300tdi wont run below 600rpm

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Glb8686 said:
600rpm seems a bit low for it to be running anyway? Little more loud pedal to sort it?

Wouldn't know peraonally as I don't have a rev counter
Click to expand...

Ticks over at 750

The 600 was my guess at when it stalled when setting off

Seems that there is no power low down like it should have and it wont start once stopped even when hot, not firing...zilch

have to start it on ether then it ticks over lovely and goes ok but a little down on power.:)
 
Steviecops said:
Don't know if your problem is the bio, or not, but here's a couple of pictures that may help. This one is of the bio when I removed it from the tank after breaking down.

B225F062-E5DD-47C7-8740-CAF87CE6C5AB-3298-0000065C9A38520C.jpg


This one is after washing it again and drying it properly. Just trying to pluck up the courage to pour it back into my tank after it was so unkind to me last week! But even I've got to admit, that bio wasn't finished when I put it in on Boxing day. Lesson learned. If your going to run your motor on alternative fuel, don't cut corners. :)

97F8B774-93AE-42AC-86B6-00228B4FCBE8-5450-00000A63496D8809.jpg
Click to expand...

How are you DRYING your bio?

I am using cold filtered veg oil, and not had any probs, checked for water content in a hot pan.....
 
plastic soul said:
How are you DRYING your bio?

I am using cold filtered veg oil, and not had any probs, checked for water content in a hot pan.....
Click to expand...

I'll try a sample tomorrow

Might feed some diesel direct into lift pump and bleed through see if it starts then:)
 
plastic soul said:
How are you DRYING your bio?

I am using cold filtered veg oil, and not had any probs, checked for water content in a hot pan.....
Click to expand...

Heated up and pumped through a spray bar. First time, I just dried it for an hour and that obviously wasn't enough. Dried it for two and a half hours yesterday and it looks much better. Will keep an eye on it for a few day before putting it back in the car.
 
1.Take a sample of your fuel in a small pot.
2.weigh it and note weight.
3. heat up beyond 100c
4.Cool down and re-weigh
5.no change in weight = dry fuel
bubbling in step 3. equals water and plenty of it
 
biolandy said:
1.Take a sample of your fuel in a small pot.
2.weigh it and note weight.
3. heat up beyond 100c
4.Cool down and re-weigh
5.no change in weight = dry fuel
bubbling in step 3. equals water and plenty of it
Click to expand...


Will do that over the weekend thanks

does the water content sink to the bottom of the drum if left for say a week:)
 
Free water will drop quite quickly if left undisturbed,but suspended water in the fuel will take ages to come out and needs either heat or sunlight to drive it off.Bio can be hygroscopic,whereby it drags moisture out of wet air.
If your fuel is bright any shiny,even if a sample is stored in the fridge,you should be good to go.Getting the bio dry is to stop corrosion inside fuel lines etc rather than running problems
 
biolandy said:
Free water will drop quite quickly if left undisturbed,but suspended water in the fuel will take ages to come out and needs either heat or sunlight to drive it off.Bio can be hygroscopic,whereby it drags moisture out of wet air.
If your fuel is bright any shiny,even if a sample is stored in the fridge,you should be good to go.Getting the bio dry is to stop corrosion inside fuel lines etc rather than running problems
Click to expand...

Thanks
The drum of bio I bought was part used straight away with no running problems even in the cold weather.

It was left to stand a couple of weeks and then more drawn off via a pump wich draws from the bottom of the drum.
This is why I'm thinking that I have a contamination problem:)
 
Not had time to look at Disco today, running people hither and thither, just bloody got in now.

Had a thought though in case its not the fuel

The 300 does not put out any smoke when the engine starts, not a hint, nowt, zilch.

Could I have a cold start problem, how does the excess fuel device work please, anyone know?:)
 
I remember being warned off EASYSTART in a big way when I was at college, and again on the farm, and again in the Army. Engines become 'addicted' to EASYSTART, and often, once used, will not start without it. At all. I'm thinking this may be part of the problem.
 
blackhadder said:
I remember being warned off EASYSTART in a big way when I was at college, and again on the farm, and again in the Army. Engines become 'addicted' to EASYSTART, and often, once used, will not start without it. At all. I'm thinking this may be part of the problem.
Click to expand...
no they dont, but if you dont fix the issue giving poor starting it aint going to fix itself hence the need for more easystart
 
blackhadder said:
I remember being warned off EASYSTART in a big way when I was at college, and again on the farm, and again in the Army. Engines become 'addicted' to EASYSTART, and often, once used, will not start without it. At all. I'm thinking this may be part of the problem.
Click to expand...

Engines becoming addicted to easy start is a myth

I used easy start (recomended by engine manufacturer) in my old truck with a 220 hp Cummins engine for the full 5 years that I owned it. Mainly to save the starter motor.

earlier Cummins engines had a pump fitted to pump the stuff into the engine whilst cranking.

I owned a Transit with a York diesel engine and Ford fitted a pump and canister on the dash to aid starting.
 
It can clean things cos it burns so hot and violently, so if you've got a clapped out old engine that relies on carbon build up to keep its compression up and you use it for any length of time before you fix it you may have problems starting it due to lower compression! Then you still have to use it even after you fixed the initial problem hence the term addicted! But in reality it has to be pretty knackered for it to be an issue.
 
I've had probs with a boat engine recently, sounds very similar, that was contaminated fuel, sniff of easy start it'd go and run fine, hot start fine, but just would not cold start. Proved it by getting a gallon of fresh diesel and connecting it straight to the filter inlet priming it enough to flush the old stuff out, then it started first time every time:)
 
Right....

Fuel coming to injectors when cranked over

Drained tank today and put 15 ltrs of fresh diesel in

New lift pump was knackered so fitted another new one

Gave it just short of a quarter of a turn on the pump to give it more fuel.

Still a little down on power

Lift pump working ok and bled filter.

Ticks over at 750 rpm

Small bubbles in leak off pipes but not much

Still wont start even when just switched off, wont even kick

Baffled:confused::confused:

Could be injector pump perhaps:confused:
 
landowner said:
Mine does:mad:

Problem somewhere, I'll look at stop solenoid tomorrow for a start (scuse the pun):)
Click to expand...

the glow plug system needs a good check, Pulling the glow plugs is only way to be sure the tip heats up. Easy start will burn/ruin glow plugs.

Is not factory idle 700-750 RPM? turn you ideal speed screw up a bit. and that would be at operating temp
 
Thor1950 said:
the glow plug system needs a good check, Pulling the glow plugs is only way to be sure the tip heats up. Easy start will burn/ruin glow plugs.

Is not factory idle 700-750 RPM? turn you ideal speed screw up a bit. and that would be at operating temp
Click to expand...

Ticks over at 750 rpm, not glow plugs cause it wont start even if you stop it when hot and try and restart it immediately:)
 
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