ALRC Project

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Better to start a new build than try and redo previous bodges/attempts at a trialer

Don't know how many times I've wanted to give up and start fresh!!
 
Daveedwins said:
Yep Borg Warner, only worry is disco 2 rear suspension but if it causes a problem I'm sure we can modify move on and adapt!!
Click to expand...

Mine is D2 rear trailing arms too, there are some in our club and they seem to climb very well, I think you will be suprised how good they are. Make sure your springs are soft enough and just keep a wary eye out for cross axle traps :rolleyes:
I did start off converting the D2 rear axle to "A" frame and did say I would change back to it ("A" frame) if I had trouble trialing but it would be loads of work now so don't think it will happen.
 
owl said:
Mine is D2 rear trailing arms too, there are some in our club and they seem to climb very well, I think you will be suprised how good they are. Make sure your springs are soft enough and just keep a wary eye out for cross axle traps :rolleyes:
I did start off converting the D2 rear axle to "A" frame and did say I would change back to it ("A" frame) if I had trouble trialing but it would be loads of work now so don't think it will happen.
Click to expand...


Ive bought a adapter that should make it very easy (I say now ..)

Rear axle should be easy front may be abit harder
 
Must admit we are planning to try the disco 2 rear end and if it proves to hang us up a lot we will retrofit the a frame, as you say it's a lot of work I would rather not do but if we have to we will! Would be really interested to see any short cuts!
 
Daveedwins said:
Must admit we are planning to try the disco 2 rear end and if it proves to hang us up a lot we will retrofit the a frame, as you say it's a lot of work I would rather not do but if we have to we will! Would be really interested to see any short cuts!
Click to expand...

1x weld in a frame adapter




The casing where the watts linkage usually bolts is at a slight angle to the tube casing so ill probably flatten off the plate and then create a hole to weld the adapter into. The bottom links shouldn't be too difficult to do I can make up some plates preety easy

Front I'll adapt to 90 radius arm set up. Chop off the old brackets and weld on 90 ones. Ill make a jig to hold the axles in position so I can set up the suspension angles to standard to keep everything balanced. I may give it 3° correction at the brackets if im feeling brave :eek:
 
That ball joint socket looks handy, though on mine if I was to fit an A frame most of the work would be in altering the chassis end and moving the radiator and exhaust.
 
stutab said:
So what are the advantages to using a D2 axle over RRC/D1? Are P38 the same as D2?
Click to expand...

D2 axles are stonger as standard but massively stronger if you fit ashcroft internals as the CV is huge compared to the 90/classic etc one.

They have a wider track than 90 axles so if you keep the same radius arm set up (as im doing) you can gain quite abit of steering lock which is awesome for trialing. Every little helps tonnes.

The added width also means theyre more stable at speed and on side slopes etc

Bigger better brakes.

No swivel on the front to snap (common problem in challenge and trials)

So yeah basically theyre awesome. Only problem with the increased width is it makes gates tighter but meh

P38 have the diff on the opposite side. Better for if your running a rear engine and reversed TB
 
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