90 steering...more turns left than right???

I have replaced the track rod and jonts and now just trying to sort a few remaining issues with the steering....
when road wheels are straight the steering wheel is not?
also from road wheels in the straight position i have more turns left than right, approx quarter of a turn more?

Get yer tracking sorted

the_wolf said:

Get yer tracking sorted

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Easy done with the string, stillsons and a bit of trial and error. I used 4" concrete blocks to anchor the string behind the rear wheels but you could tie it to the toe-bar or get someone to hold it. Pull it tight across to the front bumper.

Set up on a level hard-standing. Find out what your toe-in is supposed to be and adjust until steering wheel is centred and required toe-in is achieved. Take for a drive and check for pull to left or right. Park up and re-adjust. Repeat until you are satisfied. Last time I did this it took me 2 or 3 attempts to get it right.

Easiest way to get it close is to jack off the chassis so all wheels are off the floor. As you haven't changed the steering wheel to steering box relationship, now set it so that the steering wheel is straight and that the drop arm is also straight, this means the wheels will be well off and pointing one way or the other. Adjust the drag arm so the wheels are roughly straight. One is very likely 'off' to the other, then adjust the track rod to set the tracking, using a string from the rear towbar, pulled round to the front such that it lies along the centre of the wheels/tyres/hubs to give you a rough reference line.

Basically the drag arm (the front arm) sets the steering direction, the track rod (behind axle) sets toe in or out. The Panhard rod sets the axle/chassis relationship and shouldn't need to be changed unless you've lifted it or changed a bush or end.

If you want it done correctly and accurately then just pay for it, it shouldn't be any more than £40 and at least you know your tracking will be spot on

the_wolf said:

If you want it done correctly and accurately then just pay for it, it shouldn't be any more than £40 and at least you know your tracking will be spot on

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£40???? its £17 round here !

I only paid £20 for mine but that's cos I did most of the work. Depends where you get it done

the_wolf said:

If you want it done correctly and accurately then just pay for it, it shouldn't be any more than £40 and at least you know your tracking will be spot on

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+1 in the money you're saving doing it yourself you're losing in not being as accurate and premature tyre wear

the_wolf said:

If you want it done correctly and accurately then just pay for it, it shouldn't be any more than £40 and at least you know your tracking will be spot on

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Not if you go to any place that doesn't 'know' Landrovers .... of which there are many ...

Paul D said:

Not if you go to any place that doesn't 'know' Landrovers .... of which there are many ...

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Which is why I did my own. Closer than the garage was likely to get it with the satisfaction of having done it myself. Once set up I never had any issues.

Caberfeidh said:

Which is why I did my own. Closer than the garage was likely to get it with the satisfaction of having done it myself. Once set up I never had any issues.

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Quite.

I wouldn't like to drive to a garage knowing I had obviously way off steering .. anything happens on the way and you're completely screwed by Insurance etc

Paul D said:

Easiest way to get it close is to jack off the chassis so all wheels are off the floor. As you haven't changed the steering wheel to steering box relationship, now set it so that the steering wheel is straight and that the drop arm is also straight, this means the wheels will be well off and pointing one way or the other. Adjust the drag arm so the wheels are roughly straight. One is very likely 'off' to the other, then adjust the track rod to set the tracking, using a string from the rear towbar, pulled round to the front such that it lies along the centre of the wheels/tyres/hubs to give you a rough reference line.

Basically the drag arm (the front arm) sets the steering direction, the track rod (behind axle) sets toe in or out. The Panhard rod sets the axle/chassis relationship and shouldn't need to be changed unless you've lifted it or changed a bush or end.

Click to expand...

thanks paul
not sorted yet but your bit of detail and advice has helped greatly in me getting my head around how the steering works or dosnt in my case....

from my understanding of your advice was once positioned the drop link from the steering box in the straight forward position then the steering wheel in the straight position i then disconected the ball joint on the other end of the drag link ie passenger side in order to straighten up the passenger wheel...regarless of ajustment of the drag link lenght via swisting the ball joint in to the link end as far is it would go and resecuring the clamp i can not get the wheel straight othen turning it straight which in turn then moves the drop link and steering wheel off center again...therefore only really achived to fit new track rod and ball joints...
good job its a bank holiday

have i missed somethingor just misinterpreted your advice

Do you mean when the steering and drop arm are straight, the nearside wheel is 'off' but the offside wheel is straight? If so, and if the nearside wheel is pointing out, then you need to adjust the trackrod, this can be done from both ends, but keep the offside wheel straight whilst adjusting.

I thought from your description that both wheels were out when the steering wheel is straight.

I think your adjustments may be way out, in which case, I'd start afresh. Undo all the adjuster locknuts and remove the ball joints. Set the steering wheel and drop link straight, lower the wheels to the ground so there's weight on them and move the wheels separately so they're pointing straight. Then set the draglink and trackrod lengths to suit. Try to keep the ball joints with roughly the same number of threads each side, in other words, adjust them so the rods are evenly spaced between the joints. Attach the ball joints and tighten up, move the vehicle backwards and forwards at least a whole wheel revolution, then re-check using the string method that the front wheels are straight and even. Then check that the droplink and steering wheel are still also straight. Nip the adjusters up and drive it a little, re-do any adjustments until you've got it spot on, but it shouldn't be far away.

If your stuck mate I can pop over and give you a hand if you want.its dead easy to sort it.

AndyD90 said:

I have replaced the track rod and jonts and now just trying to sort a few remaining issues with the steering....
when road wheels are straight the steering wheel is not?
also from road wheels in the straight position i have more turns left than right, approx quarter of a turn more?

Click to expand...

Did you alter the drag links too, or are you calling the drag link the track arm? I guess you didn't renew the drop arm as you didn't mention this - so assuming this is true read on.

You need to wind the drag link, to split the difference, not to be confused with the tie link, tie bar, track link/arm...

If you think of it this way, if the drag link is too short, you will never be able to drag the road wheels all the way left because the drop arm will stop turning before it gets the chance to take the road wheels all the way to the left, if the arm is too long, the arm will never get enough movement to drag the road wheels all the way over to the right, but there would be only a few turns required to get the road wheels fully left.

Tracking is the wheel tracking and will not alter this - if you suspect you have altered the track, get it tracked properly.

For the wheel steering number of rotations issue it sounds like you're too far to the right, loosen the FRONT bar at both ends, get the stilsons/grips/whatever you have and turn it a couple of turns to make the rod slightly longer, this should then mean the NS wheel will start to creep left (actually the steering wheel will probably turn - no bother). Now see how that does, get it about right then lock it all up.

Alright Andy...
I manage to get it back to as it was not great but manageable for the time being...I have a pair of swivel pins to replace very shortly so spent more than enough time considering will be dropping a the joint again to do the pins...all threads copper eased so should be easy enough when it comes to it...
I have a better understanding now I think?
No better way to learn than get involved it just knowing procedure

AndyD90 said:

Alright Andy...
I manage to get it back to as it was not great but manageable for the time being...I have a pair of swivel pins to replace very shortly so spent more than enough time considering will be dropping a the joint again to do the pins...all threads copper eased so should be easy enough when it comes to it...
I have a better understanding now I think?
No better way to learn than get involved it just knowing procedure

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If you have straightened out the steering wheel to road wheel relationship, I suggest you now get your tracking done properly now.