Disco 2 Auto box problems

Hi all,

My disco has been going into limp mode on and off now for around a year. I've had a couple of diagnostic checks but as usual they aren't conclusive. The last one said something about a solenoid2 problem. The battery and gearbox oil level was fine so I've been back to square one again!

However, now I've got a new problem and am wondering if it's connected?
Basically she is getting "stuck" in gear. I will stop at say a junction but when I pull off it seems to be in third gear ( not in limp mode though ) but as I start to move it jumps into first gear then carries on through the gears as normal. It also does the same if I go from reverse to drive. Again this isn't all the time but it's getting very regular!
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated?

I will take it that's a "no" then!

change the oil

Possibly a sticking valve in the valve block. Change the fluid and filter and stick some Lucas in it. That may sort it. But may need a couple of changes and doses of Lucas.

Cheers guys, could that be connected to the limp mode problem if that is the case?

Mine did this, an oil change did sort it!!

Cheers R1nut.
Excuse my ignorance but was is the "Lucas". I'm assuming a lubricant or freeing agent?

The limp mode saga continues!
New xyz switch, wasn't that, new gearbox loom, wasn't that!
This is a picture of the fault code.

Every time they tried to reset the fault it just made a "click" inside the gearbox and the fault wouldn't go away. Now it quite often getting stuck in gear and won't change then all of a sudden jumps into the correct gear. Does this sound like a dodgy valve (like wammers said) inside the box?

This should have been the first thing to do cos you could have saved the money for the XYZ switch then, the fact that the loom is replaced lets only the solenoid as suspect and that's changeable without removing the gearbox, you need THT000020 or a known good second hand valve block

Thanks sierrafery,
I didn't buy the switch or loom, we just plugged the new ones in to eliminate them but once they were found to be ok we put the old ones back on.
Is this a DIY fix or do I need a lift or pit to gain more room to work on?

Did the oil & filter get changed?

Bennehboy said:

Did the oil & filter get changed?

Click to expand...

Yes, about a year ago I had it done.

This will probably be useful -> http://twrite.org/shogunnew/files/jason/4HP22EH_ValveBody/4HP22EH-Valvebody.html

To be honest the box I was going to overhaul I sold on to Ashcrofts so I never dropped the valve block out - I'm nit sure if you can pull the shift solenoid with the valve block in situ - it looks as though you may be able to. Useful resource above anyway.

Thanks bennehboy, looks a little too complicated for me to attempt!!

I'm also having similar trouble although mine is stuck 4th and that's it other than reverse.
It's giving "solenoid valve 2 check (S/C to +12v) on the diagnostic.
Any suggestions?

Erase that code, unplug the connector from the solenoid block and read the codes again...you should get open circuit for all the solenoids which means that the solenoid 2 is in short circuit but if you get the same code for that solenoid with connector unplugged it's a short in the loom.

sierrafery said:

Erase that code, unplug the connector from the solenoid block and read the codes again...you should get open circuit for all the solenoids which means that the solenoid 2 is in short circuit but if you get the same code for that solenoid with connector unplugged it's a short in the loom.

Click to expand...

Ok done that, no mention of valve 2 at all. New solenoid required?

in this case it seems that yes...but what kind of diagnoistic tool do you use cos you should have got open circuit on all the valves with connector unplugged...if it's some generic obd2 reader better not rely on it fos such kind of work and find a dedicated one

sierrafery said:

in this case it seems that yes...but what kind of diagnoistic tool do you use cos you should have got open circuit on all the valves with connector unplugged...if it's some generic obd2 reader better not rely on it fos such kind of work and find a dedicated one

Click to expand...

After code clear it read "solenoid valve lockup clutch monitoring (s/c to ground or o/c)" and " solenoid valve 1 monitoring (s/c to ground or o/c)"
I'm using a icarsoft unit for Landrovers

that icarsoft unit is everything but not for a D2 IMO...and the erratic fault codes are the evidence.... with unplugged valves a proper tool should see o/c on all 3 valves that's a fact....that obd2 protocol doesnt even makes the difference between o/c and s/c to ground, i'd not rely on that