ABS Diagnostics...

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davek0974

davek0974

Well-Known Member
Posts
4,848
Location
Bishops Stortford, Herts.
Hi all, before anyone says it, yes i did search but i'm seeing conflicting info so i thought it safets to ask before frying my ABS ECU:mad:

I have never had the ABS lamp on my dash alight so i'm guessing the bulb has been removed befor i bought the motor 3 months ago.

To save ripping the dash out i am going to lash up a spare small bulb to the ABS lamp relay base at the point where the wire to the dash comes from, its a black/grey wire acording to the autodata diagram from pin 30 on the relay.

The main problem is triggering the blink codes, i dont yet know if i have the 15pin obd socket or the blue 5 pin abs diag socket. Either way, i am being told to remove a relay first BUT one post says remove the SYSTEM relay, another says remove the LAMP relay???

If its the blue connector, i need the black and black/pink wires.

I am hoping that the lamp will light when i connect it up or there is a bigger problem. I have checked all fuses etc first.

So is there a proven CORRECT method of getting it to blink???

Thanks

DAve
 
physically check the lamp
it recieives a +12v ignition supply and is grounded by the ecu to illuminate it.
dont lash any temp wiring up as you'll cook summat else.
i will post more info when i find where i saved it.

nrg
 
wabco abs manual c type.pdf:
Your file of 705.9 KB bytes exceeds the forum's limit of 19.5 KB for this filetype.

oops.

pm me an email address for you, i'll send the wabco manual.

unless someone can tell me how to get it on lz?
 
Ok, the temporary lamp idea worked, that confirms that the system is working and that the dash bulb is either missing or broken.

The codes i read were as follows, in the order of reading,
2-2
2-7
2-12
2-14
2-15
4-15
5-15
6-13
All clear.

Now, where do i start???

Dave
 
davek0974 said:
Ok, the temporary lamp idea worked, that confirms that the system is working and that the dash bulb is either missing or broken.

The codes i read were as follows, in the order of reading,
2-2
2-7
2-12
2-14
2-15
4-15
5-15
6-13
All clear.

Now, where do i start???

Dave
Click to expand...

did you road test with the temporary lamp?
if it went out theres no problem.
need to sort the dash light out tho.

edit -fault codes are in the manual which should be on the way
 
Last edited:
nrgserv said:
did you road test with the temporary lamp?
if it went out theres no problem.
need to sort the dash light out tho.

edit -fault codes are in the manual which should be on the way
Click to expand...


No, it was a bit of a lash-up:eek: but worked:D

I have a sneaky feeling it wont be that simple though, no idea how long its been out of use either.
 
need to find if its got active faults or stord faults.
an active fault wont put the light out.
sometimes best to delete all stored faults to see the last one which crops up on road test.
 
Ok, driven and re-read the blink codes,

To my amazement there was only ONE code - 6-13 which i think is left rear signal weak or missing.

But is that left looking from drivers seat or front of vehicle????

It would be better if they used near-side or off-side :)


Dave
 
Ok, while i'm waiting for some lamps to come, i thought i'd search for more info.

Looking at the Wabco manual for the ABS system, they show a blink-switch, landrover did not fit this:confused:

The Wabco wiring diagram shows that this switch does just two functions when switched on - 1, It disconnects the diagnostics port and 2, It shorts the same wire to ground as the paperclip method does.

Now, reading the manual, it states to turn ignition on then flip the blink-switch. It does not say remove any relays etc.

What difference does the relay being there make or not??????

The Wabco manual is an excellent bit of stuff to have.

Dave
 
I might have fixed the problem.:)

While underneath tonight beating the crap out of a seized but loose roll-bar joint, i took a break and stuck the test meter across the rear ABS sensors, 960 ohms on each one so its not an open-circuit sensor. Then i tried pushing them in to reset the position, the offside one did not move but the nearside one highlighted by the fault code went in about 3mm. Hopefully that would account for the no-signal error.

Only trouble is, i cant test it 'cos the track-rod's on the damn bench waiting for a new replacement:mad::mad:
 
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