90 boot floor replace

Right, my 90's boot floor has a few holes in places where that has been some galvanic corrosion, I can buy a sheet of 1.5mm ali for about £50 and just replace it. A couple of small coach bolts and some rivits and it looks like it should be free to come out.

The tub is getting resprayed so I decided that I would just renew it and get it looking good, thing is I am just going to cover it with a rubber load mat so does it really matter? Has anyone repaired them before? I was thinking of getting some sort of panel adhesive that is quite thin, cutting out the worst of the corrosion, glue on the new panel, maybe a few rivits and then a liberal coating of seam sealer to the underside before painting the whole tub (off the vehicle) with rubberised underseal (or something good with some sound deadening properties - ideas welcome) then painting the whole lot either black or white (same colour as vehicle).

Thoughts please.

Also, I am going to to my tub cappings, does anyone have some in half decent shape for sale - I will clean them up and get them dipped anyway so don't ware about the finish.

Have seen some with small holes plated - as you say, if covered with rubber matting it doesn't have to be pretty

Last one I saw patched was a bit bodged - they used epoxy to stick the patch on, but it worked in terms of keeoping water out - guess it depends on the size of hole you start with!

Personally would cut a replacement sheet to fit and either bolt or rivnut back in

Right, I think I'll just go for a new one, the old floor can be cut up and used as ali stock for bits and pieces.

I need to get some plate to fix the fronts of the tub where it meets the seatbox sides, it's corroded out, a local TIG welder would come in handy right about now, good adheive and rivets should suffice.

I replaced the rear tub floor in my old Series IIa just by carefully spotting and drilling the spot welds and various rivets. Cut a piece of 4mm checker plate (because thats what I found at the back of the workshop) to size with a jigsaw using the old floor as a template. Just pop rivetted the floor back in with a bead of silicone around the edges. Looked factory when done and painted. I will say that kneeling on checker plate is none too comfortable though so if I had to do it again I'd use a smooth plate or reverse the checker.

Removing the old floor also lets you get at the top side of the chassis and clean/repair any hidden nooks and crannies before you put the new floor in. You could use large self tappers so it will come out easy if needed but its just as quick to drill the rivets. How often do you want to take the floor out?