine have different means of holding the ladder frame to the bottom of the cylinder block at the back end (the horizontal bolts). The Defender variant, has three or four counter-sunk bolts which sit nicely out of the way in the mating face of the flywheel housing, making it impossible to get at them without removing either the gearbox, or the engine. The Discovery variant has three or four long bolts which pass through the bellhousing, the flywheel housing and then into the ladder frame, which means that they can be removed without having to pull the engine out or dropping the gearbox. However, if you do have the Defender variant, it is possible that someone may have already taken care of this slight problem for you in the past. You'd have to be very lucky though

As for the crank shaft; it will not drop or move what so ever if it is just the big end bearings that you are replacing. That is ofcourse unless you start unbolting the wrong things. I hope you are aware that it is a head off job so that you can knock the pistons up far enough to be able to get the bearings in and out?

-Tom

I'm pretty sure that you dont have to take the head off. With the con-rod big end bearing undone and the bottom half of the big end bearing removed turn the crank until the relevant piston is at TDC. Keep turning the crank leaving the piston, con-rod and top shell of the big end bearing up the bore. You should be able to hook the old con-rod bearing shell out and get the new one pressed back before carefully turning the crankshaft and fitting the rest of the big end bearing. It is tight and awkward but I'm sure I've seen it done.