Arghhhh, All At Once....

If you look in device manager, you should have a comm port showing. Go to settings and it should tell you what number it is.
I normally force it to be COMM1 or COMM2 when using USB to serial converters as a lot of the software I use only recognises COMM1 and COMM2. Legacy from when PC's had inbuilt ports.

Wazzajnr said:

If you look in device manager, you should have a comm port showing. Go to settings and it should tell you what number it is.
I normally force it to be COMM1 or COMM2 when using USB to serial converters as a lot of the software I use only recognises COMM1 and COMM2. Legacy from when PC's had inbuilt ports.

Click to expand...

Ok, I have identified port 2 (the others appear as 3 & 4) so I assume the No1 port is either the VGA or the HDMI. Thank you.

Computers be the work of the devil! Evil spirits are they

Doo said:

Ok, I have identified port 2 (the others appear as 3 & 4) so I assume the No1 port is either the VGA or the HDMI. Thank you.

Computers be the work of the devil! Evil spirits are they

Click to expand...

Quite often, the Bluetooth software on a laptop will reserve many ports so when you plug in the USB to serial converter it says port 1 is in use. Not a problem to re-assign it to the converter though.
As I said earlier, if you install teamviewer, I could walk you through it remotely. Only problem is, I don't know the software you're using so I'd be working blind. Sure I'd be able to sort it though.

Wazzajnr said:

Quite often, the Bluetooth software on a laptop will reserve many ports so when you plug in the USB to serial converter it says port 1 is in use. Not a problem to re-assign it to the converter though.
As I said earlier, if you install teamviewer, I could walk you through it remotely. Only problem is, I don't know the software you're using so I'd be working blind. Sure I'd be able to sort it though.

Click to expand...

My old Win 7 Acer has no teeth of the blue variety. I have team viewer on one of my laptops, but fairly sure it's one of the hopeless Win 10's and I HATE Win10 because Micropox and their bearded virgins have cocked up what was an excellent system that was Win7. I digress....

I downloaded this http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56 which looks very simple to use. I'll give it a go and see how I get on. If I can't get it done, I'll get my mate Cal to install team viewer and give you a shout if that's ok?

Thank you one and all for all the input, cheek and all

your welcome, good luck!

Doo said:

My old Win 7 Acer has no teeth of the blue variety. I have team viewer on one of my laptops, but fairly sure it's one of the hopeless Win 10's and I HATE Win10 because Micropox and their bearded virgins have cocked up what was an excellent system that was Win7. I digress....

I downloaded this http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56 which looks very simple to use. I'll give it a go and see how I get on. If I can't get it done, I'll get my mate Cal to install team viewer and give you a shout if that's ok?

Thank you one and all for all the input, cheek and all

Click to expand...

No problem. I'll download it myself tonight and have a look around to familiarise myself with it. I'll be on site over the next few days so I might not be available instantly but I can normally find half an hour somewhere during the day.

Am in the car, p!ss poor wifi signal, but will try to upload photo of a million faults. Unlocked the system and I "know" there are no leaks because she's still sitting the same height I left her at on Saturday. However, the pump going some, but something's not right as the tank would appear to be empty and not charging. What have I done (or not done)??

Got all this nonsense:

2 : Pressure signal constantly high
5 : Air supply leak
6 : Target heights incorrect
7 : Vehicle has moved
0 : Cannot lower FL
1 : Cannot lower FR
2 : Cannot lower RL
3 : Cannot lower RR
6 : FA:64_Hidden
1 : FR valve stuck open
4 : Inlet valve stuck open
5 : Exhaust valve stuck open
6 : FB:64_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck closed
1 : FR valve stuck closed
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed
7 : F8:128_Hidden
7 : Vehicle has moved
7 : FA:128_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
7 : FC:128_Hidden



Edit, the bonnet is open as I am using an inverter to power my laptop. Do I need it closed? All other doors closed.

