Freelander 1 Automatic to Manual gearbox swap - engine cranks, no start

Hello everyone. I'm hoping some of you can help me with problems I'm having with a 2000 L314 TD4...

The Jatco automatic gearbox on the car failed and I decided to swap to a manual drivetrain from a totaled 2001 TD4 I bought a few months ago. Everything went well until this afternoon when I wanted to start the car and drive it over my inspection pit to attach the exhaust and torque up the driveshaft.

The engine will crank, but the car won't start, and I can't hear the fuel pump running. I measured the voltage at the fuel pump's connector, and I'm not getting any voltage. I tried to wire the pump directly to 12v, and while the pump runs, the car still won't fire up. If I spray starting fluid in the intake the engine will start and run for half a minute then die.

I used the DDE, EWS module and key chip from the donor car. I've done this in the past with BMW's with no issues whatsoever (swapped a 2.5L M54B25 in my wife's old 316ti). I'm 100% sure I don't have a computer / immobilizer issue. I wired up the clutch pedal sensor to the correct pin on the DDE as well as the "comb" connectors on the harness, just like it was wired on the manual car. I did not wire the reverse light switch or the connector to the rear of the gearbox (light gray connector with two pins, green/brown and green wires coming out of it) witch I think (not sure tough) is for hill descend control.

I also used the donor car's complete drivetrain (engine, manual getrag gearbox with transfer case) and I know the engine run fine because I started it up before taking apart the donor car.



What could be the issue? Why is power not getting to the fuel pump? Can anyone help? Has anyone done this swap before? ANY help is greatly appreciated...

P.S. I noticed the relay box (triangular one under the hood) from the manual car had an extra relay - a black one, all the way near the windshield, witch the automatic car's relay box does not have....

I think you may be onto it. I out a manual engine from a donor car into my auto.
To drain the fuel on the manual I bridged the fuel pump relay in the engine bay box.
To activate the fuel pump in my auto the relay was in the dash fuse panel.
As it is cranking you have the immobiliser correct, if no pump is running and no feed you have sommat missing!!

Can't think why this would be changed by a gearbox change but will have a look at circuits. Maybe difference in engine loom??

Which engine loom did you install?

Got it figured.

So when installing the clutch pump, I tripped the red roll-over / crash sensor thing, and that cut off the fuel supply completely. I wasn't getting power at the front pump or the one in the boot.

To sum it up, when working on the clutch pump, break pump or under the triangular fuse box, be careful not to touch this part - the red one my finger is pointing at.



If you trip it, it will cut power to both fuel pumps. It can be reset by simply pushing on it. The top is made of rubber, and there's a switch under the rubber cap. I pushed on it, it clicked and the car stated up right away.

andyfreelandy said:

Which engine loom did you install?

Click to expand...

Managed to figure it out - it was the airbag / rollover sensor. I used the loom that came with the engine from the donor car (manual).
The car runs now, everything works except for hill descend contol, temp gauge and the tachometer. Hill descend doesn't work because I haven't figured out where to wire the switch on the gearbox yet. But I can't figure out why the tachometer and temp gauge won't work...
Is the tack wired up to the automatic transmission computer on autos by any chance?
Anybody have the pin-out for the gearbox computer C0932?

Wiring for auto connector is on the Rave manual circuits. I found the pin for isolating the torque convertor this way when doing some tests.

andyfreelandy said:

Wiring for auto connector is on the Rave manual circuits. I found the pin for isolating the torque convertor this way when doing some tests.

Click to expand...

Yes, I found the pinout for all gearbox connectors - a helpful forum member posted 2 PDF files in my other thread.

I can't seem to get rave to work. It launches Adobe Acrobat 4? and only displays a summary and table of contents... I can't find any diagrams... I'm probably doing something wrong.

Thing is, it seems that none of the connectors have a reverse output line... so I'm going to look for the pinout to the CCU.... perhaps the reverse light switch is routed trough there. I tried checking the wiring harness I pulled from the manual car but it's a mess, and I was pressed for time so I couldn't remove the harness in one piece. I had to cut quite a few wires so that's a dead end.

A definite solution would be to compare both harnesses, but since one of them is in pieces, it won't be an easy task.

UPDATE!
Ok lads, great news! I managed to get the tachometer working as well as the temp gauge! This is how:

After looking at C0932 (gearbox computer connector) I noticed two canbus lines (canbus low and canbus high) going into it. That got me thinking... why would it need TWO sets of wires for canbus? Devices can only use one low and one high canbus line, any more are pointless... unless... it's passing canbus signals to another module. So I noticed two of the canbus wires are coming from the DDE (digital diesel electronics - ECU) into the transmision ECU, and two originate from the transmission ECU and go into the car via the main harness. So I pulled my instrument cluster (again) and noticed identical yellow/brown (canbus low) and yellow/black (canbus high) wires going into the purple connector. I grabbed my mutimeter, and using continuity mode tested out the extra wires coming out of C0932... bingo! The wires from pins 13 and 34 go from the transmision computer to the IKE (instrument cluster - sorry for the weird terminology, I'm used to working on BMWs) while pins 12 and 33 are canbus wires that originate from the DDE.



Not wanting to cut any wires (I want option to easily re-install an automatic powertrain in the car later If I want to) I made some wire jumpers out of stainless steel wires and bridged pins 33 and 34 (canbus high / yellow black) as well as 12 and 13 (canbus low / yellow brown) so that the cluster can get information from the DDE without passing trough an automatic transmission computer witch is no longer there.

Now both the tachometer and the temp gauge work correctly.

All that's left to figure out is the switch at the back of the gearbox with the gray connector (hill descend contro?) and the black switch at the front of the gearbox (reverse light switch) and the swap is complete.

I'll post pictures and solutions to the problems I encountered here, so others seeking to do an automatic to manual swap can follow a guide.

I was going to suggest looking at the CAN wires. The TCM does use the CAN for data, but must also pass it through, which you've now done. A
Well done.

UPDATE 2: Got the hill descend assist switch on the gear shift lever connected.
The automatic transmission freelander has a yellow button behind the shifter lever for hill descend assist. The manual has a switch built into the shift lever for the same function. To connect the shift lever, simply locate the purple and white wires on the manual shifter (you will need the connector).



Then locate the same white and purple wires on the connector for the hill assist button. This connector has 4 wires - the aforementioned white and purple that we need, as well as a black and red wire. Disregard black and red, they provide power to the light inside the button. They're not needed.



Cut purple and black, and connect them to the wires leading to the switch on the manual shifter lever.



And that's all there is to it.

The reverse light switch for the automatic is also located in the electronics found inside the automatic shifter lever. I haven't identified it yet, but I'll get to it next week and post pictures. Right now I put everything back together and took the car on a long drive. It performed very well, apart from the power steering pump witch seems to be done for. No power steering unless I rev the engine up. I'll have to take the pump off the automatic drivetrain tomorrow, install it on this powertrain, then source a spare (I like to have spares for everything).