Disco 2 Abs sensor torque setting

Had a rear right speed sensor code after a cracking long weekend laning in the Lake District, took out the sensor and it was grubby to say the least, cleaned it up and put it back in, amigos gone but solid abs light and tc kicking in when I accelerate while turning. I’m thinking I’ve over tightened the sensor, anyone know the torque settings or know what I’ve done wrong?

Ive taken them out before with no issues, and given the fixing bolt a not too tight tweek. They can be quite fussy about the distance between sensor and actuator. If the sensor looks like its been squished a bit, stick a thin shim in and try again.

The Allen bolt should be tightened to 18Nm. Also don't forget the O-ring that acts as a spacer and a seal, which (in theory ??) should be replaced.

I did clean the seal but not replace it, it was very grubby and rust coloured on the abs ring, I’m thinking I’ll try and blow it out with an air line

So I’ve had a look and cleaned out the abs ring with an air line, wasn’t to much crud, put it back together and still the same, tested the sensor with Nano and no reading, guess I’ll be replacing the sensor, annoyingly not plug in but long wire back wherever. Easy job or a ****?

These are passive inductive sensors dirt doesnt have any effect on them, the rear RH sensor is wired to C0392 pins 3 - 4 unplug it and check with multimeter toward the sensor to make sure it's open circuit, a good sensor should have between 950 -1100 ohm cos if you get 0 reading and no 3 amigos just that TC misbehaviour then the ECU is suspect too

That’s really helpful thank you, i thought the ecu was under the glove box but I’m guessing not.

youmitegetian said:

That’s really helpful thank you, i thought the ecu was under the glove box but I’m guessing not.

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It is actually behind the glove box

Ah ok cool I’ll get the multi meter out

So I’ve wired up a new sensor today and still no difference, could I have done some thing wrong or is it time to think ecu or Abs ring?

Wired it up untill C0392 or up to the ECU? you have to read live inputs to see if the circuit is OK or not cos if you connected the sensor to that plug in the engine bay there is still a chance that the other side of the loom untill the ECU is interrupted but if you see live stationary input between 2 - 2.3V then it's the hub or the ECU is fubar. If no sensor reading with new sensor wired to C0392 you have to check continuity of that circuit between C0392 and ECU

I connected it to the point the old one had been connected which was a couple of inches away from the plug to the ecu, do I test which pins do I use to test it? I’m ok on the spammers but electrics confuse the hell out of me. oddly on Nano I get no speed signal until I’m doing about 40mph on that sensor

Read stationary inputs with nanocom

Ah ok, defo got voltage if that’s what you mean?

You must get between 2 - 2.3V starionary all around which means that the sensors and circuits are OK and in this case the fault code must be erased then if it comes back with a code for a sensor after the vehicle exceeded 10mph the problem is the hub or the ECU

Ok thank you I’ll check tomorrow, thinking I might strip the hub as it was very rusty looking on the sensor, prob be worth a clean anyway

So an update, no play at the wheel but once I’d taken the hub off I could feel some movement, hub replaced and all sorted now. Thank you for the assistance. This forum is invaluable.

youmitegetian said:

So an update, no play at the wheel but once I’d taken the hub off I could feel some movement, hub replaced and all sorted now. Thank you for the assistance. This forum is invaluable.

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Well done!
In all the three that I have replaced for the same reason as yours I felt no movement at all at the hub, even off the car, although signs of rust etc were evident on one of them.
So good on you!