Air Compressor / Valve block

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Ush

Active Member
Posts
103
Location
Bristol, UK
Hi,
New in and immediately on the scrounge for some advice..

Left my '02 disco standing for a few days and came out to find it on the bumps stops.. concensus from most forums is that it's be a leak from one of the rear bags.. They'd never been changed anyway (LR says should be done every 5 yrs), so went ahead and got a pair from Paddock (circa £150).. changed them without any problem (one had a dark patch on it which apparently can indicate pin leak).

When I re-tightened the airhoses on the compressor, one just wouldn't go tight.. when i investigated, there were a couple of the plastic threads still on the metal connector.. threw some PTFE on, and although it went tighter, and pumps up OK, now slightly nervous that it'll blow out when I'm driving it.

The compressor is around £250 and comes in the housing in which the "valve block" is mounted.. I believe you can get the valve block on its own (ANR4869), but that's £100 on its own, which seems a little steep for a stripped thread.

So to the point, Threadlock and sealers all seem designed for metal only, and I don't want to do anything I can't then undo, unless I'm sure it'll work. You can get a connector for Pneumatics which is thread to 6mm pushfit, I assume pushfit will be OK, because that's the connection on the aftermarket air springs. Question - do I go for one with the same thread and essentially glue it in place (any ideas with what?), or get one with a slightly bigger thread and try to tap out the plastic thread in the valve block.. if if can tap it, can you get a straight connector, which'll save me cutting the connector off the airline, like you have to with the springs?

??? hate spending money, hate the idea of rear suspension blowing out on the M4 even more!!

Cheers
 
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Quite a common issue with "overtightening" the pipe fittings, its the "O" ring that seals so they never really need to be that tight.

If it tightens ok with some PTFE on it, I would think it will be fine.........if you use some threadlock, then it could damage the thread upon removal if you have to strip it later on.....push fit pneumatic fittigns will be fine as well.
 
Yeah, That's sort of where I am at the moment, certainly don't want to do anything which makes it worse.. unfortunately, even with PTFE, it won't go tight. Started it an hour or so ago, for the 1st time in a week and the compressor fired for a couple of minutes, suggesting there still is a very slight leak.
It looks like the thread is 1/4", and you can buy a 3/8" male to 1/4" female straight connector for a couple of quid, which still has me wondering if I can tap out the valve block a little and go that way,but I've never tapped plastic, and am concerned I'll crack it..

Absolute worse case is the £100 for new valve block, I'm just surprised that, given the air compressors seem to be a fairly common issue and when you replace them you get the whole assembly... there aren't loads of the valve blocks, floating around second-hand?
 
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