Belt change

Had the hood up today on my 2000 dhse 2.5... And noticed that the belt could do with a change... Couple of things , I have a copy of rave ...but just checking there are two belts? Drive belt and air con.... Also I'm looking to do this my self over a weekend... Is it any harder than it looks or any pit falls along the way....?

Seems straight forward enough,
Cheers

Yep two belts....

Being a bit OTT with the belt tensioner can snap the tensioner !

Yes as Saint V8 said, "its easy to break the belt tensioner," how do i know that.

Is it squeaking?
I've found the main problem is access, so do let me know what you need to remove to get in there

Olly333333 said:

Had the hood up today on my 2000 dhse 2.5... And noticed that the belt could do with a change... Couple of things , I have a copy of rave ...but just checking there are two belts? Drive belt and air con.... Also I'm looking to do this my self over a weekend... Is it any harder than it looks or any pit falls along the way....?

Seems straight forward enough,
Cheers

Click to expand...

If you leave everything in place it can be done easily in about 10 mins.
Nice long lever on the belt tensioner - I used a 500mm breaker bar to slip into the gap and very gently ease it down (pushing the ram up) just enough to slip the belt off - it's literally 1/2" movement is all thats needed. Then it's a case of removing it and arranging around the fan and out the rad/fan cover being careful not break blades and ding radiator fins. Worst bit of damage i did was to my knuckles so gloves if you have them. You have to do a bit under the bonnet then a bit under the vehicle and rotate the fan a few times. Then same when refitting - over the fan first, then once its in place (diagram in rave if you can't remember how it goes back on, ease the tensioner again carefully and slip it around the last pulley.

A/C is even easier - if you havent got a cap for the tensioner pulley expect the bolts to be a bit resistive. Most important thing is when you refit the tension (torque value) is set correctly - from memory two allen keys required. If the belt works loose (like mine did) the viscous fan will eat it, or worse the a/c belt will eat the viscous fan.

Easiest thing i did on mine - in fact so much so I got cocky and replaced the belt 4x in 30k miles

TCubed said:

Is it squeaking?
I've found the main problem is access, so do let me know what you need to remove to get in there

Click to expand...

fan and its cowling makes life easier with un scrapped knuckles while up stairs is fiddling about I'd have the fan off belt on without a tangled mess

Im doing this job on Saturday... both belts and a new tensioner 10 mins eh??? that obviously doesn't include a beer break

Dopey said:

Im doing this job on Saturday... both belts and a new tensioner 10 mins eh??? that obviously doesn't include a beer break

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I would Like to see you fiddle about with the belt ,fan on in 10 minutes

You can barley see the pullys let alone get the belt on it can be done but why make it hard for yourself .

defender300td1 said:

I would Like to see you fiddle about with the belt ,fan on in 10 minutes

You can barley see the pullys let alone get the belt on it can be done but why make it hard for yourself .

Click to expand...

Perhaps because it can be very difficult to get the fan off especially with the EGR pipe across the front.

Datatek said:

Perhaps because it can be very difficult to get the fan off especially with the EGR pipe across the front.

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Not with the right tools it shouldn't I always release mine once a year to prevent is seizing part of a decent service Schedule that.

defender300td1 said:

Not with the right tools it shouldn't I always release mine once a year to prevent is seizing part of a decent service Schedule that.

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I was running without mine, put it back temporarily due to an electrical fault in the aircon wiring, now it will not budge. It will be the 4 10mm bolts when I next have it in the garage. Also it's difficult to remove the cowl, you need at least one hose off with the associated loss of coolant.

Datatek said:

I was running without mine, put it back temporarily due to an electrical fault in the aircon wiring, now it will not budge. It will be the 4 10mm bolts when I next have it in the garage. Also it's difficult to remove the cowl, you need at least one hose off with the associated loss of coolant.

Click to expand...

That's odd my cowl don't come out without the fan removed at the same time , as for the rad too don't come out without fan removed bottom of rad gets wedged .

defender300td1 said:

That's odd my cowl don't come out without the fan removed at the same time , as for the rad too don't come out without fan remover bottom of rad gets wedged .

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I didn't say it did, on mine I seem to need to remove the cowl and fan together. I can't get the fan past the cowl.
Sheet of hardboard down between the cowl and the RAD to protect it, undo fan, remove top hose, wriggle the whole lot out together.

Datatek said:

I didn't say it did, on mine I seem to need to remove the cowl and fan together. I can't get the fan past the cowl.
Sheet of hardboard down between the cowl and the RAD to protect it, undo fan, remove top hose, wriggle the whole lot out together.

Click to expand...

Sorry misread.