4.4 rv8 build thread (Doc evil need not post)

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
tomorrow for a pic or two of the pistons with the borescope James and noisy its an 88mm bore engine :D

Ive got some bloke in aus who reckons he can tell by the dish if they are low or high. the high are only 9:1 so apparently if I fit landrover 8.13:1 it should bring it to 9.5:1 which I reckon is good comp with out having to pee about with super unleaded :)
 
Hi gents, the borescope pics are in

Land Rover Zone - fett's Album: Borescope pics on the p76 engine


Please have a look :)

Its only one bank btw, Ive to send the pics off to my Aussie expert to tell me what pistons I am running.

TBH with the compression test results I had I would have thought it was a 9:1 not the 8:1 I fear but when I rand about the rusty rockers dunsfolds said that if the engine has not been run for a while the lack of pressure in the lifters can cause the valves to not open fully and give false readings of high compression.

What are our thoughts? TBH after cranking 8 times would they not be pumped up? mind you the engine did only have 3 litres of oil left in it lol.
 
not seen the cut out below the rings in them before, stripped 3 rv8s and not seen it

was I being mr magoo?, or is it more likely I forgot and they are there in my scrap pile lol
 
Last edited:
Hey Fett
Just talked to one of my old work mates that worked for leyland when these motors came out. He suggests when it comes time for fitting the heads and the inlet manifold you first need to fit the manifold and fully have it bolted down before the heads bolts finish being tightened. They were prone to inlet leaks around the head and this was the best way to prevent from occuring.
 
Cool thanks mate, My plan at the moment is to get that carb off you, rebuild the carb and fit it (as it turns out the one I have is from a ford falcon)

Get any debris out of the valley with my magnet and borscope (there isnt much), take of the front cover and check the chain then put the front cover back and the rocker covers. put a new dizzy in and a put a rad and a few guages on.

I am then going to put it in to an engine cradle I have bought cheap and run it up, get it up to temp and do a compression test on it and check for leaks. we shall see if its good then or needs a re-build. shame a cold compression test isnt so acurate with the lifters not fully working (potentially).
 
well gents I finally got 3 hours in the garage tonight and it was a bit of a bugger. we started by borecope inspecting the valley and oil drains for rust debris and found the swarf you see in the bottom of the white cup in the rear drain of the drivers side bank, it was quite shiny too. no rust debris inside though so I was on the fence about a re-build (noisy ears prick up :p )

we then swapped tot he other side so while my apprentice was inspecting and cleaning that side he found no debris internally but plenty on the head surface covered in sludge which is what you can see on the card wit one bit looking like a washer. when I came in I noticed the crack in the head as we had cleaned the block ages ago and I was like where the fook is that oil coming from. its a bastard as it goes all the way to the plughole other wise I could have had it tigged up at work. I then noticed two more smaller ones on the same head. I am guessing they dropped it in shipping to dunsfolds or at dunsfolds during removal. they picked it up with chains round the fanimoulds which I never liked anyway.

bugger! :(

When we got the sump off its sooo clean in there too, the pistons look new. it must have been apart before as its engraved all over. as best as I can tell the timing chain looks new and is not slack. such a shame to have to strip it all now and a waste of cash too (mind you I was going to pay 3 times what this cost just to get the block shipped from aus anyway)

oh well, best decide what heads to get then :D

Land Rover Zone - fett's Album: Buggeration
 
just pull it to pieces and go from there ,at least you will know whats what when you put it back together ,you might find water marks on the crank:eek:
 
I know mate, its coming apart but I am going to need a new head for sure- I just need to decide on the best route!
 
Pah.

Sorry to hear you have had buggeration, for the record.

Plus side is you get it in a million pieces and inspect every part!

Downside is it costs you more money, especially if you find more trouble, but hey, better than it letting you down in a big way some day...

What heads are available?!?!

Will RV8 fit?

If so, you have even more option to play about with your compression ratio.

Cheers :)
 
yeah apparently all the rv8 heads will fit, I am worried about the oiling though as the p76 is lubed through the hollow pushrods which I will have to keep how will that get oil to the standard rv8 heads?
 
Buggeration:

Just gave real steel a call as I was hoping they had solved the supply issues with the uk rv8 rocker shafts and arms and they have not and do not carry them anymore.

who was it that siad they managed to find the parts NOS after a lot of looking, johnnyT?

I NEED YOUR HELP
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Mark Piercy
P38A Seals and seals!!!
Replies
11
Views
705
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Airgunner
Disco 2 rocker shaft snapped
Replies
9
Views
715
Airgunner
Airgunner
R
19J starter solenoid
Replies
8
Views
398
RedGrouse
R
J
90 Defender 300Tdi engine swap - update & question
Replies
4
Views
719
jer_300Tdi_90
J
S
Lucas headlight sealed beam questions
Replies
0
Views
344
sprie
S
Back
Top