Doo said:

Am in the car, p!ss poor wifi signal, but will try to upload photo of a million faults. Unlocked the system and I "know" there are no leaks because she's still sitting the same height I left her at on Saturday. However, the pump going some, but something's not right as the tank would appear to be empty and not charging. What have I done (or not done)??

Got all this nonsense:

2 : Pressure signal constantly high
5 : Air supply leak
6 : Target heights incorrect
7 : Vehicle has moved
0 : Cannot lower FL
1 : Cannot lower FR
2 : Cannot lower RL
3 : Cannot lower RR
6 : FA:64_Hidden
1 : FR valve stuck open
4 : Inlet valve stuck open
5 : Exhaust valve stuck open
6 : FB:64_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck closed
1 : FR valve stuck closed
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed
7 : F8:128_Hidden
7 : Vehicle has moved
7 : FA:128_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
7 : FC:128_Hidden



Edit, the bonnet is open as I am using an inverter to power my laptop. Do I need it closed? All other doors closed.

Click to expand...

Yep, I think the bonnet needs to be shut. That's probably why you're getting the valves stuck closed messages.

Bear in mind, with your valves in place, it might have seen movement with the valves shut and see this as a leak.
Have you tried clearing the faults?

Hi, I cleared the faults, moved the car in a circle and all it came up with was fault 7 car has moved.

I wonder if the pump is not as it should be?? Perhaps my reed valves are incorrect or some such. It's whirring away, goes on & off and I can hear the valve block clicking when I turn off the ignition. However, no movement up or down when I push the button. It's responding and the up lights flash for up, full height also shows the arrow on the dash, but no air!

Just checked by disconnecting air pipe and pump seems to be blowing well enough. However, there is a cyclic tick from one of the valves. Checked faults and still only saying vehicle has moved! I'm going to let her cool down as I down want the pump to fry. I'll come back to her later.

So, parked up, sensor heights a bit skew whiff, FL61 FR63, RL69 RR61. This was after I toyed with them as they were even worse! I could hear each valve click & she went down on each corner as I clicked "down" so I'm guessing that's good. Still no faults except 7 vehicle has moved. The other thing is there are five boxes with legends F8, F9, FA, FB, FC. in the F9 box it shows 128, but the others show 0. Any ideas?

Doo said:

Am in the car, p!ss poor wifi signal, but will try to upload photo of a million faults. Unlocked the system and I "know" there are no leaks because she's still sitting the same height I left her at on Saturday. However, the pump going some, but something's not right as the tank would appear to be empty and not charging. What have I done (or not done)??

Got all this nonsense:

2 : Pressure signal constantly high
5 : Air supply leak
6 : Target heights incorrect
7 : Vehicle has moved
0 : Cannot lower FL
1 : Cannot lower FR
2 : Cannot lower RL
3 : Cannot lower RR
6 : FA:64_Hidden
1 : FR valve stuck open
4 : Inlet valve stuck open
5 : Exhaust valve stuck open
6 : FB:64_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck closed
1 : FR valve stuck closed
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed
7 : F8:128_Hidden
7 : Vehicle has moved
7 : FA:128_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
7 : FC:128_Hidden



Edit, the bonnet is open as I am using an inverter to power my laptop. Do I need it closed? All other doors closed.

Click to expand...

I've never used the software but I believe when you have that many faults it is usually bad comms to the EAS module. I think there is some flashing green box or something for comms? Should be solid green? @Saint.V8 or @wammers have played with the software.

Grrrrrr said:

I've never used the software but I believe when you have that many faults it is usually bad comms to the EAS module. I think there is some flashing green box or something for comms? Should be solid green? @Saint.V8 or @wammers have played with the software.

Click to expand...

I've faffed with it, I also found my rear right was set 7 lower than the left and the front left was 4 higher than the right, so that added to the look of off centre. I've set them all to even (front 64, 93, 110 & 136 and the rears 73, 92, 104 & 124). There's a good chance I may need to faff some more, but I'm keen to see if she loses that "drunk" look she's always had.

