My suspicious mind says that voltage is to high, unless theyhahd charged it, or it had just been removed off the car?
Is 4.84 ohms good? I ask as I have never measured a batteries resistance.
Battery failure
- Thread starter westone
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My suspicious mind says that voltage is to high, unless theyhahd charged it, or it had just been removed off the car?
Is 4.84 ohms good? I ask as I have never measured a batteries resistance.
Just imagine how the couriers treat them.
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It's more the fact they let them discharge on the shelf. Last one i bought wouldn't hold at more than 12.4v. tried to complain, their battery tester said 'ok' so i was sent on my way
Tbh never thought of that, will have to take a multimeter with me next time.
westone
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Thank you.
I am told the higher that figure the more sulphating is present, 4.84 mOhms is not fresh, but not clogged up at all.
Which is reassuring
I am going to do some measurements in the morning and see if I can find anything wrong anywhere and or try to recreate the loss of charge.
I am keeping a written record of my test figures, so I can compare.
will update
This guy is quite good, where he tests the fuses is very smart, and much faster than traditional ways, another guy in comments says he uses a thermal camera to see which fuse is warmest, which is also very clever, if not expensive!
I just tested my spare bench test battery which is showing 11.77 volts, so pretty shagged, it has an internal resistance of zero, assuming I am measuring it correctly?
westone
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Sounds a bit bad,I tested my relays today and all seemed okay.Garage told me to check for heat on them which is a clever idea.
So used a laser thermometer.
Just a cheap one i have from e bay about £10.
They all measured 28.6C in the main, plus or minus 0.2.
So no further forward battery is holding its charge on the car am checking twice a day.
I m not sure about zero resistance sounds not right,11.7 dc is low but perhaps it can be saved.
So used a laser thermometer.
Just a cheap one i have from e bay about £10.
They all measured 28.6C in the main, plus or minus 0.2.
So no further forward battery is holding its charge on the car am checking twice a day.
I m not sure about zero resistance sounds not right,11.7 dc is low but perhaps it can be saved.
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That reminds me, mines been on charge in the garage for week
I'd better go and check it Not expecting much out of a 10year + battery.
westone
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Afte ray playing today I checked the drain again to make sure it had not gone mad and started discharging big time.
The 1st picture is with 0.41Amps DC is within a minute of me locking the car, it took 35 minutes to go to sleep and give me the 0.01Amps DC drain current.
Happy with this.I have lost confidence in Disco a bit and worry it may happen when I am out with him, but then again if I buy a new battery it could still happen. During the day the dc volts measured 12.74VDC at 0900am today and 12.7 at 1600
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The 1st picture is with 0.41Amps DC is within a minute of me locking the car, it took 35 minutes to go to sleep and give me the 0.01Amps DC drain current.
Happy with this.I have lost confidence in Disco a bit and worry it may happen when I am out with him, but then again if I buy a new battery it could still happen. During the day the dc volts measured 12.74VDC at 0900am today and 12.7 at 1600
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12.7 is good
westone
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Yes hope it stays that way…I am still perplexed as to why.
One theory I have is I put a cover on disco when not in use.
This is because we have loads of wood pigeons here and they mess all over disco and sit on the rails messing.
So cannot see if the buttons are down.
I wonder if after charging him I forgot to lock up disco and it was drawing a high current until I went to drive him 3 days later.
Doing the maths it’s probably not long enough to do this…I am just stabbing in the dark.
Thing is I had to use my key in the lock to get in,but maybe I locked him up just before the battery gave up.
One theory I have is I put a cover on disco when not in use.
This is because we have loads of wood pigeons here and they mess all over disco and sit on the rails messing.
So cannot see if the buttons are down.
I wonder if after charging him I forgot to lock up disco and it was drawing a high current until I went to drive him 3 days later.
Doing the maths it’s probably not long enough to do this…I am just stabbing in the dark.
Thing is I had to use my key in the lock to get in,but maybe I locked him up just before the battery gave up.
Quiescent current draw in an unlocked and switched off D1 should be less than locked, due to alarm not being armed - specifically, no volumetric "measurement" going on - agree it's not much, but still less ....
I've had batteries do all sorts of stupidity, including losing a charge over a short period, and then recovering after a good charge ... I'd highly recommend a proper battery tester like to Topdon BT200 ( ~£50 )....
When I came back to D1's, the battery it came with just one day burst - the acid ate the front corner of the body, which had to be replaced, but hey ho - new battery now lives in a "caravan" style battery bag to contain the mess, should another lose the will to live ...
An air rifle will assist with that issue
westone
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Thank you.Quiescent current draw in an unlocked and switched off D1 should be less than locked, due to alarm not being armed - specifically, no volumetric "measurement" going on - agree it's not much, but still less ....
I've had batteries do all sorts of stupidity, including losing a charge over a short period, and then recovering after a good charge ... I'd highly recommend a proper battery tester like to Topdon BT200 ( ~£50 )....
When I came back to D1's, the battery it came with just one day burst - the acid ate the front corner of the body, which had to be replaced, but hey ho - new battery now lives in a "caravan" style battery bag to contain the mess, should another lose the will to live ...
An air rifle will assist with that issue
my Disco is a D2 and does not have volumetric sensors.When the car is unlocked the ECUs are active, locked they go to sleep..
The tester used was a Bosch unit by the garage and looked very expensive to me so will stick with the measurements .
done.
I may just buy a new battery due to confidence in the old ones far though its not lost any bolts of any significance.
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Measure the voltage across the terminals while someone else cranks the engine, will give you a fairly accurate picture of the battery health.
discool
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Then in the absence of a “someone else” and have a bit of spare cash get one of these Gizmos, it runs via Bluetooth to a mobile/tablet although with mine I have to stand within a metre or so to connect, so either side of the bonnet that is, and it doesn’t connect inside my disco. So its a novelty.
Pics show the item and the state of my discos battery this morning. It told me it took 3.5 seconds of cranking to fire up at 12 volts.
My Fluke meter gives a static 12.52 reading while the item gives 12.28 which is about right, the Fluke has a certificate which states 2% over on vdc range.
Pics show the item and the state of my discos battery this morning. It told me it took 3.5 seconds of cranking to fire up at 12 volts.
My Fluke meter gives a static 12.52 reading while the item gives 12.28 which is about right, the Fluke has a certificate which states 2% over on vdc range.
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Mine just about connects from inside the house, been doing a bit of driving today so has had a good charge.
Tracker is connected to second battery
Tracker is connected to second battery
westone
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Found this on e bay I think that's it.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/29395363...rentrq:20e8213217c0a6e5bb037a91fffd83ba|iid:1
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/29395363...rentrq:20e8213217c0a6e5bb037a91fffd83ba|iid:1
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Loads on Amazon, just search for "12v battery monitor bluetooth" it's a bit more expensive than fleabay but it may be slightly better.
Amazon product
Amazon product
