a difflock question if anyone has the time please?

i still dont seem to have drive to the wheels on my f reg 90 was asked last night if the diff lock was in neutral i have moved the lever through all four positions and still nothing but i have the clocks partially disconected and see in the wiring diragram there is a switch for locked for wheel drive will having my clocks unwired possibly cause loss of drive? everything seems to select from the gear levers thanks for any help given

also the few wires conected to the clocks show the diff lock light on with the lever in any position if that helps a diagnosis?

Gav1977 said:

i still dont seem to have drive to the wheels on my f reg 90 was asked last night if the diff lock was in neutral i have moved the lever through all four positions and still nothing but i have the clocks partially disconected and see in the wiring diragram there is a switch for locked for wheel drive will having my clocks unwired possibly cause loss of drive? everything seems to select from the gear levers thanks for any help given

Click to expand...

having the clocks disconnected won't make any difference - other than the DL light not illuminating

are you sure you understand what is the correct position for the levers ?

you might like to have a read up on how the DL is engaged, it's quite a sloppy system that could very well not be correctly adjusted, or may well be worn and not engaging fully

thank you i aint entirely sure what positions the levers should be in as i assumed it should have drive in any of the four positions and the transfer lever just altered the way the drive was applied ? am now guessing its not that simple?

You are correct that it should drive in any position
Other than neutral!

However it is very very unwise to drive in most of the positions on tarmac and really on one position (High No DL) should be used on tarmac.
With the odd occasion for (LO No DL) on tarmac as well.

Be sure that you are NOT IN DL before you drive it anywhere.

As Sean says do some reading, and it probably just needs the linkage adjusting.

cool thanks guys so whats my most common cause for loss of drive and does anyone know where i can access the imformation on the landrover system for the tranfer box diff lock and all its operating levers switches ?

Search....

at the top of the page.

again thanks for the help

high and low and diff lock although on same lever are different functions, high ,neutral and low work through lever to transfer box and has no synchro so is best selected with vehicle stood,there are 2 x 13mm spanner sized nuts to fine adjust linkage so that it goes into high/low properly,diff lock can be applied where ever high/low lever is and can be put in on the move but not a good idea if on firm surface or wheel /s spinning it is applied through a spring in transfer box so the fact lever is in any position doesnt mean necessarily diff lock selector is as well .when you push lever across to select diff lock spring is compressed and selector will go in /out of lock when diff and output shaft align,hence sometimes the need to reverse if wont come out on its own,switch lets you know where diff lock is in/out ,if switch is wound in too far this will stop selector from moving ,linkage is adjustable on eye pivot bolt on gear box the easiest way to set is by jacking one front wheel up and turning wheel it should lock when difflock applied then turn again when lever pulled out of lock,diff lock gives the same drive to each axle ,but you can still stand still if one front and one rear wheel spin, you can if necessary if something breaks loosing drive in either axle,remove prop to that axle and drive on other axle in diff lock ,this wont hurt vehiucle

thank you greatly that helps me undersatnd it a bit better. what is most likely to cause loss of drive althogether the engine is running great and feels like i can select all gear options, clutch peddle feels good and returns nicely but as i select a gear on the transfer lever there is a squeal similar to the sound of a slipping belt and my diff lock light stays perminatly lit although letting the clucth peddle up there is no attempt to move i can even start the landrover in gear without it wanting to move anywhere any help would be great

was it clunky before loss off drive,can you put gear box in out of gear easily without use of clutch,if you can clutch center chewed out no drive to gear box ,can you put hi/low into gear with gearbox in gear without using clutch if you can mainshaft /input gear splines worn loosing drive to transferbox, if you need clutch to change these gears center dif,axle diff ,cv ,drivemember splines worn/ broken

dont know just bought jeep as project friday been stood on a farm for 18 months so a bit of a mess at the min but almost everything is there for her so decided it would be a good base to start with but form what you said i am now suspecting the clutch either way i think the box out is my best start thank you

the J word !

i know sorry guys i know its not a american toy my bad wont happen again

i thought we where talking about landy not jeep ****,you try and do a starter motor change or oil feed pipe for heads on vm jeep

I posted this a few days back - should help remove any lingering confusion:

Land Rover Diff Lock Lever
First thing to know is how to operate the diff lock on your Land Rover.


(Haven't attached the photo - it's the small lever between the seat and the gear lever - it moves backwards and forwards and side to side!)


What does the diff lock do?
The diff lock joins the front and rear prop-shafts together so they turn at the same speed. Each axle then gets 50% of the power. If the front wheels loose traction, then the rear wheels will still drive the vehicle forward and vice versa.
However, if all four wheels loose grip, or diagonally opposed wheels loose grip, then you will still come to a halt - so the system is not without its limitations!

High, Neutral, Low!
You will also notice that the diff lock lever is marked with "H - N - L".
In normal driving you will have the lever in the "H" or high ratio set of gears. By moving the lever forward you can engage the low ratio or "L" gears for more control over the vehicle.
When in low ratio, start off in 2nd gear when pulling away. The diff lock can be used in both high and low ratio.

Land Rover Diff Lock Basics

• • To activate diff lock, you push the lever to the left - do this when you are stationary.
  • When diff lock is engaged a warning light will illuminate on the dash
  • To deactivate the diff lock, pull the lever back to the right again.
  • As soon as you are back on firm ground/tarmac, disengage the diff lock
  • After disengaging the diff lock, you may have to reverse a short distance to make the diff lock warning light go out.

Using the Land Rover Diff Lock in snow & ice

• • Always use diff lock when ascending and descending snowy and icy hills.
  • You can use the low ratio set of gears to add more control when driving on ice and snow.
  • Never touch the brakes when descending a snowy or icy hill - use engine braking in either 1st gear high ratio, or 1st/2nd in low ratio.
  • If the Land Rover starts to slide when descending a hill, accelerate using the throttle to bring the wheels up to the speed of the vehicle.

General Land Rover tips for snow and ice

• • When ascending or descending a snowy or icey hill, if there is an opportunity to put one set of wheels (right or left side) onto a grass verge this will increase your grip and help stop the Land Rover from sliding.
  • If there is no grass verge, but just a hedge, stick close to the hedge. Try to keep one set of wheels up close to the bottom of the hedge. If a slide develops then you can use the hedge to slow you down! A few paint scratches is better than bent panels!
  • Driving on fresh snow will give you better grip than driving in somebody else's tracks, so try to straddle any existing snowy tracks or ruts.
  • Remember this saying " take it as slow as possible, as fast as necessary!"
  • Remember, even though you can continue driving in worse conditions than 2wd cars, braking still remains the same as a normal car. Brake gently and if you haven't got ABS, then use cadence braking if you feel the wheels lock up. This basically means lots of short, sharp applications of the brake pedal in rapid sequence

again thank you all for the information i should have the gear box removed and gear box and clutch inspected tomorrow if i am not working and will post the cause of its problem/problems as i find them

it has turned out it is the clutch friction plate at fault the flywheel side been stripped completely the gear box and transfer box all seem fine and functioning as they should so thank you for all the info and not looking forward to lifting the transfer box back into place its a heavy bit of kit but a clutch kit should have her driving by the weekend

the clutch is in my 90 now she pulls well and selects every gear so thank you all for the input although a heavy job to do on my own at the end of the street but all done now so hopefully wont need doing again for a good while

glad yer sorted mate