Right, as to the no lift, it's possible I hadn't shut the tailgate, that and bonnet open she may have been on a hiding to nothing. However, in my defence, the laptop was hiding the dash from me. Off to buy some beers using wife's car and hope she's cool enough to try again. Have to say though, great bit of software

OK, With any doors open, it won't move. This is to stop you dropping it down onto a door when off roading.
The fronts should be within 5 of each other ideally the rears not as critical but the closer you can get them the better. The only way is to slacken them and move the POT within the constraints of the bolt holes or bend the arms a little. (BE VERY CAREFUL OF BENDING ARMS, I BROKE THE FIXING LUGS ON MINE DOING THIS!!! I think the plastic was weak as it looked like they'd been there since new)

If the compressor is blowing well (Finger over outlet should be hard to stop the airflow after a few seconds) then try running the car with the door open for 10-15 minutes. This should put a good charge in the tank so that when you close the door and press up, you should easily see movement. From memory, I think it takes 15-20 minutes to completely fill the tank but to test this, it's better with the door open or it might keep levelling and not get to pressure.

I'll get the software in a bit and see what it does and if I can offer any more advice.

If you have tee pieces and a pressure gauge, I'd be inclined to fit one in the tank line and see what pressure you are actually getting to.

Also, the thermal switch should protect the pump motor. If the seal is duff then it will run until the motor gets too hot then cut out. Most motor windings are rated at 75 deg C but will actually not break down until well over 100 deg so although it feels hot, it might not be as bad as you think.

@Doo, we were frequently told George was the bees knees, best thing since bread was sectional...
Do you take sauce with your words?

myfirstl322 said:

@Doo, we were frequently told George was the bees knees, best thing since bread was sectional...
Do you take sauce with your words?

Click to expand...

Not at all, I STILL maintain George is the bee's kneeeeeeee'z, after all, she's still going. I think it is I who is fecked

Pump going for the record, but not a peep of air going to the tank! I can hear one of the valves clicking in time to the beat, like the Bee Gee's (as opposed to knee's) so I wonder if there is a diaphragm or some such because I know there is nothing getting to that storage tank.

NO faults found this time round and she's still pretty much the same height I set her at on Saturday when I did it manually.

Confused dot buggeration

Digs aside I do feel for you, particularly in your current health, I just wish I could offer you something other than mirth.
Plenty good hands here for practical support, it's not like your typing into the Chevy UK forum or any such miserable thang, you can wait days there just for a single comma.

myfirstl322 said:

Digs aside I do feel for you, particularly in your current health, I just wish I could offer you something other than mirth.
Plenty good hands here for practical support, it's not like your typing into the Chevy UK forum or any such miserable thang, you can wait days there just for a single comma.

Click to expand...

I know, these guys rock, they really doo... Best forum I've been on, ever. Informative, properly helpful and great craic. Wife was off today and she was really nice as she can see I am almost in tears of pain and frustration. Still, it could be worse, I could have a Freelander.....

**shudders**

Doo said:

I know, these guys rock, they really doo... Best forum I've been on, ever. Informative, properly helpful and great craic. Wife was off today and she was really nice as she can see I am almost in tears of pain and frustration. Still, it could be worse, I could have a Freelander.....

**shudders**

Click to expand...

Maybe you should buy a Freelander and park it outside your house, then every morning your physical pain would disappear for while when you realise what you've gone and done!

Doo said:

Not at all, I STILL maintain George is the bee's kneeeeeeee'z, after all, she's still going. I think it is I who is fecked

Pump going for the record, but not a peep of air going to the tank! I can hear one of the valves clicking in time to the beat, like the Bee Gee's (as opposed to knee's) so I wonder if there is a diaphragm or some such because I know there is nothing getting to that storage tank.

NO faults found this time round and she's still pretty much the same height I set her at on Saturday when I did it manually.

Confused dot buggeration

Click to expand...

Yes, there is a diaphragm. I've uploaded a file that gives a great writeup of how it works with some diagrams showing the air paths under different circumstances. This should give you an idea of what's stopping the air.