300 Tdi Rebuild

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Saint.V8 said:
Sorry I don't know the specific dims.

I just took the pipe, wrapped some tape round it, tried it in the hole until it was a good snug fit, then did the same a bit further up the tube so once the first part is snug in the spigot bush, it was snug in the friction plate splines.....it was a case of ad a few wraps of tape, try it in the hole, add some more, try again...oops too much remove a layer until I had got it pretty close and snug.
Click to expand...
Champion. I'll do the same. :D Lots to learn, but I'm looking forward to it. Looking forward to a refreshed engine too!
 
neilly said:
I have heard broom handle works as a good substitute, however do not tell your missus you had to chop the end off.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Needed shortening anyway ;) I've remembered an aluminium tube, of a similar diameter, I kept from an old roller blind. Got a few things to try :)
 
Al2O3 said:
Sounds like a top tip. Approximately what diameter, can you remember? I've got some 22mm copper pipe and duct tape :D
I'll hopefully be taking the clutch off tomorrow. I've ordered some M10 and M8 bolts which should arrive tomorrow. All going well, I'll get it on the engine stand and in to the garage ready for the strip down.
Click to expand...
I used a double depth socket, the outside diameter was 22.12mm and that fitted the new spigot bush nicely, I used adhesive aluminium tape to increase the diameter of other end of the socket to fit the clutch (using trial and error).
 
Kwakerman said:
I used a double depth socket, the outside diameter was 22.12mm and that fitted the new spigot bush nicely, I used adhesive aluminium tape to increase the diameter of other end of the socket to fit the clutch (using trial and error).
Click to expand...
Cheers, Kwakerman. Another nifty idea to have up my sleeve.

More thoughts.
It's amazing how time flies. My clutch fork did the old punch through the pivot cup trick, I thought about 5 years ago. Looked up the invoice and it was back in July 2007 :eek:
The clutch fork looks new in the picture, but it's 10yrs old. the part number is a G suffix FTC2957G I'll look it up and see if it is one of the strong ones. It would have had about 105K miles on the clock about then, so the current clutch has done 75K. I might as well change that too. And the release bearing?
 
Al2O3 said:
The clutch fork looks new in the picture, but it's 10yrs old. the part number is a G suffix FTC2957G I'll look it up and see if it is one of the strong ones.
Click to expand...

If you mean a HD version clutch fork, does it have the welded plate over it? if not then it is only the plain jane version.

Cheers
 
While the engine is out, it is best to replace the parts that will seldom see the light of day again......release arm, release bearing, slippers, staple, plastic slave rod clip on the release arm.....you could even go the whole hog and do the clutch, the release arm pivot and rod.
 
Saint.V8 said:
While the engine is out, it is best to replace the parts that will seldom see the light of day again......release arm, release bearing, slippers, staple, plastic slave rod clip on the release arm.....you could even go the whole hog and do the clutch, the release arm pivot and rod.
Click to expand...
a good time to look at the rear core plug
 
jamesmartin said:
a good time to look at the rear core plug
Click to expand...
Steady on, James. Titter ye not at my engine problems. ;)

Saint.V8 said:
While the engine is out, it is best to replace the parts that will seldom see the light of day again......release arm, release bearing, slippers, staple, plastic slave rod clip on the release arm.....you could even go the whole hog and do the clutch, the release arm pivot and rod.
Click to expand...

I'll have to look some of those up. Slippers! o_O
 
Al2O3 said:
What does a poorly rear core plug look like? :eek:
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This was mine.....

460.jpg


540.jpg


550.jpg


Doesn't look too bad from the outside (aside from the water leak and rust marks) but on the inside it was rusted to heck and held up to the light you can clearly see the perferations!
 
jamesmartin said:
nope:) ,
Click to expand...
Damn, it's not funny then. :(

When the fork went (10 yrs ago :eek:) I got the local LR Indi to replace it and told them to do the clutch while in there. This is the list of parts:
rear main oil seal
rear main oil seal gasket
spigot bush
clutch kit
release arm
clutch fork cup
clutch staple
 
Last edited:
Saint.V8 said:
This was mine.....

460.jpg


540.jpg


550.jpg


Doesn't look too bad from the outside (aside from the water leak and rust marks) but on the inside it was rusted to heck and held up to the light you can clearly see the perferations!
Click to expand...

Oooh nasty. There's obviously not a lot worse than your old rusty rear core plug weeping rusty water! :eek: Potential catastrophe with a 300Tdi. What purpose does it serve? Access? From casting?
 
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