Alarm Help Please P38

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Range99

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Alarm Help Please.
Hi
I have a 99 Range Rover, when turning the drivers door lock with the key to unlock, (I don't have a remote fob) its recently started intermittently unlocking only that door and not the others which leaves the alarm armed.

Sometimes going back and forth with the key works, other times I end up opening the door, alarm sounds and I back and forth the key again.

Question: is it likely dirty contacts/corrosion in the lock/actuators or possibly one of the BCM's or other?
Anyone with any advice or experience with this problem would be greatly appreciated.

I'm in the middle of a trip through Central America, LR dealers are pretty thin on the ground here so it would be a mini nightmare if she decided to keep the alarm on permanently.
Thanks.
 
The key mechanically opens the driver's door lock and also trips microswitches inside the lock mechanism to operate the central locking / alarm. It sounds like either the rod from the key isn't quite travelling far enough (perhaps your handle is loose or worn) or you've got a microswitch sticking. It's not difficult, but a bit fiddly, to get the lock mechanism out. Then you can strip it, clean it and it's quite simple to see how it all works.
 
Thanks DB , that seems to match whats happening , I have a new key cut recently I will try first , then surgery next. Would you recommend flooding the lock with WD40?
 
Range99 said:
Thanks DB , that seems to match whats happening , I have a new key cut recently I will try first , then surgery next. Would you recommend flooding the lock with WD40?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't recommend flooding anything with WD40 unless you want to drive water out. What I found in my lock mechanisms was that the original grease had been steadily swept away from where is was of any use and it had then hardened stopping the cams inside the lock from moving any further. Then, as the mechanism had worn, the lock had become slightly less reliable.

If the handle is loose or worn then lubrication won't do any good.
If the rod isn't pulling far enough then lubrication won't do any good.
If a microswitch is sticking then your spraying lubrication on the outside of the lock mechanism won't do any good.
If your internal mechanism is worn, loose or stuck by old grease then external lubrication won't do any good.

Spray away with your can of over-priced fish oil if it makes you feel any better but . . . . .
 
dogsbody said:
I wouldn't recommend flooding anything with WD40 unless you want to drive water out. What I found in my lock mechanisms was that the original grease had been steadily swept away from where is was of any use and it had then hardened stopping the cams inside the lock from moving any further. Then, as the mechanism had worn, the lock had become slightly less reliable.

If the handle is loose or worn then lubrication won't do any good.
If the rod isn't pulling far enough then lubrication won't do any good.
If a microswitch is sticking then your spraying lubrication on the outside of the lock mechanism won't do any good.
If your internal mechanism is worn, loose or stuck by old grease then external lubrication won't do any good.

Spray away with your can of over-priced fish oil if it makes you feel any better but . . . . .
Click to expand...

+1 afraid it is a mechanism out inspect repair or replace
 
You should be able to take the door-card out and test the wires from the lock to see if a pulse goes when you unlock with the key. Cannot remember off the top of my head which coloured wire is for the central locking but it is in Rave. If you're not getting a pulse then it could be 1 of the 3 microswitches in the bottom of the lock. They're not soldered. They just clip in and out so easy to replace.
 
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