auxillery Belt change feelander 1 td4

Good afternoon everyone, I will have to have my belt/belts changed at a "garage" My usual place is booked till the end of the year and i have no idea how long they/it has been on there mine is a 2005 Not sure if it has air con has the switch on the dash and a pair of pipes going into the car from the bulkhead that is all I can see. would anyone be able to tell me how long this may take? (I know its a bit off a pig to do aparently) I was thinking a couple of hours may be??

Assuming car is already jacked up or on a lift, it should he 10-20 mins (max) to remove underbelly panel. Then 5-10 mins each for the two belts. If any of the idler pulleys or the tensioner need replacing, they take longer !!

I would only use Continetal belts, I've used others & they've perished at an alarming rate.
Aux belt p/no 5PK 2030
AC belt p/no 5PK 884 (provided your AC is still there).

Hi,

Check that you have the right tools first. You will need special tools to hit the tensionner for removing the belt.

Alteredtech said:

Hi,

Check that you have the right tools first. You will need special tools to hit the tensionner for removing the belt.

Click to expand...

Going to let what passes for a garage do it as weather is really bad for at least another 2 weeks I have not got a garage You will never guess how much they are going to stiff me for £163.97 of your English pounds Can I assume Air conditioning is on the car as standard?

That is an excessive amount for a couple of belt replacements as you only need to remove r/h front wheel/inspection panel in the wheelarch & the under tray (unless there are other factors, seized bolts & or inc tensioner replacement).
On the ac front & yours being a later model I would have said the ac was std fitment certainly on the SE & HSE models.

Alteredtech said:

Hi,

Check that you have the right tools first. You will need special tools to hit the tensionner for removing the belt.

Click to expand...

Not aware of any special tools needed, just need to slacken tensioner bolts then use a socket/ring spanner to take the tension off the belts, remove old belts, slip on the new ones then let the tensioner take up the 'slack' again then torque up the tensioner lock bolt.

Andy Warren said:

Not aware of any special tools needed, just need to slacken tensioner bolts then use a socket/ring spanner to take the tension off the belts, remove old belts, slip on the new ones then let the tensioner take up the 'slack' again then torque up the tensioner lock bolt.

Click to expand...

There are long and thin spanner designed for the tensionners.
If your spanner is not that long, reaching the tensionner can be an issue.

Alteredtech said:

There are long and thin spanner designed for the tensionners.
If your spanner is not that long, reaching the tensionner can be an issue.

Click to expand...

Hi, I must admit I didn't know about the thin spanners I just got the right sized ring spanner (to hold the tensioner once slackened off) out my tool box & found it a breeze to do the belts, having said that I have a reasonable selection of different types of ring spanners,swan neck etc.

Andy Warren said:

That is an excessive amount for a couple of belt replacements as you only need to remove r/h front wheel/inspection panel in the wheelarch & the under tray (unless there are other factors, seized bolts & or inc tensioner replacement).
On the ac front & yours being a later model I would have said the ac was std fitment certainly on the SE & HSE models.

Click to expand...

I thought that (Formulae 1 auto centres) BUT at the moment the only other option is Halfords or LR main dealership

I have a freelander 2004 td4 S, and it has automatic air conditioning. You should certaintly have at least manual air conditioning on freelander 1 td4.

Alteredtech said:

I have a freelander 2004 td4 S, and it has automatic air conditioning. You should certaintly have at least manual air conditioning on freelander 1 td4.

Click to expand...

Thankyou

I use long "aviation" spanners like these for the tensioners on TD4 (24mm) and P38 (15mm). Much better leverage, and the straight ring heads mean the force it aligned with the tensioner. Regular angled ring spanner does not fit properly on the FL1 TD4, because the gap between the bulkhead is too small.

pwood999 said:

I use long "aviation" spanners like these for the tensioners on TD4 (24mm) and P38 (15mm). Much better leverage, and the straight ring heads mean the force it aligned with the tensioner. Regular angled ring spanner does not fit properly on the FL1 TD4, because the gap between the bulkhead is too small.

Click to expand...

Finally found a small proper Garage locally to me charged an hours labour plus cost of both belts