Freelander 2 (LR2) Advice Needed - Rust Issues

Hi all, new to the forum. Looking to buy my first land rover. It’s also my first car so I could do with some advice.

Here’s a Freelander I went to see today in Glasgow - http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202310303465769

I’m quite keen on it, looks tidy to me other than a fair amount of rust on the brake components and in between the two back wheels. I’ve attached photos. I’m not sure if it’s too rusty, ie if the rust is going to start causing issues or if this is normal for a FL of this age. Should I start looking elsewhere? I’m hoping to buy something that’ll last as long as I look after it.

Any advice would be appreciated, cheers.

Also, probably a daft question, but when I read about folks galvanising bits of their cars, I assume they’re doing so before rust sets in as a preventative measure? Is there some sensible way of treating rusty components without replacing?

Aluminium corrosion can be ignored. However that rust on the rear rails and drag link brackets is pointing towards more rust, potentially making the vehicle beyond economical repair. For reference my 2009MY FL2 has minor surface rust compared to that mess.
There are plenty for sale, so I'd look for another. You have to remember that the FL2 is actually a Ford, so they rust about the same as a similar aged Ford too.

Galvanising can work on cleaned rusted surfaces, but it's only any good on beefy components, and is no use on a body, as it requires dipping in molten zinc, which warps the body panels like cooking crisps makes flat potato slices all bend of shape

Nodge68 said:

Aluminium corrosion can be ignored. However that rust on the rear rails and drag link brackets is pointing towards more rust, potentially making the vehicle beyond economical repair. For reference my 2009MY FL2 has minor surface rust compared to that mess.
There are plenty for sale, so I'd look for another. You have to remember that the FL2 is actually a Ford, so they rust about the same as a similar aged Ford too.

Galvanising can work on cleaned rusted surfaces, but it's only any good on beefy components, and is no use on a body, as it requires dipping in molten zinc, which warps the body panels like cooking crisps makes flat potato slices all bend of shape

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Thanks for the prompt and detailed response. I’ll continue my search!

Just so I know for future, at one dealership the salesman said rusty brake discs, like the one in the photo i attached, is normal. Is he correct? The one in the photo looks a bit knackered to me.

That rust looks pretty bad for a 10 year old car.

I wonder what bodywork warranty these came with and whether it might (just) still be under warranty.

Rust on the brake disks isn't anything to worry about, they can go like that after a couple of days without use. Difficult to tell from the pic but the lip round the outside of the disk might indicate that they are worn to far and might fail a MOT soon.

Nyal said:

Thanks for the prompt and detailed response. I’ll continue my search!

Just so I know for future, at one dealership the salesman said rusty brake discs, like the one in the photo i attached, is normal. Is he correct? The one in the photo looks a bit knackered to me.

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Rotors (discs) are wearing items, so need changing every other set of pads, or every set of pads if the vehicle doesn't do many miles.
Mine were dreadful when I go it, so I replaced all of them, including the calipers and parking brake assemblies.

Here's old and new front brakes on mine. I didn't photograph the rear for some reason.

I'm not familiar with the F2, but that rust looks like a rear subframe.

If you are keen on the car and there does not look to be other issues with the car, then you could try a deal with the company selling it. For example, you agree a price if they replace the subframe, or you get a price from somewhere to replace it and then agree a price with the seller knowing how much you will immediately need to spend to bring it up to good condition.

GrumpyGel said:

That rust looks pretty bad for a 10 year old car.

I wonder what bodywork warranty these came with and whether it might (just) still be under warranty.

Rust on the brake disks isn't anything to worry about, they can go like that after a couple of days without use. Difficult to tell from the pic but the lip round the outside of the disk might indicate that they are worn to far and might fail a MOT soon.

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The body warranty is 6 years, providing the annual LR corrosion assessment is carried out. No annual assessment means no body warranty. No that it matters after 10 years. Mine however is nothing like as rusty as that one.

Get written evidence of service history.

Included in that is a service of the Haldex unit (bolted on the front of the rear diff and enables the AWD). If there is no evidence of this, which is common, you should have it serviced by a company that know what they are doing with Haldex units.

GrumpyGel said:

I'm not familiar with the F2, but that rust looks like a rear subframe.

If you are keen on the car and there does not look to be other issues with the car, then you could try a deal with the company selling it. For example, you agree a price if they replace the subframe, or you get a price from somewhere to replace it and then agree a price with the seller knowing how much you will immediately need to spend to bring it up to good condition.

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The rusty part in the picture is part of the rear subframe and suspension link.
If the subframe is that rusty in that area, then the adjacent body will be just as bad, or normally is.
The subframe is a replaceable component, but not cheap.
I was worried because mine has surface rust, but that one must be almost rusted through to holes.

Nyal said:

Hi all, new to the forum. Looking to buy my first land rover. It’s also my first car so I could do with some advice.

Here’s a Freelander I went to see today in Glasgow - http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202310303465769

I’m quite keen on it, looks tidy to me other than a fair amount of rust on the brake components and in between the two back wheels. I’ve attached photos. I’m not sure if it’s too rusty, ie if the rust is going to start causing issues or if this is normal for a FL of this age. Should I start looking elsewhere? I’m hoping to buy something that’ll last as long as I look after it.

Any advice would be appreciated, cheers.

