P38A A series of faults

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Slooby said:
The weaping oil cooler pipe has been replaced, with the ends of the steel pipe flared to stop the hose from poping off:

vdumwWt.jpg


I also painted the steel parts of the pipe to tidy it up a bit, and fitted new O rings on the couplings.

I then refitted the oil cooler and the intercooler, finished the oil change and replaced the fuel filter. Then I drained a bit more transmission fluid out of the gearbox as it's been stood a few months since I did the first drain. I cleaned up round the gearbox sump, removed it and replaced the filter then fitted the sump before I naturally sheared the gearbox sump plug putting it back in with a new washer and disbelieving that 11ft/lb was enough to torque it in place.

The replacement bolts for the rear brake caliper carrier arrived finally just as I'd bought another with the replacement sump plug from Keith Gott as I needed them and they were only a little detour on my return to Kent with my son last Friday. All the brakes have been given a good clean up, fresh caliper grease on the slider pins, Deox-c de-rusting of the rear discs, new pads on the rear and new discs for the front.

Engine topped up with fresh 10W40 Semi-synthetic, possibly too much transmission fluid in the gearbox post a fluid change (when I had got to 7 litres down the filler tube without having run it I decided to stop filling), I then put the battery back on and turned the ignition on to see what would happen...

Not a lot. Silence from the EAS (door open), lots of bongs about windows, lights, EAS fault and transmission, moved the the gear selector around and that seemed to clear the transmission complaint, cycled the windows and it's still a bit unhappy with the nearside front. Tried to fire the engine, coughed a few times caught briefly then stopped coughing all together (like a fool I didn't prime the fuel filter). EAS doing nothing with door shut. Hum. Can't hear the fuel tank lifter pump doing anything either, more hum. This was late last night and I've rather had my fill of it this weekend tbh so I've had to give up till next weekend, which is immensly tiresome as I am about to exchange on my house and desparately need the RR to be running for the move of all my projects (2 x109's 1x88, a lathe, engines, 4 post ramp T25 camper van etc etc) because I may only have two weeks to get it all done!

I'm a bit unsure of the battery condition, I need to get my Noco charger onto it rather than the cheap Chinesium one I had to hand, because I know the Noco properly checks the condition.

I have the EAS Unlock suite with the dedicated 232 serial cable to OBD2 connector and matched USB to Serial converter supplied with the cable, but when I try the software I can't seem to configure the correct COM port (none of the 12 options seem to talk to the cable) So I'm a bit stumped.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Wires in back of OBD socket known to be dodgy at times. Check for corrosion etc
 
Slooby said:
I don't think that's the issue, yet, the software is supposed to be able to see the cable even when it's not plugged into the port on the car...but I could be wrong of course
Click to expand...
The computor should see the coms port when the cable is plugged into it . Go to Devices click coms and if cable is recognized it should show which coms port
 
Rubberknees said:
The computor should see the coms port when the cable is plugged into it . Go to Devices click coms and if cable is recognized it should show which coms port
Click to expand...
Sorry Right click start menu button list comes up click Device Manager then Ports which show coms in use
 
Yup, found it (I hate Windows 10) COM5 is the one, and EAS Unlock has found the cable and tried talking to it (with of course no reply as I'm 100 miles from the RR!) Guess I just missed clicking on COM5 yesterday while I was fiddling :rolleyes: Oh well, till Friday on tracking that one down...

Bloody annoying having an OBD 2 port that doesn't actually talk OBD protocol as the dedicated software and dedicated cables needs are mad money compared to the stuff that works on all BMW's with an OBD2 port for example...mutter grumble...bit like VW...
 
Slooby said:
Yup, found it (I hate Windows 10) COM5 is the one, and EAS Unlock has found the cable and tried talking to it (with of course no reply as I'm 100 miles from the RR!) Guess I just missed clicking on COM5 yesterday while I was fiddling :rolleyes: Oh well, till Friday on tracking that one down...

Bloody annoying having an OBD 2 port that doesn't actually talk OBD protocol as the dedicated software and dedicated cables needs are mad money compared to the stuff that works on all BMW's with an OBD2 port for example...mutter grumble...bit like VW...
Click to expand...
Top man . Onwards and upwards:D
 
I really hope I can get a tune out of it sharpish and one that is sensible in that the suspension behaves, the engine will start and I don't need a new lifter pump (there isn't an inline supply pump as well on this generation of BMW diesel engine is there like the later M57?), and that I can get the transmission all topped up and cycling fine.

If that goes to plan I should be able to put the wheelarch liners back on, wheels on, fit my breather catch can and do the more normal checks before an MoT of are the tyres ok, brakes working, wipers ok and all the lights coming on...I really could do with it coming together and not throwing me another problem to deal with...

