anti roll bar.

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my truck

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hi chaps, check the condition of your anti roll bar as i had a constant banging noise going over bumps etc, the culprit is the colletts that are fitted to stop sideplay where the bushes and clamps are, these are made of plastic and mine have broke off. bought a second hand one and to my horror one side started to have a hair line crack in it. i now make steel ones to weld on and these will never break off, had the roll bar shot blasted and powder coated and its better than the standard landy part now. im thinking of doing these now and selling on a exchange bases along with blasting and powder coating subframes and all suspension components. what are your thoughts on this matter ? many thanks jason
 
Don't know about any colletts, I didn't see them on mine. Perhaps they popped out and that's what's banging on my '04 TD4?

Anyway I tried to renew the bushes hoping that would help but I destroyed the RHF bolt head trying to get it out.
My fault really because I didn't have the best tools. I faffed around underneath with a 1/4 drive. The problem is they are a silly 10mm head with a top hat washer so the socket doesn't slide over for a better fit as it comes out. Worst of all though is the bolt is too long, leaving a nice 10mm below to get rusted up over the years and not want to come through the captive nut.

I got the LH clamp off by using 3x12" extensions and a good 10mm socket and going at it from above. Knocking the socket hard down to get maximum bite on the head.Even then it was a worrying time wondering if the bolt heads would hold out long enough to work the bolt too and fro all the way out.

I still need to get one out. Going to try to get a nut or socket welded to it and try again perhaps with heat.

It's going back together with stainless bolts and copper anti-seize!
 
ok so we all break studs and bolts or do we here is the way to undo a bolt and a stud if you can get to the thread end, first of all take the good old wire brush and give it a good going at, then take a can of oil and put a drop on the now cleaned end, and when you start to undo it it will not "sieze" hope this helps you all
 
you do need decent hex sockets with flange head nuts or bolts ,http://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=l&a...g&rct=j&q=irwin rounded nut extractor&cad=rja
these extractor sockets are very good once a standard hex socket slips on flange heads

I'd never seen these before. When I went around to my local garage the owner had a set but unfortunately none of them fit, so I think it's down to either welding someting on top to get a grip on, or renewing the bushes and tacking the forward part of the clamp to the subframe and taking it from there.

ok so we all break studs and bolts or do we here is the way to undo a bolt and a stud if you can get to the thread end, first of all take the good old wire brush and give it a good going at, then take a can of oil and put a drop on the now cleaned end, and when you start to undo it it will not "sieze" hope this helps you all

Good advise thanks if you can reach the threads, but sadly in this case they are well hidden inside the subframe pressing....not so well that they can't get ****ted up and rusted but enough that I can't get to them.

Hopefully get it out tomorrow, and see if the new standard bushes have solved the clunking noise too.
 
they are called flange bolts and are std fitting they are slightly tapered so throw a cheap or poor socket off ,either his set is cheap **** ,worn out or he was trying to fitt 11mm on 10mm head ,
 
You need spot on tools to shift flange bolts, especially if they are rusted in!! But unfortunately even with new bushes the ARB will still slide side to side without the plastic retaining clamps. The easy cure is to fit worm drive clips each side of the bushes once the bar has been centered. I've used this trick on all my Freelanders past and present.
 
You need spot on tools to shift flange bolts, especially if they are rusted in!! But unfortunately even with new bushes the ARB will still slide side to side without the plastic retaining clamps. The easy cure is to fit worm drive clips each side of the bushes once the bar has been centered. I've used this trick on all my Freelanders past
and present.

Thanks for the heads-up. I recall seeing a flange on the ARB next to where the bush goes. I expected this to stop any side to side, but I'll try the clips too. Be nice to stop that stupid noise.
 
Thanks for the heads-up. I recall seeing a flange on the ARB next to where the bush goes. I expected this to stop any side to side, but I'll try the clips too. Be nice to stop that stupid noise.

It took me ages to work out what the banging was the first time I came across it. What I find odd is the bar slips to the near side?? And the fact that LR used a plastic thing in the first place!! But worm clips do work even if a little crude.
 
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