300tdi wont turn over?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
So...
If the bore hasn't been buggered it should be a case of un bolt leg no. 4 from the crank and replace the piston. Bolt it back in?

Yes but some honing may be required.

From what i;ve been told, this engine was a decent runner before it decided to have a tantrum and offer its piston to the gods. 136k miles on it i think.

Should I replace the picton with a genuine item or are the white box pistons ok?

That I can't tell you. My engine was similar mileage to yours when it was removed. I sold the old engine in bits for more than I paid for the new one rather than rebuilding it. I could put a finger on my piston and wobble it from side to side.

I would say go for genuine to be on the safe side. I spend my life on the road and not in a workshop so luckily I don't get to do engine rebuilds often. Sombody else on here may be able to tell you how they've got on with a non genuine part.
 
I spent quite some time trying to get the piston out of the block today, and the result is special ;)
 

Attachments

  • 100_4099.jpg
    100_4099.jpg
    240.8 KB · Views: 240
  • car bit 2.jpg
    car bit 2.jpg
    239.4 KB · Views: 225
  • 100_4095.jpg
    100_4095.jpg
    239.9 KB · Views: 224
  • 100_4097.jpg
    100_4097.jpg
    250 KB · Views: 229
Yeah. The way the piston rings have become one with the piston, and the layer of aluminium left in the bore kinda give that away doesn't it :eek:

that engine would have been knocking it's tits off for quite a while before giving up the ghost. I did about 3000 miles on mine and it still wasn't that bad. That includes a non stop drive from Endinburgh to Bath. I rekon the guy that sold it to you woulda known how bad it was too.
 
It was cheap enough. The chap I got it from made no bones about it having died a death and being cooked.

Can the aluminium deposits in the bore be removed or is the block toast?
 
Back
Top