Speaking of which my repair to the offside front door card failed and I've had to take it off again to try using JB Weld epoxy to bond the mounting points to the very old foam...that's got 5 days to set hard...
 
Slooby said:
I really hope I can get a tune out of it sharpish and one that is sensible in that the suspension behaves, the engine will start and I don't need a new lifter pump (there isn't an inline supply pump as well on this generation of BMW diesel engine is there like the later M57?), and that I can get the transmission all topped up and cycling fine.

If that goes to plan I should be able to put the wheelarch liners back on, wheels on, fit my breather catch can and do the more normal checks before an MoT of are the tyres ok, brakes working, wipers ok and all the lights coming on...I really could do with it coming together and not throwing me another problem to deal with...

Speaking of which my repair to the offside front door card failed and I've had to take it off again to try using JB Weld epoxy to bond the mounting points to the very old foam...that's got 5 days to set hard...
Click to expand...
Not much then:D:D
Only the pump in tank
 
Urgh...my OCD is screaming at me about not fixing everything, and I am forcing myself to just concentrate on doing enough to get the thing running and able to pull my trailer full of stuff about. As long as it can do that as capably as my mate's 109 with similar mileage 200tdi I'll be happy.

For example I have a 'Ronbox mk4' sitting in its bag ready to go on, but that isn't essential to get it through an MoT, it can wait
 
Slooby said:
The weaping oil cooler pipe has been replaced, with the ends of the steel pipe flared to stop the hose from poping off:

vdumwWt.jpg


I also painted the steel parts of the pipe to tidy it up a bit, and fitted new O rings on the couplings.

I then refitted the oil cooler and the intercooler, finished the oil change and replaced the fuel filter. Then I drained a bit more transmission fluid out of the gearbox as it's been stood a few months since I did the first drain. I cleaned up round the gearbox sump, removed it and replaced the filter then fitted the sump before I naturally sheared the gearbox sump plug putting it back in with a new washer and disbelieving that 11ft/lb was enough to torque it in place.

The replacement bolts for the rear brake caliper carrier arrived finally just as I'd bought another with the replacement sump plug from Keith Gott as I needed them and they were only a little detour on my return to Kent with my son last Friday. All the brakes have been given a good clean up, fresh caliper grease on the slider pins, Deox-c de-rusting of the rear discs, new pads on the rear and new discs for the front.

Engine topped up with fresh 10W40 Semi-synthetic, possibly too much transmission fluid in the gearbox post a fluid change (when I had got to 7 litres down the filler tube without having run it I decided to stop filling), I then put the battery back on and turned the ignition on to see what would happen...

Not a lot. Silence from the EAS (door open), lots of bongs about windows, lights, EAS fault and transmission, moved the the gear selector around and that seemed to clear the transmission complaint, cycled the windows and it's still a bit unhappy with the nearside front. Tried to fire the engine, coughed a few times caught briefly then stopped coughing all together (like a fool I didn't prime the fuel filter). EAS doing nothing with door shut. Hum. Can't hear the fuel tank lifter pump doing anything either, more hum. This was late last night and I've rather had my fill of it this weekend tbh so I've had to give up till next weekend, which is immensly tiresome as I am about to exchange on my house and desparately need the RR to be running for the move of all my projects (2 x109's 1x88, a lathe, engines, 4 post ramp T25 camper van etc etc) because I may only have two weeks to get it all done!

I'm a bit unsure of the battery condition, I need to get my Noco charger onto it rather than the cheap Chinesium one I had to hand, because I know the Noco properly checks the condition.

I have the EAS Unlock suite with the dedicated 232 serial cable to OBD2 connector and matched USB to Serial converter supplied with the cable, but when I try the software I can't seem to configure the correct COM port (none of the 12 options seem to talk to the cable) So I'm a bit stumped.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Good you found a working Coms port, just hope it connects to the OBD port, good luck with it.
 
Thanks for the compliments.

My big fear is that having tackled the usual mechanical jobs to get it to the state where it 'should' play a tune, I am about to be thwarted by the bit I particularly hate delving into on modern (ie anything with an electronic brain) vehicles and the electrics. Having owned, and still own, more than a few BMW's I know just how much of a pain they can be and here we have the added joy of it being an early mash up of British and German philosophies from a time when they didn't exactly trust each other (actually they never truely trusted each other full stop, and frequently the German route overuled the British way of dealing with an issue rightly or wrongly)...
 
Slooby said:
Thanks for the compliments.

