300TDI EDC Auto starting problems

ah yes sorry i thought you had a manual pump conversion. I would look at the maf sensor next.

and the lift pump

I have an EDC Auto and have noticed that recently its a bit sluggish.

Its had a full service and the sedimentor cleaned, but when on motorways it struggles up to 70 and any kind of incline sees the speed reduce, even with a bit more throttle, even the kick down doesn't seem to increase the speed until the road starts to level out.

The only thing I have not changed is the Lift pump.

Do you think it could be that? I thought Lift pumps either work or don't work, not get worn and reduce the flow.

lack of fuel pulls back the timing which will make a diesel very very sluggish but not smoke so much.

Proper diesel diagnostics dictate you start by making sure there is sufficient fuel supply.

Confirm this first, then we can work through the sensors

I Guess what your saying is change the lift pump and see if that makes a difference.

I wouldn't have thought lack of fuel is the issue when its only getting around 21/22mpg

Lack of fuel makes a huge difference to mpg.

If the pump is working harder to draw fuel, it will take longer to prime up each stroke to supply each injector, when the pressure is finally reached, it triggers the injector break pressure too late, causing incorrect timing, and as the stroke pressure is not as high as it should be, the injection pattern is effected, causing less than complete combustion.

Brian S said:

I Guess what your saying is change the lift pump and see if that makes a difference.

I wouldn't have thought lack of fuel is the issue when its only getting around 21/22mpg

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my auto is doing my nut in at the mo sound similar to yours ok on flat ground no guts on the long climbs. mine is none edc so im gonna try changing the lift pump. On the last run out i did 200 miles on a full tank witch cant be right can it?

I get 485 miles from 1st click to light on. Mixed driving.

I bought mine 4 weeks ago! Got it home had a proper look around so say had 12 months MOT on it with no advisories (bo@@oks)

I made a list of mot failures and what should of been advisories

Took it back and made him do all the work!!

That was a trade seller though!!

Hope you get it sorted

Cheers Webbs

Webbs82 said:

I bought mine 4 weeks ago! Got it home had a proper look around so say had 12 months MOT on it with no advisories (bo@@oks)

I made a list of mot failures and what should of been advisories

Took it back and made him do all the work!!

That was a trade seller though!!

Hope you get it sorted

Cheers Webbs

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Hurrah !!! Strike one for the customer! Well done Webbs.


Dave

Mudron said:

I get 485 miles from 1st click to light on. Mixed driving.

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wow thats a big difference do you think its just the pump ? have change filter,cleaned sedimenter.

The trouble is, traders hide behind rough sounding, slightly smokey diesels as it being (characteristic old diesel stuff)....... "its done 200 million miles but its normal to be under powered and smoke a lot"
Its complete rubbish, I regularly see polish cars (older diesel tech like the 300/200 tdi's etc) with over 300k.

I think you can test the lift pump, I saw a guide on here somewhere, they are dirt cheap to buy and so easy to fit.

Lift pump was my next angle of attack. Its working well enough to fill up the fuel filter and squirt diesel in my eye, out of the bleed screw hole. That was on the hand priming lever when I changed the fuel filter.

Does your Check Engine light come on with the ignition and go off once the engine is started? Is it possible that it is in limp home mode? Even if the light behaves as expected it could have been rewired to hide a fault.

I had a temp sensor fault on mine and could feel the power loss on the straight but was dangerously slow on any incline. I pulled the EDC temp sensor plug off the top of the head as a temp fix. A tell-tale sign was that when the engine started it revved briefly before idling normally which was a sure sign that the light was about to come on.

Mine does do the rev slightly when it starts.

No light on and had in plugged in by the local idependent Land Rover specialist and its coming up with no faults at all. He also streamed live data from the sensors and said they were coming in ok. The only issue was that the two engine speed sensors were reading slightly different values, which went away when the injection timing was reset.

Check the fuel supply. Can't check anything else until that is ok'd.

Fuel starvation won't throw up any codes.

Mudron said:

I get 485 miles from 1st click to light on. Mixed driving.

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I filled it up a couple of weeks ago (£125) and its now done 413 miles and is just under 1/4 on the guage, so maybe not far off yours.

My estimate was based on £50 fills giving me around 170 miles.

£50 = about 8 gallons
170 divided by 8 = 21.25

not a lot when some people show off with claims of nearer 30mpg

I think I am getting 27mpg average. Based on mixed driving. I bought it doing 24mpg with the decat and egr delete. I gave the auto box a full service, pumped the tyres to the correct pressure and dumped a cheap fuel cleaner through it and that has brought it up to 27mpg average.

I think with a full service, zx1 treatment and (hopefully) a chipped ecu I should be able to coax it to 29-30mpg average. That would be great for a 2055kg auto 4x4, but im very happy with 27, better than expected.

Slightly off topic to the OP but you get the drift, 21mpg is a bit low so deff' a problem some where.

That is very impressive. Mine managed 21mpg on the last tank full. Not sure what she is doing on this tank post servicing but I suspect there is an economy improvement if not a power improvement.

Spoke to the seller (trader) and he said to bring it back to him on friday and he will get his mechanic to look at it. Seeing as its under warranty it will go back for repair work.

Thanks for the advice though people I will pass it on when I drop the car to him. I fully intend to ask for it to be fixed and the issues it should have failed on also be rectified or a partial refund to what the vehicle was actually worth in its current condition.