Advice please on dealing with a sheared manifold bolt

cobalt are good ,but an old machinist i used to know sharpend masonary bits

davethsparky said:

Those titanium coated bits are a con, they have the thinnest coating possible on them which scratches off the moment it hits the workpiece.
A properly sharpened hss bit will do just as well, or else get a set of cobalt steel drill bits.

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Yes I know some of them are a bit naff, but the point is you want something harder than a bog standard B&Q special.

James, yes, I've experimented with regrinding masonry drills for other materials. The difficulty is that because the carbide tip is just like a little block brazed into the end of the drill you can't get much of a flute angle on them. However, they're good for drilling really hard things, like if you ever want a hole drilled in a file.

Don't use SDS bits, they're designed for masonry.

Before you drill anything, use some proper penetrating oil such as Plus Gas, it works far better than WD-40.

Could you get there with a right angle drill?

AS for buying all the extra tools to do this job, that will only be worthwhile if you're going to use them regularly and it may be cheaper getting hold of a replacement manifold.

See post #18

Freelaner said:

See post #18

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Thought that post referred to a DIY sex toy.

Tazz070299 said:

Thought that post referred to a DIY sex toy.

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If you are drilling it out keep the drill rpm low, if too fast you will heat up the cutting edge, loose the temper and blunt the drill and it wont cut.

left hand drill bits

I have the same issue on a V8 manifold which I took off the motor now. Cobalt drill bits bought, centre punch didn't even mark the stud so hard its unbelieveble. I have tried the cobalt drills and so far its Just about marked the stud! Its being clamped into a milling machine and I think Diamond tipped mill will bore a hole in it so I can get an easy out in there. One thing with easyouts any twisting force at all will break it. you muct only uncrew it and not put any force sideways as they are ever so brittle.

spark erode it?

Decent cobalt drill bits, we use Dormer at work, and decent easy outs ie Snap-On, correct cutting speed and lubricant will pop that out no trouble. But that's easy for me to say as I have kit and workshop to do this. Bud I think your best bet is to whip the manifold off and take it to a garage or machine shop and ask them to do it. By the time you buy some new kit and have a go, you might mangle the manifold and be back to square one or less.

Next up after getting a hole in it will be oxy and get the manifold hot and try and keep the bolt cooler let the manifold expand to let it loosen its grip on the stud then use easy outs/LH drills. I have bought a spare manifold but again all the studs need replacing so will be ever so careful removing them

Would it be possible to weld a smaller diameter bolt onto the sheared stud and then get it out with a spanner. Just a few tacks with a mig welder

place a nut over the broken stud and weld through the hole onto broken stud , let everything cool down and then gently undo.

Total dismal failure this morning. Took spanner over this morning for "quick 5 minute tap and undo....". Would it buggery!. Just couldn't get the belt to grip the pulley to stop it turning. Couldn't get anything else in there to hold it it sufficiently. Many many welts with a bolster hammer wouldn't shock the nut loose.

Looks like a weld nut in situ jobby or drill out .

sometimes quite a few ,hitting each flat centrally works

Had to give up for today - got other jobs lined up . Left my spanner there in case Oakley wants to try again....

never under estimate stretching the nut slighty by hitting it works with track rod ends and most nuts bolts etc

Mite suggest that.

Just to confirm.... Td5 is anti clockwise int it - opposite to 200/300 viscous nut?