Air Con - 1st post be gentle

rewmer said:

First off, the important thing - Is it a Daewoo ?

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Half my respect and now for the full offering which type of Daewoo

rewmer said:

Secondly, sounds like your window is suffering from nothing more serious than sticky channels. I would suggest getting hold of a tin of PTFE lubricant, I used to use it in my engineering days, and it is as slippery as chuff! A good squirt on the the channel at the back edge of the door, and on the rubber strip that pushes against the glass at the front should fix your problem. You can hear the dry rubber squealing as the window goes up.
This is the stuff ptfe spray lubricant 400ml , router cutters,blades etc, on eBay, also, Woodworking, Manufacturing Woodworking, Business, Office Industrial (end time 02-Aug-08 20:53:01 BST)
.

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Thanks will try that.... did you notice/see the diagonal upper edge of the glass drags more than the straight edge at the back of the window?

I think that will apply the ptfe to the front edge first.

One 4x4 garage reckoned the servo that drives the window up was 'buckled' would cost £180 to fix, independent garage at LR prices! Maybe.....

Many thanks

Adam

rewmer said:

...sounds like your window is suffering from nothing more serious than sticky channels. I would suggest getting hold of a tin of PTFE lubricant, I used to use it in my engineering days, and it is as slippery as chuff! A good squirt on the the channel at the back edge of the door, and on the rubber strip that pushes against the glass at the front should fix your problem. You can hear the dry rubber squealing as the window goes up.
This is the stuff ptfe spray lubricant 400ml , router cutters,blades etc, on eBay, also, Woodworking, Manufacturing Woodworking, Business, Office Industrial (end time 02-Aug-08 20:53:01 BST)
.

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Rewmer

Received in the post yesterday and worked a treat, the window still struggles a little and it will need regular re-applying but works brilliantly.

Sincere thanks

Adam

Nice job ! Thats one you can cross off the list.I have seen complete lifting mechinisms on the Bay for £50 if it gets bad again, or if your feeling brave, strip the motor down and clean up the commutator that the brushes run on, that may perk it up a bit.

Rewmer

Thanks again. I will have to get around to ordering some plenum foam and now pollen filters so if you know any good cheap suppliers that would be handy.

On page two of the post I have a picture of a big empty space below and behind the EAS box, directly in front of the firewall on the passenger side right on the inside of the offside wing. As you can see there are screw holes and protruding bits like it was meant to hold something but it is compeltely empty. As you have been so helpful so far ahve you any idea what woudl normally go there?

Cheers

Adam

Mmmmm not sure about that space. On mine the engine ecu sits there, but I have a later model petrol. My spare space is behind the battery where your ecu is, I have a hole ! May be for the ABS gear / expansion bottle when they are fitted out for left hand drive. I got my pollen filters from this guy, just over £17 for the pair delivered (dont know if thats cheap or not ), came the next day.

Does little darling start OK when hot / cold ? there are a couple of well documented issues on the diesels that are quite easy to sort out.

Most importantly though, I am going to put my money on it being a Matiz.

Mate

so unlucky there struggled to get there and fell at the last hurdle. I am pleased? to tell you that it was in fact a Daewoo Tacuma 1.6 SE that was given as a gift 18 months ago, spent £1800 over that time and getting custom made exhaust as no longer shipped old model, service etc then starter motor overran and bent all the vales in the engine, since that photo scrapped for £150 and feel better off for it.

DSE starts brilliantly when cold but struggles on warm, read about this in several posts and may just buy the wiring loom with relay timer on ebay for £30 + P&P.

Purchase wise found ebay site RANGE ROVER P38 4.0,4.6 V8 & 2.5 DIESEL POLLEN FILTER on eBay, also, Range Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 14-Aug-08 11:51:26 BST)

where they are quoting £11 all in for a pair so you've not done too bad as it may be for only one filter not a pair . The shop is DLS Auto Spares. Looking also for the plenum foam/filter as you can see in the photo it looks well knackered.

The hot start fault is well known as you have discovered. Make sure you do use the timed relay kit though. My old mate didnt. He solved his starting problem Ok but a couple of thousand miles melted a piston and part of the head - not good.

Another tip - get a couple of gallons of parafin and give your intercooler a good sloosh out. You will be surprised at the difference it makes.

rewmer said:

The hot start fault is well known as you have discovered. Make sure you do use the timed relay kit though. My old mate didnt. He solved his starting problem Ok but a couple of thousand miles melted a piston and part of the head - not good.

Another tip - get a couple of gallons of parafin and give your intercooler a good sloosh out. You will be surprised at the difference it makes.

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Parrafin? that a good solvent?

No kidding about melting the head, post I read said it was like driving with the choke (If you remember that you are at least as old as me ) on full all the time, no surprise it knackered the engine at all.....

Live and learn i suppose.

Cheers

Adam

Parrafin? that a good solvent?

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Petrol is better, but very dangerous. Half fill the intercooler, leave it to soak for a while, then bung the ends and give it a good shake ! Keep doing this until its clear.

Thanks Rewmer

Read in another post on here that LR recommend a diff organic solvent that evapourates out of the IC, called K..... or similar. Any experience with it?

Cheers

Adam

Sorry not heard of that.....Kerosene perhaps ?

Right just checked it in the newsgroups on here and it was called Genklene and was LR's recommended product as it evaporated off.

adamrharding said:

Hello again

Reading the RR.net site and following their pollen filter link as the cause of servo motor failure. Pulled mine out and they were proper black lots of dead leaves in there too. Looked across the open vents that lead into the plenum (workshop manual description) on into the pollen filters and there is the remains of foam and it is through this lack of protection that dead leaves and sticks are finding their way in. Now I know this is not the way it should be and have taken the photo below:

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OK

Latest Update

Have ordered the new pollen filters and plenum filter as looking through rangerovers.net guides replacing the pollen filters seems VERY easy and the plenum filter as little more complicated but not tricky.

Anyone have any advice before they arrive as to difficult spots?

Cheers

adam

I used to find Clearasil was pretty effective.

Excellent advice

I wondered where I was going wrong with LARD

adamrharding said:

Right just checked it in the newsgroups on here and it was called Genklene and was LR's recommended product as it evaporated off.

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Genklene = Trichloroethane = nasty stuff which I believe is now banned

Yeah

Read that after posting, guess must have to do with Diesel/Petrol.

Cheers

Adam

Interesting point - Trichloroethane gves off Mustard gas when exposed to UV radiation. ie weldng arc ! One of the little things that stuck after 5 years of welding college.

Hi i'm quite new to this site aswell and also have a 1996 manual 2.5 dse with the same symbol on my climate control display I regassed my a/c as i had to start somewhere and checked it for leaks and i had none that i could see but found out my compesser wasn't cutting in posible due to a fault with the electo magnet so i'm on the hunt for a second hand one. but on hold on that a the min as i need a new clutch :-(