99 p38 abs traction and speedo error code help

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Michael Gentry

Member
Posts
17
Location
Ilford, Essex
Hi all.

I am trying to fix a problem with the abs, tcr, and speedo not working. I gt the following errors from the nanocom. Sadly I'm on a steep learning curve and cant figure them out.

12-5 Front right sensor short to another sensor.
13-07 Brake switch failure
14-01 No battery supply voltage
23-01 No power at pump motor relay
23-02 Pump pressure switch fault
23-03 pump relay driver fault

I check and all sensors are showing 4.91v.

Can any one help.
 
I should imagine there are issues with the connections.

Normally a bit of damp builds up corrosion, this creates resistance and resistance is only your friend if you require heat...

Check under the drivers seat for damp affecting the multi plugs in the BeCM. This can cause all manner of hilarity.

Then check the route of the wiring and look for chafing and where the wires terminate, again, corrosion is a right pain. But check with a good light and even a magnifying glass because sometimes the corrosion can be so slight as to miss it 1st time with a naked eye.

My drivers window was getting volts, but not enough to make it work, corrosion on ONE pin created a mare, but I eventually sussed it.
 
initially all connectors look to be in good order within the cabin to the ecu under the drivers seat and the abs under the footwell. Visually I cant find anyting amis. Ill look further. However looking at the black abs relay it has blown up a little(the top as separated from the base. I have tested it and it does click ok but could this have an adverse effect with my problem?
 
Michael Gentry said:
initially all connectors look to be in good order within the cabin to the ecu under the drivers seat and the abs under the footwell. Visually I cant find anyting amis. Ill look further. However looking at the black abs relay it has blown up a little(the top as separated from the base. I have tested it and it does click ok but could this have an adverse effect with my problem?
Click to expand...
Could well be.

The clicking simply means it is getting a signal to close the points and allow the flow of electrickery, however, that doesn't actually mean that it is allowing any through...
 
I have re seated the block connectors. any i can find cleared the faults anyway. Now the system is showing no faults on the abs module however its the showing no abs, traction which I would have thought would go away until it finds a fault when the car is driven?
 
Sorry it Tue written abs and traction failure I get despite having no faults to read on the nanocom. Im sure if I go for a drive they will return however I'm stuck trying to figure out why I'd still have a problem and no faults at the moment. I'm trying to figure out if I could be a bad ecu as Im running out of idea. The advice I have been given has help me major it down but it's a big expense on a whim. Thoigh infant been able to complete count out wiring.
 
Michael Gentry said:
Sorry it Tue written abs and traction failure I get despite having no faults to read on the nanocom. Im sure if I go for a drive they will return however I'm stuck trying to figure out why I'd still have a problem and no faults at the moment. I'm trying to figure out if I could be a bad ecu as Im running out of idea. The advice I have been given has help me major it down but it's a big expense on a whim. Thoigh infant been able to complete count out wiring.
Click to expand...

Check the brake switch on Nanocom if you are getting ABS fault on message centre. Make sure the make and break switches are swapping senses as the pedal is pressed and released.
 
I have just taken the range for a drive to see if any faults return. Only the EAS had a fault and that was the ecu couldn't get a road speed. The ABS has no faults stored.
The following are shown on the Nanocom for the ABS

Sensor voltage on all four is 4.91 volts
wheel speed (km/h) is 1.7 on all four. I am puzzled as the car was stationary.
inlet valve (v) is front left and right 0.00 and rear left and right 0.06
Outlet valve (v) is ront right 0.00 and the rest 0.06.

I'm not sure if this means anything.

Mike
 
That is standard output for the wheel sensors, don't worry. If one goes open circuit, you would get ridiculous speed readings on it.

I think that is the resting value of the valves also, but I stand to be corrected.

My car sometimes throws up all three lights, I drive over 10mph for a few seconds and they go out. Then the usual ABS comes on next time I start and goes out after rolling a few metres.

Could be dirt or rust on the rings causing confusion.

One time, a Jeep Cherokee I had (I know, I know....) would stutter the brake pedal as the ABS kicked in for no apparent reason. Tracked it down to a loose wheel bearing. Replaced it and all was well.
 
I may be black flagged for this but I quite like the Cherokee haha.

That sounds apt. the underside isn't the cleanest I have seen. plenty of surface rust around the hubs.

Mike
 
As a further update. i had a look at the rings an they looked a little rusty but not too bad. ill get to clean then at the weekend now however the lights and warning have gone out. So i no longer have any warnings and faults on the abs ecu but i still have no speedo.
 
Michael Gentry said:
As a further update. i had a look at the rings an they looked a little rusty but not too bad. ill get to clean then at the weekend now however the lights and warning have gone out. So i no longer have any warnings and faults on the abs ecu but i still have no speedo.
Click to expand...
Michael Gentry said:
As a further update. i had a look at the rings an they looked a little rusty but not too bad. ill get to clean then at the weekend now however the lights and warning have gone out. So i no longer have any warnings and faults on the abs ecu but i still have no speedo.
Click to expand...

Road speed signal comes from ABS sensors 8000 beats per mile and it transmitted to instrument cluster and various other ECUs. The EAS ECU needs road speed signals to control crawl and motorway height adjustments. I would suspect ABS ECU. Or wiring connections to it.
 
I have completely disconnected the abs ecu and nothing changes. so I'm leading to the ECU like you said. I'm not really good with electronics so testing the loom other than visual is going to be a big challenge. Sadly I need to wait for payday before I can get a replacemtn so ill update when I get it in. Untill ill get on and clean what I can and test what I can.

Thanks for all your help

Mike

I do also need to clean the hubs as they are very rusty though only surface rust.
 
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