Adjustable panhard rod - fitting

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Tel900

New Member
Posts
53
Location
Surrey
Anyone fitted such a beastie and can offer some advice please?

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Some questions:
  • How do I centre the axle i.e. measure from where to where and how will I hold it there once centered?
  • What veritcal position does the axle need to be in to fit (full weight of the car on it, lowered till it is being supported by the springs and shocks, half way between the two extremes?)
Cheers, Tel
 
How much lift do you have? A 2 to 3 inch lift only moves the front axle sideways by about 1mm (sorry for mixed dimensions) This is well within LR build tolerances.

I would suggest that some form of straight edge down the inside of the chassis to the bottom spring perch and taking some measurements from spring perch to straight edge will give you some indication of when the axle is in the middle.
 
Thanks Andy, I'll give that a go.

Its a 'good' 2 inch lift - increase in height (body to floor) over the old springs being 3" in some cases. I need to move the axle about 5mm to the passender side to balance things up.
 
For anyone searching, now I'm armed (and dangerous) with the experience, here is a suggestion how (not) to do it...

  1. fit the pollybushes to either end of the rod (bloodyeck, there is something in Landy maintainance that is as easy as it should be)
  2. fit the adjustable eye into the rod and adjust till its a good 5cm longer then the fixed one you're removing (even though you calculate you only need to move the axle 5mm to correct the 2" lift).
  3. jack the car and insert axle stands on chasis and remove at least the drivers front wheel
  4. remove old rod (yeay the bolts weren't seized)
  5. insert the fixed eye end of the rod into the chasis bracket - needs 'pursuading' but be careful not to damage the delicate pollybush. Push bolt though and losely fit the old nut
  6. Fart around for an hour or so inserting the adjustable end of the rod into the axle bracket - the main technique is to use a spare trolley jack to insert a cold chisel (any wedge shaped object) between the rod and bracket to move the axle sideways..by the 5cm you just added to the rod. Insert the bolt when done - but do not fit the new nyloc nut
  7. remove axle stands and lower the car and put wheel(s) back on
  8. bounce the front suspension
  9. drive the car a few feet backwards, then forwards to where it was (don't ask me why cos I don't know)
  10. measure the protrusion of the tyres through the arches (see pic)
  11. realise you massively overcorrected and repeat steps 3 to 10 at least six times until you get it bang on.
  12. while repeating, insert the extra step saw 1cm off the thread of the adjustble eye a couple of times so you can shorten it sufficiently.
  13. when you come to fit the new nyloc nuts you might realise they are not M16, they're 16mm but a finer thread than M16 (you will have just spent £50 on a fantasic collection of nyloc nuts for any eventuality). Go to a main stealer and buy a couple of nyloc nuts - a quid each - not bad. btw Extreme 4x4 offered to throw in a couple of nuts & bolts with the rod, but did'nt:mad:.
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Anyway, its done now:

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If planning it yourself I'd allow at least 30 mins:D

Copywright PlonkerProductions.
 
How much lift do you have? A 2 to 3 inch lift only moves the front axle sideways by about 1mm (sorry for mixed dimensions) This is well within LR build tolerances.

A 2" lift moves it 6mm (1/4").
That's deffo what happened to mine anyway and I've heard similar from numerous other people.
 
Whats the advantage of fitting a Adjustable panhard rod over the normal one that comes with the Def 110?

No benefit in an adjustable rod I believe unless you have a suspension lift (as with a lift the chassis moves away from the axle and the unadjusted rod pulls the front axle sideways, so the front wheels stick out more one side than the other). The bigger the lift, the more you need to adjust.


And whats the advantage of doing it barefoot?:D

Can't afford shoes and be a Landy owner!
 
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