Anyone know what causes this

I was driving the freelander this morning and all of a sudden the car seemed to really struggle to move. The SRS and hill decent lights were on and the dash trip meter was displaying 4 then F. This is the second time this has happened but last time all the dash lights were on and the temp gauge was flicking back and forth. Anyone got any idea's. Thanks

Done some investigating and some suggestions are as follows.
1. solenoids 2-4 on the valve body need replacing ( where ever they are )
2. The Auto gearbox cable needs adjusting. Freelander - GEAR SELECTION PROBLEMS - VARIOUS - Land Rover
3. Loose electrical connection near battery / ECU
4.Tranny fluid needs changing
5.And finally Gearbox is fuct so change it.

Hope it aint no 5.

Doe's any of that sound right to the experts on here ???

F + 4 is common enough for a gearbox fault but since you have also had other issues with warning lights and temp gauge fluctuating you would think it's an electrical issue rather than gearbox itself.

Bad connection at gearbox multiplug has come up before but can't see that affecting instruments etc.

Failing ignition switch perhaps??

I forgot to mention that once you turn the ignition off and back on all is fine. Its been over 2 months since it happened last. Could the battery be at fault or the connectors as the battery does struggle when there's a slight frost but its been tested and the garage said it was fine. I had a similar fault on my Zafira B and never found the bloody cause so got shot of it by part ex for this freelander. Now its gonna bite me in the ass lol

Cycling the ignition on and off is just resetting the auto's ecu and clearing the f + 4 limp mode (defaults to 4th gear).

Ignition switch or some other cause of low volts was a hunch because you say instruments affected which aren't normally associated with the f + 4.

Think you might be on the right track chaser. I will get the battery and alternator checked out to see if they are producing the right voltages. Doe's anyone know what voltages they should be producing while the engine is running. Don't know what to do about the ignition switch though. Maybe just play with the plugs in the steering column.

Don't worry is my advice. Mine also displays f4 occasionally. I've owned my FL from new and it's a 2004. Simply turning off key and turning on again gets rid of it. Garage looked at it when under warranty and said it wasn't a recognised code! As it was rare and intermittent it never done it for technicians. I've lived with this quirk for 7 years and it hasn't bit me in the arse.........yet

I had F4 on my 2002 auto TD4 a few times and it turned out to be a faulty battery. Plonked in a new one and been fine since.

Cheers for the replies. Iv'e been told by a mechanic friend that another cause is rain/ damp getting into the loom plugs near the fuse box under the bonnet. Ive checked these and one connector was sat in a damp patch where water had collected along with leaves and crap. Ive since unblocked all the drain holes and nooks and crannies have been cleared of leaves and gave it a liberal coating of WD40.
Just need to wait for rain (which wont be long I'm sure ) to test it
On the battery side, Iv'e always had my doubts about the battery as its been very sluggish in cold weather. Almost to the point of being unable to turn it over but Iv'e had it checked twice now and both garages have said its fine. If the fault returns I will try a new battery. Can anyone recommend a make for a Freelander TD4 ?

I had a similar problem on my Zafira. Driving along and dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree, needles going everywhere and a judder as though loss of all power.....got power back but lights and needles messing around.

Parked it up, tried to start and nothing and had to bump start it - turned out to be a fecked starter motor...got it replaced and everything was fine.

Psycho_uk said:

I had a similar problem on my Zafira. Driving along and dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree, needles going everywhere and a judder as though loss of all power.....got power back but lights and needles messing around.

Parked it up, tried to start and nothing and had to bump start it - turned out to be a fecked starter motor...got it replaced and everything was fine.

Click to expand...

That would not of been your starter motor that caused that!!! You have been fooled by your garage!!

facer said:

Think you might be on the right track chaser. I will get the battery and alternator checked out to see if they are producing the right voltages. Doe's anyone know what voltages they should be producing while the engine is running. Don't know what to do about the ignition switch though. Maybe just play with the plugs in the steering column.

Click to expand...

Battery should be between 12-14 volts with ign off and when running your alternator should be about 14 volts

Try a leak off test aswell to test the injectors as they are on a rail if one is faulty it will cause all 4 to go. This might be the power loss and it's free so why not??

Well I know its been a while since this happened but the fault was traced to a faulty brake light switch. I was told it was a common fault. The bloke who fixed it said that the switch and brake lights are checked by the ECU every time you brake and if both are not sending signals back to the ecu it throws a wobbly. Anyway he changed it and its been perfect since. Just thought I would let you know. BTW it cost £8 for a new switch.

Although it doesn't affect me in any way (I run a defender,) it so nice to see people coming back to let everyone know what the cure was in the end.

Top marks to this man.