My big fear is that having tackled the usual mechanical jobs to get it to the state where it 'should' play a tune, I am about to be thwarted by the bit I particularly hate delving into on modern (ie anything with an electronic brain) vehicles and the electrics. Having owned, and still own, more than a few BMW's I know just how much of a pain they can be and here we have the added joy of it being an early mash up of British and German philosophies from a time when they didn't exactly trust each other (actually they never truely trusted each other full stop, and frequently the German route overuled the British way of dealing with an issue rightly or wrongly)...
Click to expand...
Well you brought back some memories, not all good when I did my sill and wheel arch,I probably won't sleep tonight.:eek:;):D
 
Ok, so all the fluids changed, fuel filter primed, engine starts ok and seems to be fairly happy, was a bit tappety on first start up since I started working on it errr...well over 6 months ago.

Transmission fluid cycled many many times, low and high range, and topped up to what I hope is the correct level.

Now to the suspension, and it really does not want to play :(

Got EAS Unlock talking to the brain ok read the fault codes which were as simple as:

4. Air Supply Fault
7. Vehicle has moved

No real surprise there, seeing as I'd started out with a blown NSR bag and currently we're wheels off and in the air with the chassis and axles on axle stands.

Clicked Unlock, disconnected the cable, cycled the ignition. No more Christmas tree or errors on the dash display with the ignition in position 2. But also, despite all the doors and tailgate being shut no noises from the EAS valve block or pump. Ran the pump using the EAS software for a bit, couldn't hear any leaks but also no pressurisation of the system, possibly because of course the valve block isn't be activated by running the pump with an overide.

Cycled the ignition a few times, ran the engine a few times, nothing. All the time I was doing this I had an amber light on with a picture of the RR and an up arrow beneath it on the instrument cluster, and the suspension display sat with the second light down illuminated.

Then after turning the engine off and cycling the ignition between on and off I could hear some of the EAS valve block solenoids clicking away when the ignition was turned off, pausing breifly then repeating itself. Turning the ignition back on again and the EAS display decided to show the top two lights. Still have the dash showing the amber RR with an up arrow.

Then running the fault codes again resulted in this:

7MbH2ch.jpg


Crud

HELP!
 
Slooby said:
Ok, so all the fluids changed, fuel filter primed, engine starts ok and seems to be fairly happy, was a bit tappety on first start up since I started working on it errr...well over 6 months ago.

Transmission fluid cycled many many times, low and high range, and topped up to what I hope is the correct level.

Now to the suspension, and it really does not want to play :(

Got EAS Unlock talking to the brain ok read the fault codes which were as simple as:

4. Air Supply Fault
7. Vehicle has moved

No real surprise there, seeing as I'd started out with a blown NSR bag and currently we're wheels off and in the air with the chassis and axles on axle stands.

Clicked Unlock, disconnected the cable, cycled the ignition. No more Christmas tree or errors on the dash display with the ignition in position 2. But also, despite all the doors and tailgate being shut no noises from the EAS valve block or pump. Ran the pump using the EAS software for a bit, couldn't hear any leaks but also no pressurisation of the system, possibly because of course the valve block isn't be activated by running the pump with an overide.

Cycled the ignition a few times, ran the engine a few times, nothing. All the time I was doing this I had an amber light on with a picture of the RR and an up arrow beneath it on the instrument cluster, and the suspension display sat with the second light down illuminated.

Then after turning the engine off and cycling the ignition between on and off I could hear some of the EAS valve block solenoids clicking away when the ignition was turned off, pausing breifly then repeating itself. Turning the ignition back on again and the EAS display decided to show the top two lights. Still have the dash showing the amber RR with an up arrow.

Then running the fault codes again resulted in this:

7MbH2ch.jpg


Crud

HELP!
Click to expand...
You did not have "Good Idle" therefore that list of faults is meaningless. There is a coms problem
 
Ahh, I did run the fault codes after clicking Stop...oops...

Prior to that I had 'Good idle' and no fault codes showing when I clicked Read Faults.

But still nothing seems to be going on with the suspension though
 
Have you tried leaving the engine running with a door open for 10minutes ? The storage tank may be empty with standing so long and you having a leak. As posted no idle but if you get a list of faults that contradict each other it's bad comms.the clicking from the valve block is normal when switched off it trying to self level.
 
The tank is well and truly empty as I took it off to de-rust and paint.

I am getting most confused as to door open/closed to get the suspension to do anything. I've tried opening the door and leaving it open ignition off, ignition on at position 2 and engine running, and the same variations with all the doors shut and still don't hear the pump striking up.

Could it be confused by the suspension height being essentially at maximum because I have the axles at the height necessary to connect up the air springs and so not down on the bumpstops?
 
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