Steering Rack Refitted Causes Issues

Recently I have been having issues with my beloved Freelander 1 TD4 2006.
The E Torx bolt which fixes the driver’s side track rod (no. 28 in the attached image) broke in the steering rack.
We therefore had to remove the steering rack to remove the broken bit of bolt.
Before refitting the steering rack we checked that the hole (where there bolt fits) was not damaged and the bolt fitted fully.
We bought a new E Torx bolt and refitted the steering rack. The E Torx bolts were fitted with blue thread lock and one washer each.

We now have the following 2 problems:

1) When the E Torx bolts are fully tightened it’s impossible to turn the steering wheel completely to the right or left. However, when the bolts are slackened slightly the steering wheel can be turned fully left and right. How do we get that steering wheel to turn completely when the bolts are fully tightened, as they should be?

2) After numerous turns of the steering wheel we now have a new problem whereby on turning the steering wheel:
- the track rods no longer move but instead
- the right side of steering rack (around the rack mounting bracket area - no.16 in attached image) moves left or right depending on the direction the steering wheel is turned, while the rest of the steering rack remains fixed
- when the vehicle is jacked up so that the front wheels are off the ground and the steering wheel is turned, the track rods move left and right and the entire steering rack remains fixed.
My understanding is that the entire steering rack should remain fixed and just the track rods pulled left or left when turning the steering wheel. How do we ensure that the entire steering rack remains fixed when the steering wheel is turned?

Are bolts 22 the correct length, with the correct spacer block, bushing and bridging plate (all parts between No23 and 26) are in pl? If the bolts are too long, they protrude into the back of the rack body, causing drag and damage, so it's vital that the bolts are the correct length, and all components are fitted.
The rack body can't move from left to right unless the bolts between the rack and bulkhead (No1 in picture) are loose or missing.

Nodge68 said:

Are bolts 22 the correct length, with the correct spacer block, bushing and bridging plate (all parts between No23 and 26) are in pl? If the bolts are too long, they protrude into the back of the rack body, causing drag and damage, so it's vital that the bolts are the correct length, and all components are fitted.
The rack body can't move from left to right unless the bolts between the rack and bulkhead (No1 in picture) are loose or missing.

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Nodge68, many thanks for your response.

Yes, bolts 22 are the correct length and do not protrude at the back of the rack body.
Of the 2 original bolts one broke and the replacement is identical to the other original.

Of the parts 23 to 26 mentioned, the inner track rod bush (24), spacer (25) and slider/bush assembly (26) are present. There is no support plat (23) but a washer.

The part of the steering rack that is moving when the steering wheel is turned is between feed pipes (10 & 11) to the right of the rack, not the entire rack. I have just noticed that in that area the pipe support bracket (12) and bolt (13) are missing. Not sure whether this will make a difference, as it's only use is to support the right hand side of the rack. However, I will double check the bulkhead to ensure that the bolts are properly fixed to the rack.

There must be a bridging plate between the tie bar bolts, as this is a vital part of the assembly. Not having that bridging plate will allow the load on the tie bars to bend the bolts or rack central section.

Nodge68 said:

There must be a bridging plate between the tie bar bolts, as this is a vital part of the assembly. Not having that bridging plate will allow the load on the tie bars to bend the bolts or rack central section.

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Thanks for this information, Nodge68.
Just wanted to ask a couple of questions:
1) Is the bridging plate needed for the TD4 2006 model? (If so, I will get one).
2) When removing the steering rack apart from the 2 bolts fixed to the bulkhead where are the other 2 bolts located?

zimaria said:

Thanks for this information, Nodge68.
Just wanted to ask a couple of questions:
1) Is the bridging plate needed for the TD4 2006 model? (If so, I will get one).
2) When removing the steering rack apart from the 2 bolts fixed to the bulkhead where are the other 2 bolts located?

Click to expand...

Q1, The bridging plate is a vital part of the rack, and must be fitted to all FL1s, regardless of year.
Q2, There are 4 bolts in total. There are 2 at the column end, which secure the rack to the bulkhead on the driver's side, and 2 more on passenger side for the clamp.

Nodge68, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Today I'll be working on the vehicle armed with your information.
Primarily, I need to sort out why the steering rack (instead of the track rods) is moving when the steering wheel is turned.
I am concerned about this movement as it can twist the feed pipe (11) and potentially damage it.
My focus today will be:
1) Ensure that those 4 bolts are properly fastened;
2) Attach the rack mount bracket (14, 15 &16) which seem missing.

Any suggestion as to why the steering rack (the part between 10 & 11) moves when the steering wheel is turned but when the front tyres are jacked off the ground track rods move?

I'm assuming that some parts of the rack attachment to the bulkhead are missing, as it can't move if it's bolted to the bulkhead with all mountings. Bolts No1 on the column end, and bolts 15 + bracket 16 and rubber isolator 14, all need to be secure.

My apologies, I made a mistake above in (2).
Should have said:
2) Attach the pipe support bracket (12 &13) which seem missing.

I will ensure that the 4 bolts are fully secure.
I will try to get a bridging plate too although my mechanic friend who is helping does not think its needed.
He thinks that as there is a inner track rod bush (24) in the track rod a large washer will do. I trust you.

Well, today I ensured that the 4 bolts fixing the steering rack to the body of the vehicle were securely fastened, as well as the 2 bolts fixing the track rods to the steering rack. Again, when the steering wheel was turned the right side of the steering rack moved again. As the steering wheel is turned I can see the movement of a mechanism housed within the rubber housing of the steering rack which eventually pushes beyond the rubber housing to the area between 10 & 11. My understanding is that the movement under the rack's rubber sleeve is needed to move track rods. However, the movement shouldn't go beyond the rubber housing.

I am thinking that there may be an obstacle under the rubber sleeve which is causing the steering rack's movement to the area between 10 & 11. So I am now looking around for the diagram of the steering rack's internal mechanism to get a feel for what may be the cause the rack movement. I may even end up opening rack to have a look inside.

The bridging plate is part of the rack structure. The track rod bolts must be supported by each other (the bridging plate joins them together), without it the drive in the centre of the rack will be damaged or the bolts will break. It's a vital component which can't be left off. If you can't find one, or the rack is already damaged, why not just replace it. They are cheap second hand and seldom wear out.

The rack is attached to the bulkhead through rubber bushings, so it can move slightly against the body. However the movement needs to be tiny, almost undetectable.

I have now bought a second hand steering rack complete with the bridging plate, track rode bolts and feed pipes (10 & 11) (as 11 is leaking on mine). Cost £109 (including delivery). The cheaper ones were only for the bare rack with none of the other components. One dealer was asking for another £99 to include the pipes in addition to the £100 cost. Now awaiting delivery.

Just read an article (hyper link given below) indicating that if all 4 bolts are securely tightened then, the rubber insert (14) should be checked for movement when the steering wheel is turned. It should be replaced if in poor condition, such as: general looseness, and perishing or other signs of deterioration. So before replacing the rack I will do these checks to decide whether the rubber insert needs changing, as I am not sure where the replacement comes with it.

I have now replaced the steering rack.
The following components were missing but were provided with the second hand rack:
1) bridging plate (23)
2) Space (25)

Problem (1) was caused by the absence of the spacer (25) allowing the bolts to screw deeper into the rack than they should.
Problem (2) was as a result of the damaged drive.

Nodge68, many thanks for your help.
You were spot on with your suggestions and I am very appreciative. Blessed love from Saint Lucia.