- Posts
- 16,475
It is from the block casting process.....Oooh nasty. There's obviously not a lot worse than your old rusty rear core plug weeping rusty water!Potential catastrophe with a 300Tdi. What purpose does it serve? Access? From casting?
300 Tdi Rebuild
- Thread starter Al2O3
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
That's worth replacing while I'm on then. Are they just an interference fit?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
yes clean hole apply some loctite stud lock to the outer edge of plug ,then using a socket slightly smaller han the inner diameter tap it home with the edge slightly below block surface, pressure on the center of plug makes outer edge/rim of plug push against the sides of hole
- Posts
- 16,475
I'd do all of them if you are going to do them at all....
There is one on the rear, 3 down the side and one under the water pump housing....
Using a drift, hammer one side of the plug to rotate it round, then pull it out with some pliers.
Clean the aperture with some emery paper or similar
Then using a bit of RTV sealant, bearing lock or stud/thread lock around the rim of the new core plug....put it in the aperture, then either using a large socket that fits the core plug rim (idealy - I used a large socket that fit the inside of the plug as best as possible) and tap the plug home. they are an interference fit, and the sealant helps to ... well...seal it! Some get away without the need for sealant, but it is best to use it in anycase. The plug should sit just recessed into the block.
The one above is the one behind the water pump....the one below is the rear core plug...
And the 3 down the side.....
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
Ok, James. That sounds good. As I said earlier, lots to learn. I'm sure I'll have loads of questions as I go along.
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
I take it they are all the same diameter and so the same part number?I'd do all of them if you are going to do them at all....
There is one on the rear, 3 down the side and one under the water pump housing....
Using a drift, hammer one side of the plug to rotate it round, then pull it out with some pliers.
Clean the aperture with some emery paper or similar
Then using a bit of RTV sealant, bearing lock or stud/thread lock around the rim of the new core plug....put it in the aperture, then either using a large socket that fits the core plug rim (idealy - I used a large socket that fit the inside of the plug as best as possible) and tap the plug home. they are an interference fit, and the sealant helps to ... well...seal it! Some get away without the need for sealant, but it is best to use it in anycase. The plug should sit just recessed into the block.
The one above is the one behind the water pump....the one below is the rear core plug...
And the 3 down the side.....
- Posts
- 16,475
Yep..... ERC4996
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
the ones you worry about are like your rear erc4996, 1 at the rear 3 down the side 1 at the front but i wouldnt worry about that yet as it can be done with engine in situ
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
ERC4996
Got it!
Another excellent evening's tuition. Thank you gents
Got it!
Another excellent evening's tuition. Thank you gents
- Posts
- 16,475
No probs, thats what makes LZ the best LR forum - the knowledge, help, advice and friendship.....many of us (me included) may have given up on LR ownership if it wasn't for the help on here.!!!
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
Absolutely!
You might have the basic skills to do a job like this, but the first time you do it it is a massive learning curve. I'm sure it would be one full of expensive, time consuming and enthusiasm draining mistakes without the support from a forum like this. It's awesome really!
- Posts
- 802
- Location
- Colchester
An army mechanic I know says they use a 15mm long socket on an extension bar to line clutches up.
- Posts
- 16,475
Super easy then!?!
That's what I do too. Easy-peasy and dirt cheap.
raywin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,808
- Location
- North Yorkshire
That's what I used, But don't be deceived and do it quickly it can't be stressed enough how frustration it is struggling with the engine on the crane trying to get the input shaft into the clutch plate and pilot bearing that are just fractionally out of line.
Best possible alignment tool is an old input shaft which you put into the pilot bearing through the clutch plate and then carefully tighten the clutch cover up, but of course not everyone has one.
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
Cheers gents. Someone is kindly donating me an alignment tool.
Got home about 5.30 and bolts had arrived. Very light drizzle, but the forecast for Saturday is poor anyway so thought I'd give it a go putting it on the stand.
Carefully worked around loosening the spring plate bolts which came off easily.
The flywheel bolts were VERY tight and turned out to have a boat load of loctite (or similar) on them
As you can see I had the engine sat on wood with the crane still just holding it for safety. Turning the bolts just rotated the engine I had to get one of my sons out to stand on the engine to add more weight. Giving the end of the breaker bar a sudden jerk seemed to work well to break the loctite.
Clutch plate still looked ok, but it has done 75k so will be going.
This doesn't look good. What has happened here? Could this have happened when I was separating the box? I did rock it back and forth a bit.
It was a bit of a leap of faith releasing the crane, once the stand was bolted up.
A mate down the street walked past with his dog and came back with a pair of steel capped boots. I put them straight on
Pulled it all down the drive to the garage and just had a 50mm step to get it up.
Levers are great
That's it, in the garage ready for the strip down on Saturday whether it's raining or not.
This is the bolt on end of the engine stand.
Got home about 5.30 and bolts had arrived. Very light drizzle, but the forecast for Saturday is poor anyway so thought I'd give it a go putting it on the stand.
Carefully worked around loosening the spring plate bolts which came off easily.
The flywheel bolts were VERY tight and turned out to have a boat load of loctite (or similar) on them
As you can see I had the engine sat on wood with the crane still just holding it for safety. Turning the bolts just rotated the engine
I had to get one of my sons out to stand on the engine to add more weight. Giving the end of the breaker bar a sudden jerk seemed to work well to break the loctite.Clutch plate still looked ok, but it has done 75k so will be going.
This doesn't look good. What has happened here? Could this have happened when I was separating the box? I did rock it back and forth a bit.
It was a bit of a leap of faith releasing the crane, once the stand was bolted up.
A mate down the street walked past with his dog and came back with a pair of steel capped boots. I put them straight on
Pulled it all down the drive to the garage and just had a 50mm step to get it up.
Levers are great
That's it, in the garage ready for the strip down on Saturday whether it's raining or not.
This is the bolt on end of the engine stand.
Last edited:
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
I don't know why those pictures aren't showing up. When I click the edit button they are there.
neilly
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,000
- Location
- Oxfordshireness
What pictures?? the ones in post #177 or #176??
Cheers
Cheers
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
Post 176, can you see them?
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,769
- Location
- doncaster
Yes Al WE can see them !
