Alternator replacement tdv6 discovery 4

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Housewarmers

Member
Posts
15
Location
Newcastle
Hi again!
demented trying to get to the wiring on the alternator - got everything undone no problem EXCEPT I cannot get to the red wire on it.

is there a technique to this before I go insane?! Please
 
A flex-head 1/4" drive ratchet is better, the problem is the protective boot gets in the way. getting it onto the replacement is even more fun - there is a 'flag' on the terminal that needs to be in the correct position for everything to line up. If you have it on a lift or even just front wheel ramps, I'd strongly suggest unfastening the cable from the starter motor, that will give you enough slack to reduce the frustration...
 
A flex-head 1/4" drive ratchet is better, the problem is the protective boot gets in the way. getting it onto the replacement is even more fun - there is a 'flag' on the terminal that needs to be in the correct position for everything to line up. If you have it on a lift or even just front wheel ramps, I'd strongly suggest unfastening the cable from the starter motor, that will give you enough slack to reduce the frustration...
Thanks for that info… I’ll give it a try.
 
Thanks for that info… I’ll give it a try.
Update:
today finally got the bl👀dy red wire off!
the brown wire/plug fortunately ’fell’ out of the socket!
got the alternator out.
Bought new Denso 150amp from EuroCarParts (£294.00 on website) £186.00 with a mate of a mate with an account!

fitted it along with all parts removed in about 20minutes, still showing charge fault on dash.
also fuel gauge not working!
fitted new earth strap behind os wheel arch liner ( body to chassis) , fuel gauge back on.
charging system fault still on.

13.7v engine running
12.1v engine off which does seem to indicate that the alternator is charging.

does the system need a reset with a diagnostic tool possibly?
or……….?
 
Update:
today finally got the bl👀dy red wire off!
the brown wire/plug fortunately ’fell’ out of the socket!
got the alternator out.
Bought new Denso 150amp from EuroCarParts (£294.00 on website) £186.00 with a mate of a mate with an account!

fitted it along with all parts removed in about 20minutes, still showing charge fault on dash.
also fuel gauge not working!
fitted new earth strap behind os wheel arch liner ( body to chassis) , fuel gauge back on.
charging system fault still on.

13.7v engine running
12.1v engine off which does seem to indicate that the alternator is charging.

does the system need a reset with a diagnostic tool possibly?
or……….?

good news mate and that u also bought a Denso as other makes have been reported of causing issues

only time the BMS needs resetting is after a new battery is fitted , u should be seeing a min of 12.6 Vdc with the engine off, assume it’s has an AGM battery fitted, however I don’t think it would hurt seeing you’ve fitted a new alternator

if it’s only a few years old I would give it a good overnight charge , if it’s 3-4 years old would consider replacing it

may I ask what year ur D4 is plse , ie does it have stop / start etc, as a side note when I done my earths I used a dremel with a wire wheel to clean the earth posts and terminals, then used some copperslip , maybe the connection points needs cleaning ?

easy to test with a multimeter

once again great that ur slowly resolving all the issues
 
When you say the plug 'fell' out of the alternator, that could well indicate the root cause...
Usually the DTC will self-clear and the charge indicator go out, sometimes it needs 5 start/stop cycles of the engine.

ECP are not great for giving you what you asked for, a mate bought a Bosch remanufactured Disco3 alternator online, was given a nondescript brown box by the counter-monkey - which he opened in front of said monkey, the alternator didn't have the Bosch 'seal' through a bolt hole nor the labels.... Firstly the counter monkey claimed he's swapped it - which was responded to with 'check your CCTV', then claimed the part was on the wrong shelf... once he brought the correct one, in a Bosch sealed box with the Bosch seal through the bolt hole, the difference was night & day - and about £100 profit to ECP...
13.7VDC is low for a running engine unless there's a lot of ancillaries switched on and a discharged battery, it is however, about right for an alternator with no LIN connection which will default to a 'charging, but only just' strategy.
 
good news mate and that u also bought a Denso as other makes have been reported of causing issues

only time the BMS needs resetting is after a new battery is fitted , u should be seeing a min of 12.6 Vdc with the engine off, assume it’s has an AGM battery fitted, however I don’t think it would hurt seeing you’ve fitted a new alternator

if it’s only a few years old I would give it a good overnight charge , if it’s 3-4 years old would consider replacing it

may I ask what year ur D4 is plse , ie does it have stop / start etc, as a side note when I done my earths I used a dremel with a wire wheel to clean the earth posts and terminals, then used some copperslip , maybe the connection points needs cleaning ?

easy to test with a multimeter

once again great that ur slowly resolving all the issues
Thanks for response, it is a 2010 - no stop start.
 
When you say the plug 'fell' out of the alternator, that could well indicate the root cause...
Usually the DTC will self-clear and the charge indicator go out, sometimes it needs 5 start/stop cycles of the engine.

ECP are not great for giving you what you asked for, a mate bought a Bosch remanufactured Disco3 alternator online, was given a nondescript brown box by the counter-monkey - which he opened in front of said monkey, the alternator didn't have the Bosch 'seal' through a bolt hole nor the labels.... Firstly the counter monkey claimed he's swapped it - which was responded to with 'check your CCTV', then claimed the part was on the wrong shelf... once he brought the correct one, in a Bosch sealed box with the Bosch seal through the bolt hole, the difference was night & day - and about £100 profit to ECP...
13.7VDC is low for a running engine unless there's a lot of ancillaries switched on and a discharged battery, it is however, about right for an alternator with no LIN connection which will default to a 'charging, but only just' strategy.
Sealed box, all correctly labelled etc.
 
Can you read the DTC's, it's possibly a loose terminal on the LIN connection to the alternator (or a defective replacement). If you are getting a DTC that won't clear, check the voltage on the plug, it should be 10-11VDC, it will fluctuate as it's a data connection - also check the connector hasn't opened up in the housing. If all good, then it's likely a defective alternator.
 
Back
Top