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My opinion is don’t buy from Scotland even if you live there
we are on the border of Scotland and I have just sold one I bought from Scotland 4 years ago
and it had decaying inevitability about it I had done lots of welding and all I could see is trouble coming

I have replaced it with same model same year (56) but from down south and it’s literally night and day regarding corrosion I have used my experience with the old one to treat and protect the underside and i am hopeful of keeping this for the long haul or even till the end

Dar ran Dar ran said:

My opinion is don’t buy from Scotland even if you live there
we are on the border of Scotland and I have just sold one I bought from Scotland 4 years ago
and it had decaying inevitability about it I had done lots of welding and all I could see is trouble coming

I have replaced it with same model same year (56) but from down south and it’s literally night and day regarding corrosion I have used my experience with the old one to treat and protect the underside and i am hopeful of keeping this for the long haul or even till the end

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I'm sure you're spot on there. Mine has spent a good part of its life in the South Central to South West area, which is good for lower corrosion, although in my experience bad for quality of maintenance and workmanship. At leas the latter is easier to sort than heavy corrosion.

Dar ran Dar ran said:

My opinion is don’t buy from Scotland even if you live there
we are on the border of Scotland and I have just sold one I bought from Scotland 4 years ago
and it had decaying inevitability about it I had done lots of welding and all I could see is trouble coming

I have replaced it with same model same year (56) but from down south and it’s literally night and day regarding corrosion I have used my experience with the old one to treat and protect the underside and i am hopeful of keeping this for the long haul or even till the end

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Lot of truth in that.

There was a rebuild thread a good number of years ago now by a fella who bought a Scottish F1 and it was rusted out along sills and wheel arches.

GrumpyGel said:

Lot of truth in that.

There was a rebuild thread a good number of years ago now by a fella who bought a Scottish F1 and it was rusted out along sills and wheel arches.

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I remember that one. Even the internal sill strengtheners were rusted out.

Nodge68 said:

I'm sure you're spot on there. Mine has spent a good part of its life in the South Central to South West area, which is good for lower corrosion, although in my experience bad for quality of maintenance and workmanship. At leas the latter is easier to sort than heavy corrosion.

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we have just bought doblo reg SL##### so from Scotland but actually lived it’s entire life before we got it in October around the midlands
They bought it pre reg from A Clark but it never got on Scottish salty roads and it’s like new underneath (70,000 m )
but clueless maintenance like you say
It was sold as spares to me but all I could find was a
sticking injector so 2l liquid Moly as hopefully sorted it
so I generally believe lack of training/ effort/ money in Garages doesn’t help ( the Garage who serviced it every year for 5 years told them it was about to blow up )
£590 plus VaT for a new Timing chain the week before they told them it was about to blow and bills that Make eyes water but they couldn’t take the time to really have a look at it

Shocking really especially as the old owners have text me ask if it’s sorted and what was wrong
When i said it was still not right ,just not to rub it in the faces
they offered to refund me some money
Lovely people

Cheers all for the advice, much appreciated. I think I will have a look south of the border, looks like there’s no shortage of good options there.

Glad to have found such an active and helpful community, I’m sure I’ll be in touch with more questions soon.

Been to see another Scottish one there, managed to get a test drive in. 2.2 TD4 XS manual, it was a whole lot of fun, definitely set on buying an FL2.

Would appreciate your opinions on the rust, I’ve attached photos. 2014, 59k miles, £12.8k. It had failed it’s recent MOT, I’ve attached a screenshot of the repairs required. Salesman said they’d repair and service before handing it off to me (+12 month warranty) but it’d be good to know your thoughts on if the faults are indicative of more serious issues down the line.

Cheers

They're great vehicles to drive. I love mine, so replacing it with something a bit greener and cheaper to run will be hard.
There's a bit more rust than on mine, considering mine is 5 years older.
The vehicle has presumably been bumping up lots of curbs for the NS TRE to have slack at such a low mileage, mine I believe is still on it's first set at twice that mileage, it's easy fixed though.
Corrosion under the brake pipe coating will require replacement pipes, not a hugely difficult task.
The MIL in an interesting one, as it's an LED on the Ipack module, so would require specialist checking and replacement. Of course it could just be the MOT tester is being dim, and hasn't seen it, or doesn't know how to turn the ignition on.

Nyal said:

Been to see another Scottish one there, managed to get a test drive in. 2.2 TD4 XS manual, it was a whole lot of fun, definitely set on buying an FL2.

Would appreciate your opinions on the rust, I’ve attached photos. 2014, 59k miles, £12.8k. It had failed it’s recent MOT, I’ve attached a screenshot of the repairs required. Salesman said they’d repair and service before handing it off to me (+12 month warranty) but it’d be good to know your thoughts on if the faults are indicative of more serious issues down the line.

Cheers

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If your investing over £12k in a vehicle it’s well worth paying the aa or a mechanic or an mot tester to go with you and inspect it before you buy it. Would likely cost under £200 to get the peace of mind.

Ross Tait said:

If your investing over £12k in a vehicle it’s well worth paying the aa or a mechanic or an mot tester to go with you and inspect it before you buy it. Would likely cost under £200 to get the peace of mind.

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I must admit I'd not be spending anything like £12k on a Freelander, as they're simply not worth that much in my eyes. Mine cost me about £3k all in 3 years ago, so to me one just a couple of real years newer definitely isn't worth 4 times the money.