300tdi waste gate
- Thread starter markSX
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aaronmorris
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I had the exact same problem on my last 90, I didn't know the size either so just bought an assorted pack of e clips off ebay for a couple of quid which did the job.
Do you happen to have a link to the set you brought ?
aaronmorris
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Will try and find it, Although it was about a year ago so link may have expired.
aaronmorris
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This is what I bought.
E CLIPS CIRCLIP SNAP RING CLIP 28 pc ASSORTMENT | eBay
E CLIPS CIRCLIP SNAP RING CLIP 28 pc ASSORTMENT | eBay
Thanks Arron.
A cheap fix but a few hours work getting the turbo off to get to it.
I changed the injection pump last weekend and it went like a rocket for two days, then this happened.
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hmm, i might be wrong, but i think you can get to it with your fingers.. bit faffy though
I can touch it but can't pull the arm back on.
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you should be able to close the wastegate to get it closer.
tried pliers? or if you connect an airline to the actuator at 15psi it will make it move down and you should be able to get it on... maybe
might be worth a try before taking all off
tried pliers? or if you connect an airline to the actuator at 15psi it will make it move down and you should be able to get it on... maybe
might be worth a try before taking all off
you should be able to close the wastegate to get it closer.
tried pliers? or if you connect an airline to the actuator at 15psi it will make it move down and you should be able to get it on... maybe
might be worth a try before taking all off
That's got to be worth trying first, thanks.
aaronmorris
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haigy
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Any pics or a how to guide.what you pulled or pushed mines got power just feels bit laggy top end Nd 5th gear is a no no for power
First thing to do is check all the hoses from the turbo to inter-cooler, from inter-cooler to inlet, it's often a split hose that gives low power.
Sometimes the waste gate sticks open, or the actuator arm falls off due the the C clip rusting away, but you'll need to remove the turbo to do these.
Not a hard job and it should take a couple of hours to remove and refit.
I'm afraid I didn't take any photos as the battery is flat on my camera.
Sometimes the waste gate sticks open, or the actuator arm falls off due the the C clip rusting away, but you'll need to remove the turbo to do these.
Not a hard job and it should take a couple of hours to remove and refit.
I'm afraid I didn't take any photos as the battery is flat on my camera.
haigy
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Ive checked all the pipes on mine and even the boost pipe round back of engine and still same.so may bite the bullet and whip the turbo off
RichardH
Active Member
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+1
Mine fell off in 3 bits but at least I know why that side of the engine was always covered in oil.
RichardH
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This is stuck actuator arm on mine when I removed the turbo.
A 16mm spanner fits perfectly to give it a twist and free it up. Mine released instantly which was really annoying given the amount of work involved in getting it on the bench!
This is mine back on.
It 'might' be possible to get to it without taking the manifold off. I think I had the alternator off as well in the photo so it look like there's loads of room but there isn't.
A 16mm spanner fits perfectly to give it a twist and free it up. Mine released instantly which was really annoying given the amount of work involved in getting it on the bench!
This is mine back on.
It 'might' be possible to get to it without taking the manifold off. I think I had the alternator off as well in the photo so it look like there's loads of room but there isn't.
Last edited:
Lee Jackson
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How do you know what length the actuator arm should be? I've just bought a used turbo and I now have a black smoke issue.
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Check that it is moving freely first ...
Once that is OK, check the wastegate rod pulls in a straight line onto the arm - I've seen at least 2 that were misaligned and would jam...
This can be fixed by loosening the bolts around the compressor housing and tapping it very gently into line...
If all that is good, then its down to adjustment of the rod length, make it longer to waste boost earlier...You can do this by trial and error, but having a boost gauge helps ...
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