110 Pickup Chassis/Bulkhead Swap order of events

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foggy23

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So the new Chassis and Bulkhead arrives in a week, so time to start thinking about stripping down the workhorse (110 TD5 pickup)

Has anyone any advice on the best order of events for the bulkhead/chassis?

I’m currently considering lifting the full body off, tidying up all the axles/props, swapping suspension, clutch change, transfer box seal, brake lines, brake systems/ rear loom etc. then dropping it back down, swapping the bulkhead once the body is back on, and then back together. (Sounds simple right?) if anyone has a better plan from their experiences though!

Ultimate my plan is to either replace the rear tub, or cut it off and make it a flatbed/tipper, but I don’t have the capital for that at the moment so it’s a back seat.. unless the knowledgable users of Landy zone reckon it’s going to be cheaper to ditch the rear tub now due the inevitable repairs to a tub that gets abused having logs thrown into it everyday. There’s plenty of work to be done on the doors and body, but again that’s taking a back seat as this is the work truck, and i need to prioritise getting it on the road over making it look pretty currently
 

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Get axles, suspension done and items like fuel lines, brake lines, [ fit loom to rear on top of chassis in a cover] steering pipes fitted to new chassis.
Now I would fit the rear tub you have. This is because the tub fixing to the rear cross member is the fixed point of the build, you will then have a starting point to get the bulkhead in the correct position with the right door gap at bottom, middle and top if you now fit cab to tub to get correct screen angle. All of this will take much longer than you think. Good luck.
 
tottot said:
Get axles, suspension done and items like fuel lines, brake lines, [ fit loom to rear on top of chassis in a cover] steering pipes fitted to new chassis.
Now I would fit the rear tub you have. This is because the tub fixing to the rear cross member is the fixed point of the build, you will then have a starting point to get the bulkhead in the correct position with the right door gap at bottom, middle and top if you now fit cab to tub to get correct screen angle. All of this will take much longer than you think. Good luck.
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Completely agree with the above in terms of order first thing is axles and suspension, followed the fuel tank. Then plumb and wire everything along the chassis. Would second running the rear loom along the top of the chassis rail in conduit. After this it is dealers choice of rear tub or engine/gearboxes. I would also not fit the body as a single item, it may be a little more work to break it down but the final fit and finish will be much better as mentioned above the tub is the fixed point and should be fitted first as everything else is adjusted and aligned from that.

I would add to this that first things you have to do on both the chassis and bulkhead is a lot of prep work before any fitting can commence. I would strongly recommend not leaving either item as bare galv and properly painting and sealing both items before undertaking any other work. This is probably a minimum of a weeks work before anything else can be started. Twash both items and fully dry, seam seal the bulkhead, prime both items, paint both items, waxoil/dinitrol/similar internals of both items, waxoil/dinitrol/similar externals of the chassis after paint. Once all of this has been done then start fitting things to the chassis in the order discussed above.
 
Plus one on all the items above I did not mention and then when it is up and running sort a tipper back. To do this best to source a lower cab rear from a Hicap landy.
 
Cheers folks! That’s all the paint arrived etc, and order put in for the replacements bits and pieces (so far).

Was initially planning on replacing rear wiring loom but after seeing the cost of a TD5 one I’ve decided I’ll just fix the scrappy/snapped plugs!

Body is off and chassis is ready to be stripped today, Chassis and Bulkhead arrive Friday so hopefully the prep commences soon!
 

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Been away for a while so here’s the next update; the chassis is in. Decided not to paint it as I was only going to have enough to do half of it; plus I like the look 😂 axles tidied up, brakes replaced, suspension and bushes replaced, some spicy colour ways and not waiting on the LOF Power spec clutch and SMF to arrive. On with painting the bulkhead now, ready to swap this weekend. MOT booked for March 1st but that will depend if I king cab it or not!
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So body is on and bulkhead is changed!


Fresh LOF Power spec clutch went in, she’s coming together!

Still a couple of issues to address though before MOT..



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And she’s back!


Will do a full write up of my process later, but through the MOT last week and good to go despite some last minute dramas. (Crank sensor, broken fuel line ends, non starting the night before MOT).

Most satisfying part is by far the fact my doors close now! Next job is to repair them 😂




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Top job, this is on my list as well... I would be interested in the timings for the efforts.

How long to lift the tub.....
How long from that until engine remove ?
How long to remove stuff from the chassis... ?

Just ballpark...
 
ER1C said:
Top job, this is on my list as well... I would be interested in the timings for the efforts.

How long to lift the tub.....
How long from that until engine remove ?
How long to remove stuff from the chassis... ?

Just ballpark...
Click to expand...
Sorry mate, missed this!

At the time i was probably 2/3 days to lifting the body off, engine/gearbox out not much longer than that. If i was to do it again i think i could condense that into a day as I would know what to just cut out, and wouldnt need to spend so long faffing with bits i didnt actually need to worry about.

I was probably 1 or 2 days to strip everything off the old chassis, but again I tried to retain a lot of stuff that I ended up just getting rid of in the end.

100% id recommend just spending the money on new fixings all round, as well as body mounts and stuff like that as being able to just cut them off and replace is going to make it much more efficient.
 
Looks good! Just needs a pair of rock sliders to protect the vulnerable bodywork from knocks and careless car doors!
 
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