96 P38 2.5TD strange overheating issue

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ySo

New Member
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182
Today when going up a hill on the dual carriageway I put my foot down to get up to speed, it pulled fine til 3200 rpm then struggled and dropped revs and gear, couldn't get over 55mph and the temp rapidly climbed to near max.

Once on the straight and not letting the turbo kick in the temp dropped quickly back to normal.

It only happens when I put the foot down. It pulls up to over 4k on a straight fine

Possibly turbo pipes collapsing? Any ideas?

Thanks
 
You say try stopping it, is that the fan at the front? Sorry don't know a huge lot about cars but like to learn and diy
 
was reading this: Range Rover Viscous Coupling - Ashcroft Transmissions

It says if your wheels chirp or scrub on cornering it's a seized viscous coupling, I get that chirp/scrubbing on tight cornering at low speed.

Can the viscous coupling cause both the overheating and the issues described above of the overheating with the foot down?

Thanks
 
Started the car, put it in park and let it get up to temp. I could easily stop the fan

What does that mean?
 
Started the car, put it in park and let it get up to temp. I could easily stop the fan

What does that mean?

Its knackered and you have probably found your problem. The Ashcroft transmission viscous coupling is the one in the transfer gearbox and has nothing to do with your problem. :D:D The noise you hear could be the bearings in your fan or an idler pulley
 
any guides out there on removing and replacing it?

Plenty of posts on here, type in search box. When I replaced mine it came with the fan. Off the top of my head, remove cowl, large spanner think its 32 mm or an adjustable on nut (engine side of fan) sharp tap with lump hammer in the opposite direction of rotation remove fan. Apply plasters to cuts on finger and refit new fan/coupling. :):)
 
Plenty of posts on here, type in search box. When I replaced mine it came with the fan. Off the top of my head, remove cowl, large spanner think its 32 mm or an adjustable on nut (engine side of fan) sharp tap with lump hammer in the opposite direction of rotation remove fan. Apply plasters to cuts on finger and refit new fan/coupling. :):)
Sorry wrong again, it undoes in the direction of rotaion and it's a left hand thread.
Hurry up get off to the Canaries:)
 
Started the car, put it in park and let it get up to temp. I could easily stop the fan

What does that mean?

How hot was the engine/rad? was the rad hot down below not just at the top?

fan only kicks in when needed, i.e. viscous element heated up


Viscous fan from RAVE
There are two main components of the viscous fan
drive : An input (drive) member consisting of a
threaded shaft passing through a bearing into the
clutch plate and secured to the water pump. An output
(driven) member comprises the main body to which
the fan attaches, with the temperature sensing
mechanism (bi-metal coil) and pump plates.
The fan drive only has to be engaged periodically,
between 5% and 10% of the time during normal
driving conditions, because usually the vehicle is
cooled by ram air.
A bi-metal coil senses air temperature behind the
radiator. When a pre-determined temperature is
reached, the coil opens a valve which allows fluid to
enter the drive area. Centrifugal force circulates the
fluid to the annular drive area. There are two sets of
annular grooves, one in the drive clutch and the other
in the drive body, a specific clearance being provided
between the two sets of grooves. When this clearance
is filled with viscous fluid a shearing action, caused by
the speed differential between the two drive
components, transmits torque to the fan. The fluid is
thrown to the outside of the unit by centrifugal force
from where it is then re-circulated to the reservoir via
the pump plate adjacent to the drive member.
If the engine speed is increased, the amount of slip
will also increase to limit the maximum fan speed.
When the air temperature from the radiator drops
sufficiently, the bi-metal coil closes the valve and
prevents fluid entering the drive area, see 26M7026.
The fluid that is in the drive area will gradually pump
out into the reservoir and the fan will return to an idle
condition.
 
Will check the rad tomorrow. Just fit the PSI Power Box (bought it before this happened), it's pulling brilliantly til about 50-55 mph then if I keep the foot down it loses power til I take my foot off and just get up to speed slowly.

When it does overheat from trying to get past 55 with power it goes back to normal temp pretty quick when I stop putting my foot right down.
 
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