300tdi wont run below 600rpm

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At last, progress. Of a sort!

Progress yes, quite pleased that it isn't the bio causing problems

Wouldn't start again after tea or outside Halfrauds, went to swap a torx bit that my brother broke, no problem, new one free of charge, lifetime gaurantee honoured no quibbles,, Oh and I've had them at least five years no receipt :)

At least now I have a long list of what it isn't:rolleyes::)
 
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Not had chance to take the security cover off the pump yet but definately sure now that it's an electrical problem.

Long steep hill tonight so switched her off and then just gave the engine a nudge by lifting the clutch for a split second and she started immediately.

Did it again and same, only needed to kick the engine over and the rev counter went from zero to tickover without a problem

Might try drilling bolts out tomorrow if its any warmer:)
 
Well got it sorted........:cool:

Changed the injector pump for an earlier one that has no security on it, I used the stop control out of my pump so the injector pump must have been worn out and not anything else.

New cam belt and pulleys and a new crank oil seal while I had it to bits.

Running great now starts on the button and plenty of power, more than before so the pump must have been on its way out for a while.

Got my Disco back:D

Thank you to everyone for the tips and advice
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I'm waiting for some flack on how I did the cambelt but its my way and it works.
Need three sockets and three bars and three arms though:D

I did wonder .. but as I've not done mine yet, I didn't feel qualified to say anything! ;)
 
I did wonder .. but as I've not done mine yet, I didn't feel qualified to say anything! ;)
Problem was that the belt would not fit over the wheels and pulleys even with the tensioner pulley slackened right off.

So what I did was this (similar to when I did the 200 and 300 last year).

Leave the injector pump pulley bolts done up for now and the drill bit in there.
Line the crank up and check slot on flywheel underneath bellhousing.

Feed belt on to crank pulley holding crank still with socket and bar.

Next is the cam pulley, back it off from its mark (clockwise) about a cambelt notch or two .
Feed cambelt over cam pulley and then tighten anticlockwise with socket to tighten belt between crank pulley and cam pulley.

Cam pulley should be on its mark again now, if not do it again.

Check crank is still in position.

Next is the pump pulley, remove the drill bit and turn the pump pulley clockwise a bit like you did with the can pulley.

Feed belt over pump pulley and tighten anticlockwise and reinsert drill bit.

The belt should now slip over the adjuster pulley with ease.

Recheck craank position.

Loosen three bolts on pump pulley.

Adjust belt with torque wrench and secure the pulley by tightening nut or allen bolt whichever it is.

Tighten three pump pulley bolts.

Recheck crank position.

Remove drill bit from pump pulley

Wind engine over till lines all match up again (twice)

Reinsert drill bit into pump pulley

Check crank position and cam pulley position (they should all line up)

Slacken off three bolts on pump pulley

Readjust the cam belt tension (you know how by now)

Check crank position and cam position and tighten three bolts on pump pulley.

Should be all done now:)
 
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