BAd Vibration

little update.had the undertray off and found the rear lower engine mount had huge play.could move engine freely side to side and up and down easily by hand.new one going in today so fingers crossed

jamesd2009 said:

little update.had the undertray off and found the rear lower engine mount had huge play.could move engine freely side to side and up and down easily by hand.new one going in today so fingers crossed

Click to expand...

These are available in polyurathane which is much more durable

damn.just paid out 80 euro for one from landrover

This is the large end bush insert. Much better and cheaper than the LR bush.

MG ZR ZS TD 105 120 160 180 K SERIES POLYURETHANE ENGINE MOUNT STEADY BUSHES | eBay

Cheers for that.Well the landrover mount went in.The vibration isn't as bad as it was but is still there a bit and i can hear it now too.I'm assured that it isn't gearbox/ird/engine related but that i do have a bit of play in my drivers cv joints.any other ideas or should i just get the joints replaced and another tracking job done?

Question.if th cv joints were worn,would the vibration caused by them get worse as you go along or are they bad from the start? It started vibrating again on the way home after fitting the mount

The inboard CV joints can stiffen up under load. They are not true CV joints but a sliding trapeziod joint. As the joint wears it stiffens up at extremes of travel. This can be more evident if the rear prop is removed as it increases weight transfer on acceleration, but running in FWD also allows the bottom of the engine to rock rearward on the lower bush instead of the prop taking some of the flex out the system. As the engine rocks the driveshafts flex more than normal which the joint doesn't like to do as it's worn!! If that makes sense?

A stiff vcu also puts more strain thru the cvs and shows up as knocking and vibration if there's any slight issues with them. New vcu and they're fine again!

Thanks for all the suggestions.i ran it fwd only and the vibration was still there.engine mount replaced and prop cal in and its still there a bit.think ill replace those joints now.

Would ibe aswell off changing the drive shaft? How hard is it to do

Right well agarage number 2 yesterday.They drained the transfer box oil to check for metal and removed the driveshafts.The bearings at the end of the driveshaft going into the transfer box had no grease left in them so they were regreased and the gaiter fitted correctly.Fingers crossed now

Hope its fixed - keep us updated please

Me too.Its been a long investigation.Im collecting it tonight so will update

Right.Got the freelander back afetr a gearbox/transfer box oil change, driveshafts removed and bearings regreased and all put back together.The result . . . . . 40 miles so far and no vibration NOw i just need to sort my injectors and squeaky front left suspension and ill be ok Thanks to everyone for your suggestions and advise in this thread.Its very appreciated

So they re-greased the joints inside the rubber gaitors at each end of the drive shafts ??

Might be a good preventative maintenance jobby ???

Indeed.The guy who fitted my clutch and flywheel only cable tied on the gaiters instead of metal clips so the grease had leaked out and dried out the joints.

why did the guy open them up ??
surely its not necessary ?? at least on my FL1 i did the job without disturbing the shaft (except to remove the end from the gearbox of course)

Maybe he had a hunch. That's why he opened them up. Good job he did because I would say that was the problem for sure. I was even thinking of lubing mine before renewing to see if it helped. I was thinking of keyhole lubrication! Make a small hole near the driveshaft part of the boot (so centrifugal doesnt effect it) and spray chainlube inside. Contact cleaner around the hole and put a patch on.???

he saw the grease build up on the side of the gearbox from where it was leaking out of the bearing.He took the shafts out and the bearing was dry.Its still going strong anyway.100miles later.
Would chainlube work?I thought it had to be the thick heavy duty grease for them

Sorry - i was referring to the guy who changed the clutch !!