Ace Amber light

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Clark432

Member
Posts
17
Location
Chepstow
Hi
Just upgraded my Ace Lines 3/8 Hydrolic hoses
new Rams
Im having problems getting the system to work right
Im getting a reading of 100bar max around corners and the system doesnt feel like its working 100%
Has anyone got any ideas I tried bleeding with nanocom but not much happened i believe the body is meant to move during this process but nothing happened with mine
I also have a amber light come and go
This is the order of my hoses if someone can check if ive made a mistake
Ace Diagram.jpg
 
pictures attached
I don't have a nanocom so we would need to know what these faults translate as.
@sierrafery is your man for this and as I have just tagged him he'll hopefully pop on and lend a hand with his advice.
I'm not much cop with electronix although I have done some work on my ACE system.
Best of luck with solving it.
Stan
 
I’ve been told the nanocom codes aren’t reliable
Amber light comes and goes

Almost feels like the rear isnt acting the same as front

And when the light comes on it’s doesn’t feel like it’s work at all
 
Providing your batt is fully charged and the connections are good, you may, only suggesting MAY need to do the SRS modification that a lot of us have had to do.
But I'll shut up now, probably, until @sierrafery has been on!
 
I’ve been told the nanocom codes aren’t reliable
Amber light comes and goes

Almost feels like the rear isnt acting the same as front

And when the light comes on it’s doesn’t feel like it’s work at all
It does sound as if the rear maybe isn't properly bled and the not working when the amber light comes on sounds as if it's been put into "neutral" mode i.e. locked into a median position. Mine did that once and I drove down a mountain and back up again with loads of bends some of them hairpins. Felt OK. As it would with standard AR bars. Pulled the fues out, replaced it. The problem went away.
Next time it came on I had to do the SRS mod. If you need to do it there are lots of posts on here about how to do it.
 
It does sound as if the rear maybe isn't properly bled and the not working when the amber light comes on sounds as if it's been put into "neutral" mode i.e. locked into a median position. Mine did that once and I drove down a mountain and back up again with loads of bends some of them hairpins. Felt OK. As it would with standard AR bars. Pulled the fues out, replaced it. The problem went away.
Next time it came on I had to do the SRS mod. If you need to do it there are lots of posts on here about how to do it.
Okay thanks will look into it
 
Hi, 100 Bar while cornering seems a bit low, i saw up to 125 on mine not once but it can depend on the vehicle's weight, speed and how hard is cornering. I confirm that you can't rely on nanocom for ACE fault codes but it's good with live inputs so read those while the warning lamp is off stationary, post the results here then we'll speak again
 
Okay thanks
Won’t have computer till
Hi, 100 Bar while cornering seems a bit low, i saw up to 125 on mine not once but it can depend on the vehicle's weight, speed and how hard is cornering. I confirm that you can't rely on nanocom for ACE fault codes but it's good with live inputs so read those while the warning lamp is off stationary, post the results here then we'll speak again
right so I have the results with car parked with no lights on dash looks okay to me

I’ve also attached results with the light on and parked

I’m wondering if the pressure transducer is playing up giving the ECU a wrong reading then throwing the light on putting me in this mode

Also plenty of activity in the reservoir even with the light on dash
 

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Yes, you should replace the transducer cos a good one must read between 16 - 19 bar at idle on a well working system... once this was ruled out you should try with a known good ECU, they are quite cheap and available due to the de-ACE hysteria when people remove the whole thing just due to a leaking pipe then in a cognitive dissonance are telling there's no difference with classic ARBs o_O
 
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