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It is, but access can be a right sod.....
L322 Any Electrical Gurus
- Thread starter DISCO2RS4
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holidaychicken
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Bolt on bolt off yes, but location I found to be a bar steward as it's right next to the A/C pipes that I don't want to remove and next to the inner wing so you are limited to how long and how short your socket can be.
I managed to get a socket on it but then couldn't turn it so i think it may be a job for two people but I was all out of f***s
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holidaychicken
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Well as a bit of an update, and if this is really one of the cures for the startup rattle I should do a how to, but changing the NRVs behind the vanos solenoids seems to have cured my start up rattle 
i only fitted them yesterday but i have tried starting it from both hot and cold and so far its a really soft sound when starting as opposed to the sound of somebody throwing a metal filing cabinet down the stairs as i had before every time i started it from warm.
it made a really loud clatter when i first started it and since then it's been really quiet.
To change them i made a 32 mm deep socket by welding a cut down plumbers box spanner to a length of 35 mm ID tube but it's a really easy job to do. The correct BMW tool is available off the bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321169873895
If it's still really good in a few weeks, i'll write it up although i didn't take any pics as was rushing.
i only fitted them yesterday but i have tried starting it from both hot and cold and so far its a really soft sound when starting as opposed to the sound of somebody throwing a metal filing cabinet down the stairs as i had before every time i started it from warm.
it made a really loud clatter when i first started it and since then it's been really quiet.
To change them i made a 32 mm deep socket by welding a cut down plumbers box spanner to a length of 35 mm ID tube but it's a really easy job to do. The correct BMW tool is available off the bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321169873895
If it's still really good in a few weeks, i'll write it up although i didn't take any pics as was rushing.
holidaychicken
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Update !, having not started the car for a week, my first start yesterday was greeted with lots of clatter and i have had it several times today. I think it may be better sometimes but not cured..
i may have another go at changing the cam chain tensioner but i haven't seen many successes of this curing the rattle.
i am just delaying the inevitable vanos, cam chain, guides rebuild but it will have to a significant delay due to lack of funds...........
i may have another go at changing the cam chain tensioner but i haven't seen many successes of this curing the rattle.
i am just delaying the inevitable vanos, cam chain, guides rebuild but it will have to a significant delay due to lack of funds...........
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All the guides and etc can set you back close to £500 .......
To ease burden you are more than welcome to borrow my cam and timing locking kit....that'll save you another £200-400 (depending on where you get it from).....(NOTE: I dont usually loan this out due to its cost but for you I'll make the exception)
To ease burden you are more than welcome to borrow my cam and timing locking kit....that'll save you another £200-400 (depending on where you get it from).....(NOTE: I dont usually loan this out due to its cost but for you I'll make the exception)
holidaychicken
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Thanks Ant, that would be a massive help in the finance department.
I have read loads of BMW posts and I could probably leave the vanos almost indefinitely but you know what I'm like when things are bugging me.
I have read loads of BMW posts and I could probably leave the vanos almost indefinitely but you know what I'm like when things are bugging me.
holidaychicken
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As another update, i changed my cam chain tensioner today after finally reaching the cap with a deep 19 mm socket and a swivel bar. Removed the two dip stick tube nuts that fit to the cam cover and managed to slide my arm down the side of the engine and inner wing. Removing the dipstick tube completely would be a lot easier but i have never managed to find the bottom bolt.
It only took a slight twist and it was loose and i managed to undo it completely with my fingers. I compared it to the new one for spring length and it was identical and looked quite new so guessing somebody had already changed it in a hope to cure the rattle and the news is, it didn't make any difference which is what I guessed.
Couple of pics below in case somebody stumbles on this when trying to change the cam chain tensioner but don't want to hijack this thread any more than i have already.
The pictures have been rotated for some reason when i uploaded them but i was standing on a block of wood by the front offside wheel with the car in access height.
I would think a swivel 3/8 drive ratchet and deep 19 mm socket would be better but i only gave it a very slight turn with the bar and it was loose.
When i replaced the new tensioner, it is held in the compressed position by a clip that will release with the slightest compression of the piston so when it was in position i gave it a quick push and the spring released and then i replaced the retaining cap and tightened it so i knew the piston was released, it is supposed to happen automatically but i have heard of it not doing so and then the fragile plastic cam chain guides breaking.
To tighten the cap i used the same swivel bar but i had to take the socket it off a and turn it 90 degrees to find a place where it would go on the cap and then do the same to tighten it further as access is really tight.
It only took a slight twist and it was loose and i managed to undo it completely with my fingers. I compared it to the new one for spring length and it was identical and looked quite new so guessing somebody had already changed it in a hope to cure the rattle and the news is, it didn't make any difference which is what I guessed.
Couple of pics below in case somebody stumbles on this when trying to change the cam chain tensioner but don't want to hijack this thread any more than i have already.
The pictures have been rotated for some reason when i uploaded them but i was standing on a block of wood by the front offside wheel with the car in access height.
I would think a swivel 3/8 drive ratchet and deep 19 mm socket would be better but i only gave it a very slight turn with the bar and it was loose.
When i replaced the new tensioner, it is held in the compressed position by a clip that will release with the slightest compression of the piston so when it was in position i gave it a quick push and the spring released and then i replaced the retaining cap and tightened it so i knew the piston was released, it is supposed to happen automatically but i have heard of it not doing so and then the fragile plastic cam chain guides breaking.
To tighten the cap i used the same swivel bar but i had to take the socket it off a and turn it 90 degrees to find a place where it would go on the cap and then do the same to tighten it further as access is really tight.
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