BAd Vibration

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I can confirm that if the VCU is on its way out it will and can fcuk ya rear diff up to the point of it giving up the ghost and punching shards out the casing, it happened to mine 2 years ago, all i did was remove rear prop, take the diff out and ive ran it on front wheeldrive ever since, now quicker off the mark and gives better MPG :)
 
takes about 15 mins to take prop off to test if thats the problem. Prob 1.5 hours to change the VCU + fits new bearings etc
 
jamesd2009 said:
Prop off.still vibrating like mad.what next?
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Are both sections off! If not then it could be the fluid in the VCU is lumped at the bottom and without the drive through the plates there is nothing to spread it about. If the complete prop is off then I'd be looking at the lower engine tie bar as these go soft or the inner CV joints can cause vibration under acceleration this can be exaggerated by the lower tie bar being soft!!
 
Full prop is off front to back.only very slight movement in drive shafts.where are the joints and tie bars your talking about!?thanks
 
jamesd2009 said:
Full prop is off front to back.only very slight movement in drive shafts.where are the joints and tie bars your talking about!?thanks
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The lower tie bar goes between the sump and subframe. The large subframe end is known to go soft. The front inner CV joints can feel ok but under load can stiffen causing vibration.
 
Well tie barseems ok.joints on drive shaft seem ok.little side and in play but only a mm.why would itget worse withthe prop removed?
 
jamesd2009 said:
Well tie barseems ok.joints on drive shaft seem ok.little side and in play but only a mm.why would itget worse withthe prop removed?
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The tie bar fault does get worse with the prop removed as the engine can move at the bottom freely instead of the prop taking some of the load!! Are you 100% sure the tie bar as in good nick? They go soft after a couple of years but the prop masks it!! Us MG boys fit Poly tie bar bushed as they are total C__p!!
 
I have a Freelander that I've been driving for the past year and it's developed a heavy vibration under power. I wonder if it's what you have got?

I put mine down to a worn RH inner CV joint and it's easy to diagnose without getting underneath....It shakes the whole car under power in any gear but is easier to spot in a high gear. Use the speed to sway the car from side to side (if safe to do so). As the car rolls, the inner CV has to deal with a greater angle on the inside of the turn...this is what makes the vibration. If I sway the other way it's quiet.

Is that what you have?
 
Rockhopper3 said:
I have a Freelander that I've been driving for the past year and it's developed a heavy vibration under power. I wonder if it's what you have got?

I put mine down to a worn RH inner CV joint and it's easy to diagnose without getting underneath....It shakes the whole car under power in any gear but is easier to spot in a high gear. Use the speed to sway the car from side to side (if safe to do so). As the car rolls, the inner CV has to deal with a greater angle on the inside of the turn...this is what makes the vibration. If I sway the other way it's quiet.

Is that what you have?
Click to expand...

I reckon so!! The joint is a spider joint that do fail this way. I still reckon it's a combination of inner joint and tie bar bush soft!!
 
jamesd2009 said:
Ill get the mechanic to check it out.is it bad to still drive it?
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The joint is likely stiffening up under load so the added load is going into the bearings in the box or IRD! This fault is quite common on the 1.8 Rover 45 as they share many components with the Freelander!!
 
So guys can i drive it or not?im gonna get it sorted in a de days but need it for work til then.50mile round trip each day
 
guys does anyone htink it could be the ird?im panicing that it could be that.i jacked it up yesterday and teh front wheels move freely
 
the bell engineering site says that a failed drive shaft inner joint can cause IRD failure.............
best not to drive it i guess ???
 
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